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This section features excerpts from Booth’s journals that highlight his travel experiences and various means of transportation on his way to, from, and within the Ottoman Empire during his three missions spanning the years 1898 to 1928.

First Trip from Utah to Asia Minor[1]

The following excerpts describe the long and arduous journey Booth undertook in 1898 during his first mission to the Ottoman Middle East, which originated in Alpine, Utah, and took him east across the United States by horse and buggy, train, and boat. He then boarded a steamship that crossed the Atlantic to Liverpool, England, where he stayed a certain number of days touring, meeting with relatives, and sightseeing. He then went by train across England to London, where he obtained his visa for the Ottoman Empire. From there he went to mainland Europe via steamship to Rotterdam, Holland, and crossed Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Romania by train. From Bucharest, Romania, he boarded a steamship across the Black Sea to Constantinople, capital of the Ottoman Empire. He stayed in Constantinople for almost three months until he received orders in December 1898 to finally travel inland to begin his proselytizing mission in his first assigned area of Aintab. This entailed traveling by steamship from Constantinople to Alexandretta on the Mediterranean Coast, where he disembarked and secured horse and carriage passage to Aleppo in mid-December 1898. There he stayed with an Armenian convert family (that of Shil Hagopian) through Christmas and into the New Year. He then traveled by horse and carriage inland to Aintab in today’s southern Turkey, where he finally met his mission president (President Hintze) and reached his first assigned area after five months of travel. These excerpts are of special interest in that they clearly lay out the ways missionaries traveled in the late nineteenth century and how they often stopped along the way to meet with friends and relatives, sightsee, and experience the broader world around them. These were dramatic, life-changing experiences for missionaries that often confronted them with different ways of looking at the world.

August 4, 1898 (Thursday) [Alpine, UT]

Yesterday I met with the people of Alpine, Utah, who assembled soon after 5 p.m. at the meeting House Block in honor of my departure for a mission to Turkey. Picnic and a most delightful Program were enjoyed and the party ending in a good spirited dance. Many of my friends came from Am. Fork, and swelled the numbr to an emense crowd. Hand shaking and farewells and kisses were numerous and the day of my departure came with peculiar feelings.

Settled up <or turned> my accounts and left them with my Brother in Law C. C. Hackett in the Store for collection. The committe turned over to me more than $114.00 besides several dollars which my friends donated privately and with this amount added to some given by my Bros. and sisters, made nearly $150.00 for which I thank the Lord and my friends. Took dinner with “our folks” at my sisters (Maggie Hackett.)

Then came an hour of the sweetest sorrow I have experienced for many a day. I retired to a spot in the old field where I was wont to roam in childhood and there in the shade of the willows and the oaks I bent my knees in humble supplication to the God of Heaven and dedicated my all to Him, and to the service of His Zion on the earth. The parting with my loved ones was hard for a few moments and the sweet love of Family and friends seemed more holy than ever before.

At 3 p.m. I left my Home in company with my wife, C C Hackett & Elder Levon A Sarkis[2] in a Buggy and arrived in Salt Lake City at about 7.15. Mrs Booth & I stayed at Mrs Elizabeth Moyles[3] at 80, Third St. It rained some on our Journey to the city and cooled the atmosphere to a pleasant temperature.

August 5, 1898 (Friday) [Salt Lake City, UT]

The day was spent in preparing for our long trip. Called[4] <to say Good Bye> to several of my friend whose kindness was shown in liberal donations to me to aid me on my way. Bro Hyrum Davis gave me a Doc. & Cov. Hymn Book and Ready Reference. Mrs Jams Daves $2.00 and J. C. Edwards of Z.C.M.I. a pair of shoes. The Lord has abundantly blessed me financially in the Preperation of this misson and I Pray that his Holy Spirit will not cease to accompany me while I labor in His vinyard. Paid $66.35 for my tickett to Liverpool Eng.

Bot a satchel, and several articles such as comb, brush, pockett Book, this Journal, fountain Pen etc, which cost about $10.00 or $12.00.

Was set apart for my mission by Elder B. H. Roberts (see Blessing) etal [et al.]. Good instructions were given to the departing missionaries about 14 in all, by Angus M. Cannon, J. G. Kimball, Apostle A. H. Lund[5] and Brigham Young.

I was placed in charge of a company of 10 Elders as follows.

J. W. Booth, Alpine, Utah
Jeppa Monson, St. Charles, Ida
F. G. Ralph, Hyrum
D. N. White, Ogden
Henry Catmull, Idaho Falls
Jos. M. Reader, Brigham
Geo. C. Wood, Willard
J. F. Merrill, Brigham
John Jones, Woodland
Levon A. Sarkis, Aintab, Turkey

The remainder of the company will go via of D. & R. G.[6]

August 6, 1898 (Saturday) [crossing Utah and Wyoming via train]

At 7 a.m. I bid Farewell to my wife and a few of my friends at the Depot and boarded the O.S.L. Ry[7] for the most important trip of my life thus far. I can scarcely describe my feelings. The kindness of my many friends in assisting me and their warm heartedness has brought forth a flood of tears but as we wheeled away through the pleasant morning air and the boys began to sing some of the soul inspiring Hymns. We all partook of cheerfulness and the day passed pleasently away. At Rawlings Wy. I met Senator F. J. Cannon[8] who was also on his way to N. Y. Then into the night we rode and a restless sleep kept us from further viewing the passing cenery.

August 7, 1898 (Sunday) [crossing Nebraska and Iowa by train]

The next day, Aug 7, brought us through the famous corn fields of Neb and at 4.45 p.m. we arrived at Omaha a city of 140,000 which has sprung up since the Pioneers first settled a few miles north of the present sight and called it Winter Quarters. Less than 34 hours has placed us more than 1000 miles from our homes—the distance traversed by the founders of Utah who spent more than three months on the toilsom journey with ox teams and hand carts etc. They went along with their slow train, singing and sighing and whistling and weeping for they saw enough to call forth a variety of these emotions. They sang for their hopes were in Zion’s future. They sighed, for their present condition was a sad one. They whistled for the air they breathed was the most liberty ladon they had enjoyed for years. They wept for they lost their loved ones by the side of the dreary way.

Had we weept bitterly all along this old time route, we came so swiftly that a tear would scarcely fall for each of the countless supalchers that marke the path and are hidden beneath the waving grass and flowers. We put up at the Franks Hotel and visited the Trans Mississippi Exposition until about 10 oclock at night, wrote a letter to my wife at home.

August 9, 1898 (Tuesday) [crossing Midwest by train]

Day Break brought us into Ill. and while gliding down the slope from De Kalb to Geneva I was permitted to ride with the engineer and fireman. It was a great sight to sit up there and look down on the round back of the Grand old Iron Horse as he strained every nerve to make a record for speed. We run the distance 23 miles and came in 6 minutes ahead of time. At about 8. oclock A M we reached Chicago and made a short stay of a few hours in that Metropolis of the West. After securing our ticketts to Philadelphia and taking a view of the city and lake from the top room of a 17 or 18 story building B The Fisher Block B we left on the Baltimore & Ohio RR for the east. The journey was uneventful. The scenery was pleasing and especially the sight of the waves of Lake Michigan as they came rolling in as if to salute us with their white foamed faces dashing along the beech. Passing through Ill & Indiana we again came to evening and the sight of the Sunset in Ohio will long be remembered. The mighty orb seemed doubble size and as red as the roses of Zion.

August 10, 1898 (Wednesday) [arrived in Washington, DC, by train]

We woke to find a refreshing rain which lasted while we run through West Verginia and along the Maryland line past Cumberland. Arrived in Washington about 2 p.m. and found a very nice resting place at the Hotel run by Mrs Bradley on 227, 1st st N.W. Bro Sarkis went on to visit some relatives in Bridgeport Conn. Viewed the Capitol an hour or so when we retired for a good rest, the first since leaving Omaha. Wrote a letter to my wife.

August 11, 1898 (Thursday) [Washington, DC, to Philadelphia, PA]

We secured a guide for which we paid $5.00, and took in the sights in a great Hurry, Fords Theater, the City Hall, the Pention building the White House, Treasury, Washingtons monument, Smithsonian Institute, National Museum Capital & Library building were among the great sights. Comments are unnessecary. It was simply grand. Washington is a city of beauty order and cleanliness. At 3 p.m. we took the B & G for Philadelphia where we arrived at 6 p.m. This is a fast train indeed. Down one of those slopes I travled the distance of 2 4/7 miles without taking a single breath. It seems almost incredable but it is a fact. We put up at the Green’s Hotel in Philadelphia. <Met Utah elders laboring here.>

August 12, 1898 (Friday) [Philadelphia, PA]

Visited Independance Hall and secured a relic from the old frame work of on which the Bell hung in 1776. Wrote letters to my wife and to Miss May Whitly of Alpine.

Made all arrangements for our departure across the mighty deep and then was surprised to receive a letter from Bro Sarkis stating that it was impossible for him to go with us on account of recent events in turkey which he has not explained. He was over in Conn. and sent me $15.00 and asked me to take my effect from his trunk and send it to him.

I counceled with the rest of our company and they thought best to telegraph to him and urge him to come. I did so and am now awaiting his reply.

We were by joined <before going> on the vessle by others from Utah.

Prof J A Widtsow[9] Logan
Mrs J A Widtsow
Miss Lula Gates[10] Provo
Jos W Smith Snowflake Arizona
Jos Boyce Cottonwood
Clarance M Cannon S L City.

We were driven to the wharf on the Deleware River between 6 & 7 oclock p.m. and were assigned our rooms on Board the steamship “Waesland”. Having to unpack the trunk and separate my clothing etc from those of Bro Sarkis I did not get on the ship until after dark. I wrote to Bro Sarkis, and put the letter in his trunk, stating that we were very sorry to have him leave us as we thought he had been persuaded to remain, by some of his relatives who had told him things that were not true regarding his country. I reminded him that he had been called by the proper authority and ought not to back out until the call was revoked by the same authority.

Wrote to C. C. Hackett Alpine. It rained hard while we were going on board.

August 13, 1898 (Saturday) [Cape May, NJ, across North Atlantic by steamship]

At 6.30 were tugged out into deep water and a good pilot steered us safely down through the Bay and left us off Cape May. He climbed down the side of the “Waesland” and into a little boat which took him onto a sailing Vessel. I wrote another letter to my wife and the Pilot took it ashore. The day passed off very pleasantly and the sea was calm. The gentle rocking of the vessel however and that “Kitchen fragrance” coming at short intervals in stiffling volumes made an impression on me that was more than mental.

I stood it until after dark when in spite of my own will <my> lips would not remain closed and I repeated over and over again that familliar “word of the sea” awhwhaw and pronounced with a gurglling accent.[11]

I retired early and was arroused about 9.30 oclock by the horrible cry of “Man over board.” It was a steerage passanger and belonged to another ship whose crew had been sent back to England after the sale disposal of their vessel in America. The life boat was lowered and a search made for the poor man out on the dark waves but no man could be found and he was left in that dark green undug sepulcher under the sea. His name was John Shaw of [blank]. The thoughts of leaving him was sad and his friends and crew were unwilling to start but had no controle in the matter.

August 15, 1898 (Monday) [across North Atlantic by steamship]

We were invited during the day by one of the passangers—a Mr Mason—to hold a meeting and explain some of the principals of our religion. The invitation was gladly accepted and it was decided that Elder J A Widstow would Preside and make such remarks as he felt best to do, and that Elder Jos. W. Smith make a historical explaination of the founding of our Church after which I was to speak on the restoration of the gosple from a scriptural standpoint. We sang, “Earth with her ten thousand flowers” “Guide us O thou Great Jehovah” & “Oh my Father Thou that dwellest.” Elder John Jones offered the opening prayer and the benidiction was pronounced by Elder Jos Boyce. It was a splendid meeting and the spirit of the Lord was with us.

August 19, 1898 (Friday) [across North Atlantic by steamship]

During the night the sea became a little rough and at about 2 oclock a.m. I arose and stood at the window for some time to watch the waves. Seeing them not so boistrous as to be alarming I retired again and left the port hole open—it had been closed by the stewar—but I thought fresh air was preferable. In a few minutes a boistrous wave came dashing up the side and <suddenly> poured into that window fill the berth in which Elder Ralph was sleeping. To say he arose from peaceful slumber in excited haste would be putting it mildly. It continued rather stormy most all day.

Before day break I went on deck to watch the rolling of the billows and to me it was a grand sight.

August 23, 1898 (Tuesday) [Queenstown, Ireland, to Liverpool, England, by steamship]

About 6.30 am we sailed into the bay at Queenstown and a few of the Passangers were taken to land on a Barque which came out to meet us. The wind blew from the north and it was very cold all morning. During the after noon the sun shone in splender from an almost cloudless sky and as we sailed the St Georges Channel I sat up on Deck and wrote a letter to the Deseret News. S.L. City. We retired to rest having sighted land once more. Ireland on the one hand and the shores of old England on the other we sailed in port toward Liverpool.

August 24, 1898 (Wednesday) [Liverpool]

Arived at the docks about 1 a m and remained in the ship till after Breakfast. We were met here by Elder Geo E. Carpenter who conducted us to the Office at 42 Islington Liverpool where we met Pres Jos W. McMurran and Elders Atawall Wooten and J. C. McFarlane. The reception they gave us was a hearty one. Soon after our arrival [we] were called together for the purpose of being instructed in regard to missionary work. We all spoke a few minutes each and were then given our final instructions by the Breathern at the office. Then came dinner, the best meal for two weeks and our appetites were ready to do justice to the occassion.

All in all it was a happy day. Eleven of us had our Photoes taken in a group. Elder Jones left us to go to his field of Labor in the Norwich Conference.

After supper we went out with the Elders and held an open air meeting on Islington square. Elders Thos. Bennet who had come over to met us from near Wigin, and Carpenter were the speakers. We had a good time and the spirit of Testimony was there with the Breathern. Wrote a letter to Mrs Booth.

August 25, 1898 (Thursday) [Liverpool]

The breatthern began to say Good Bye to each other and were off for their various fields of labor, having rec’d. their appointments which were published in the Millenial Star of this date.[12] Some of us spent and hour or two in sight seeing in and about the <Walker> Art Gallery.

At 2.35 I took the train in company with Elder Bennett, for Wigin, where I met Elder Joshua Hodson, his traveling companion. Had supper with them when they walked with me out to 562 Liverpool Road, Platt Bridge near Wigin, Lancashire. Eng. where lived one of my relatives Mrs. Alice Davis Mason, whose father, Wm Davis was my grandmother Edge’s brother. This Mrs Mason told me of other relatives in various parts of England. I learned from her many interesting little things regarding the early life my parents and my cousin Louis Davis.

They treated me very kindly and invited me to stay all night which I did. We talked till midnight and I learned also that my Grandmother Sarah Edge died on April 23 and was burried on the 26, 1873 at Bedford. She died in a work house on account of the unkindness of those who should have been her friends in her old age. Mr Thos & Mrs. M. have two sons Samuel aged 23 and Lewis several years younger but a nice lad. The rest of their children, 4, are dead.

August 26, 1898 (Friday) [Liverpool]

After a nice breakfast with these good people, Elder Hodsun called again for me & we walked over to Leigh, 7 miles where I met my aunt Alice Ditchfield sister to my father. She is now 82 years of age. Was born Mar 24, 1816 at Turton near Bolton. Aunt Alice was being cared for by very kind people Mr & Mrs Mathew E Bower on 3 Back King St. Leigh Road, Leigh Lancashire. We took dinner with these folks, and while here we met a Mr. Wm Houghton one of my fathers pupils of Kirk Hall Lane. Passing on we went down Bradshaw gate, into Chapel St. and on to Bedford the home of my parents which they left in 1857.

Went to the old house in which <they> last lived previous to their going to Utah. About 8 or 10 rods from the Cemetary gate, on the road to Leigh, there still stands behind a quaint old Hedge the same old two-story, slate-covered time worn brick building where lived and loved in gosple light the dear ones who have since then toiled for blessed comforts now enjoyed by me. Here too, there played among the grass and flowers the same dear boys and girls whose many an hour in later years were spent in making me <the> object of their care. John E., James D., Hannah, and Jennie were all the children my parents had while living here. I was granted permission by the lady of the house, a Mrs Grimshaw to look through and around about the place. I broak off a piece of the brick in the wall, a slice of the slate which covered the little kennel at the end and took some twigs from the Hedge as mementos of the sacred spot.[13]

I was loath to leave the dear old home—I felt it almost such—but leaving it I left behind some tears I could not bring away.

We visited the Cemetary and witnessed the funeral ceremonies of a young man interred with Church of Eng. rits. Obtained from Mr Fred Stockton, Registrar the following information from the records regarding some of my relatives who now sleep deep down beneath the unmarked sod. “John Edge, aged 17. died Nov. 24 & burried Nov 26 1866. Betty Parr <(my aunt)> aged 46. died May 14 & burried May 17 1870.” and also the same as I had learned from Mrs Mason last evening regarding my grandmother excepting the date of death which was recorded Apr 24.

I also visited the old office where my father kept the books of a coal company. His desk was still standing in the corner unused and delapidated. I split a piece of wood from it also for a relic. It was on Marsland Green. Among the old time “stagers” that remembered them (my parents) whome I met were Richard Rothwell John Knight, Mary Collier, Foulds, Samuel Grundy and Jos Nutter.

From here we went to Tyldesley and stayed all night with a family of saints named Thos. Williams. Having walked nearly 15 miles in our wanderings we appreciated the sweet repose. Their address is Thomas Williams. 33 Neanly St. Tyldesley Lancashire, Eng.

August 27, 1898 (Saturday) [Liverpool]

After Breakfast it began to rain again but we walked <2 mile> over to Atherton (Chow Bent) and found a Mrs Sarah J. Aldred at 54 Stanley St. She is my fathers half brother’s daughter about 50 years of age, and resembles my aunt Alice Ditchfield. I found the death card of Esther Sivesly Pilkington who died on Oct 9, 1890 at the age of 72 years. She was the wife of John Pilkington my fathers half Brother who was <some> 2 years older than his wife. This would show that he was born about 1816 about the same year that my aunt Alice was born. If this be the case it proves that she (Alice) was only half sister to my father, for John Pilkington was born before his mother Jane was married to my grandfather James Booth. Now if Alice who was the daughter of James Booth was born before his marriage with Jane then Alices mother must have died, and my father was the son of James and Jane Booth. This fact is new to the folks here as they have thought that my aunt Alice was the same relation to them as father was. She was no relation to John Pilkington except through his mother marrying Alice’s father after they both were born. I also met Miss Mary J. Pilkington, daughter of Thomas, who was the son of John Pilkington my half Uncle.

We had dinner and “Tea” with these folks and spent a most pleasant time. At 5.10 p.m. we bid fare well to my relatives and went to Wigan again passing near Hindley and through Ince. I was tired enough to appreciate the blessings of a nice comfortable room and a good bed. I have found out something of missionaries life in walking all this distance and bearing my testimonies to the people.

August 28, 1898 (Sunday) [Liverpool]

I went with Elders Bennett & Hodsen to the Hall which the Saints occupy, at 18 Hall gate, to put out the notice of their meetings, and then stroled a while through Mesnes Park. After dinner we attended meeting. There were but about a doz. in all present but we had a good meeting and the spirit of testimony was there. Nearly all the Saints present spoke. I did also. I went with the elders to supper at Bro Wm Johnsons and back to the hall were I & Bro. Bennett spoke again. From here <we> went on the Street and held a splendid meeting at the Markett. The Salvation Army were just ready to leave and as we stepped up the people surrounded us by the hundreds and gave us strict attention. We sang “Beautiful Zion.” Bro Bennett offered Prayer and then called upon Elder Hodson to lead out in speaking which he did, on the first Principals of the gosple. Then came my turn—the first Street Preaching of my life but I was humble, through the knowledge of my own weakness and the Lord blessed me abundantly. I never bore such a testimony before in my life and the crowd seemed eger to learn of <the> message we had to bear for at the close of the meeting they flocked about in great numbers to receive our tracts.[14] We left nearly 240 tracts and it seemed we did not have half enough.

August 29, 1898 (Monday) [Liverpool]

It rained most all day. Went with the boys up to Mr Kinleys shop where the meetings are held and they did some trading with him. I also bot an umberella for 2 shilling and 11 d.[15] and a pocket knife from Mr. Lace for 1 shilling. I gave Elder Hodson 10 shillings for a stove pipe hat. Read some in the Voice of Warning.[16]

August 30, 1898 (Tuesday) [Liverpool]

Took a walk with Bro Hodson to see some of their friends, a Mr & Mrs Lee who lived out of Wigan a mile north. On our return we visited a harvest field where the farmers were cutting & binding oats. There were nearly 10 hands and the machine was kept waiting more than half the time. After dinner I went to Leigh again and found my relative James Pilkington at 21 Organ St. Leigh. He is the son of John Pilkington my father’s half brother. His wife and 2 daughters Maria and Jennie aged respectively 24 and 20, and a son, James 14 <yrs>, composed his family.

In the evening, I went to see Richard Daniels, an old friend of my Parents. He had been to our home in Utah nearly 20 years ago and his hospitality seemed to have no limit in my behalf.

He and James Pilkington accompanied me through the interesting parts of town and we met several old people who knew my folks.

For curiosity, and on invitation I went with them to the “Club” (Liberal) and to the “Public House” but refused their “offers” in these places.[17]

August 31, 1898 (Wednesday) [Liverpool]

Arose very early and took a walk before breakfast after which Mrs Pilkington went with me to see some old people weaving silk, Thomas Heywood, and Thomas [blank]. They both knew my father in early days.

Called on Mr Daniels again and he took me to the old home of my mother when a young girl. The place is now a delapidated “Smythie.” I broke a piece of the old window pain for a relic. Many other places of interest were visited.

Joseph Booth in front of the Dick Mather Bridge, London, 1898. Courtesy of the Booth family.

At 10.45 a.m. I met Bro. Hodson who came over from Wigan and brought his Kodac along to get the photographs of some of these old places. I took him to “Dick Mathers Bridge”, the Home of my mother, the old House where my parents lived at the cemetary and the old office where my father worked at the “Pits” and then to Mrs. Pilkingtons again on Organ St. where she and Jennie and I stood in their back door while our Photoes were taken. After taking “tea” with them we bid farewell and were soon in Wigan again by train, making arrangements with Bro Hodson for (8) Eight pictures of each of the first four places named and two each of the last and of the old lamp post on the Markett (where I preached my first out door sermon). I left for Liverpool where I met Pres R. S. Wells[18] who had just returned from an extended trip through the Continent visiting the various conferances. Also met Elder J D Holther of Ogden Utah. Wigan is a city of about 65,000. Recd a letter from Bro Reynolds of Salt Lake City, Pres. Wells also rec’d one from Apostle A H Lund suggesting that I be sent to Haifa Palestine.[19]

Joseph Booth in front of his parents’ house in Bedford-Leigh, Lancashire, August 31, 1898. Courtesy of the Booth family.

September 1, 1898 (Thursday) [Liverpool]

<Recd a letter from my wife.> Went with Bro Wells to see the U.S. Consul about my Passport but could not obtain it until I get to London. Took a ride on the underground R. R. over to Berkenhead, riding under the Mersey River and came back on a boat. The tide was just going out. Went to the top of the Tower Building and obtained a nice view of Liverpool and the docks, river, and a countless array of boats and steamers plying their course to and frow along the harbors. Had a nice chat with a Mr Rose, keeper of the Tower Building, on religion. I gave him a tract and a Voice of Warning. Spoke in Testimony meeting at night L.D.S. Church.

September 3, 1898 (Saturday) [Liverpool]

The sad news was rec’d. at 42 Islington about 8 a.m. announcing the death of President Wilford Woodruff at Salt Lake City yesterday. The world has lost a great and good man—a Prophet of the Most High God. May the Lord comfort Zion in her hour of mourning.

Wrote a letter to my brothern at Provo. In the evening I went with Pres Wells and others of the Breathern and viewed some of the sight of this great city in the main part of the business center. All seemed hurry and worry and confusion. Met Elder Jed. Stringham at 42 Islington.

September 4, 1898 (Sunday) [Liverpool]

Fast day. Attended S.S. at the L.D.S. Hall on 15 Bittern St. Pres Wells and Pres Stringham, of the Liverpool conference, being present the School was turned into a testimony meeting, at which I also spoke.

Bro Stringham & I occupied the time in evening meeting at the Hall, after which We Held an open air meeting on St Georges Square, close to the Statue of Victoria. Elders Wells & Stringham were the speakers. Not more than 60 or 75 people composed the audience but a good impression seemed to be made on some of them. The few converts that are made among all these thousands of people prove that it is gleaning after the vintage is over.

September 5, 1898 (Monday) [Liverpool and Birmingham]

Made preparations for leaving Liverpool enrout for Turkey. At 11 a.m. Pres R. S. Wells, Elder Atawall Wooten and Pres Stringham laid their hands upon my head and gave me another blessing befor departing for my field of labor. Bro Wells lead in the prayer and I felt that the Lord would have respect unto their petitions in my behalf. Pres. Wells and Stringham accompanied me to the station (S. & N.W.) and at 12 oclock, noon, I took a very affectionate leaf of the brethern who wished me a pleasant and successful mission. Stopped off at Birmingham where I met Elders J. H. Paul Heber Smith, Robt Andersen, Ash, Clark, & Hunter.

In the evening I attended a lecture on “Utah & its people” by Bro. Paul accompanied by a series of View. Met, also, several of the saints and had a pleasant time. Stayed at the Conference House at 320 Summer Lane.

September 6, 1898 (Tuesday) [Birmingham and Bristol]

Visited around the City of Birmingham with Bro Hunter till noon. We went to the Art Gallary and the Public Library. In the latter place are more than 200,000 volumns and an average of 20,000 people go there to read daily.

After dinner and the kind entertainment of the Elders here I took the train for Bristol and found my way to 22 Goodhind St, the home of Bro John McCready and family where the Elders were making their Head Quarters of the Cheltenham Conference. Pres H. S. James gave me a most hearty welcom. I was plunged into happy rememberances of Bye gone days by the meeting of my dear old schoolmates J. W. Knight, Inez Knight and Jennie Brimhall, also Bro David Bogely— It seemed again like “Home sweet Home.” And what a glorious time we had. Elders Edward Pike and Geo H. Dansley were among the number of those present that evening. Bristol is a City of <nearly> 300,000 people but not altogether of a modern type. Saw antiquated buildings of curious workmanship still stand as monument of the long forgotten past. The L.D.S. are making many warm friends of late.

September 7, 1898 (Wednesday) [Bristol]

Just as we were sitting down to breakfast, Elders G. A. Mills and Louis Fayter came from Newton about 80 miles to the South West of Bristol, having walked the distance since Sunday for the purpose of attending the priesthood meeting to be held here soon. They were nearly worn out with their long journey but such a welcome as they received at the conference house was a warm one indeed.

After taking dinner with my friends “Will” and Inez and Jennie, at 30 Seymour Road off Stapleton Rd. Bristle, and later, meeting with Elders Frank S. Humphries & Thomas Nichols I went with the two latter and J. W. Knight and G. H. Dansley out to the Clifton Suspension Bridge, crossing that into Leigh Woods a most delightful retreat for the seeker of solitude. We sailed down the Avon River where John Cabot and his son left in 1497 for that memorable voyage—his discovery of America.[20] The <above> Bridge across this river is 280 ft high.

In the evening we held a meeting at the “Horse Fare” and preached to a very attentive audience of 50 or 75 people. Pres James asked me to lead out which I did but got hoarse and did not speak very long. He followed and gave a spirited discourse on the principals of the gosple. I believe we made some friends among them and a good spirit prevailed.

September 8, 1898 (Thursday) [Bristol]

Most of the Elders in the Conference fasted and I attended their Priesthood meeting held in their Hall at 68 Old Markett St. Very encouraging reports were given in and it was evedient that a great change his come, and is coming over the people. All present spoke and we had a time of rejoicing together.

Before meeting I went with Bro. F. G. Ralph to the station and there met Elder W J Mortimar of Provo, who is about to leave for Utah after a two years mission. I Bot a Picture of the “Bridge” and sent it to my wife by Bro. Mortimar. Went to the plunge bath.[21] Attended meeting at night in the Hall and listened to a number of the elders preach. A lively discussion ensued after the meeting.

September 9, 1898 (Friday) [London]

Sisters Knight and Brimhall came over and spent a few hours with us at the office and after a very pleasant time together the sad “Farewell” time came again. At 3 p.m. I took the train for another short trip on my journey. Bros Knight, Mortamer and Webb accompanied me to the station, the former giving me 5 shillings for a little missionary present. At 6 oclock I saw the city of London but only a small portion of it as I took the underground R. R. from Paddington station to Kings Cross and walked from there to 36 Penton St, Islington, about 1/2 mile. Here I met Elder W. E. Clark Pres. of the London Conference who took a short walk with me around the streets Past the “Angel” etc. Wrote a card to Pres. Wells.

September 10, 1898 (Saturday) [London]

Met my old school mate Bro “Fred” Saxey at “36.” Took a buss for 1 d and rode to St Pauls Cathedral which I visited a few minutes and then passed on to Sudgate hill, over the bridge that crosses the Thams and wandered down through the great markets to London Bridge where I stood in amazement at the trafic that crosses this structure. There was an average of one vehicle every two seconds passed as I timed them on the center of the bridge. From here I found my way to the famous London Tower which I also visited. At the outward appearance of this old historic place I was much dissapointed but the emence collections of By gone relics and trophies of war stored away inside were far beyond my expectations.

Crossed the Tower Bridge and walked back to the Pier at the London Bridge where I took boat and sailed up the river to Westminster. Viewed the grand edifice—The House of Parliament from the out side, and then passed on and entered the famous Westminster Abby but this visit was short and through not understanding its nature was not so interresting as it might have been otherwise.

After this I went through St James Park, passed the Buckingham Palace, up through Pall Mall and back up to the office on 36 Penton. I was very tired having walked nearly all day long but the interesting sights seemed to make me forget all else.

September 12, 1898 (Monday) [London]

Went with Bro Clark to get my Passport at the U.S. Embassy 123 Victoria St but could not get it until I obtained a letter of identification. We then visited again the Abbey and with more solomn mein I stepped over those worn out letters on the floor stones under which the dust of so many great and honored men and women sleep their silent lengthy slumber. Kings and Queens, Poets wariors statesmen have been interred beneath these time worne slabs of stone.

Here also have been crowned the heads of all the English Monarchs since Edward the Confessor till Queen Victoria. I then went to the art gallery and viewed the work of some of the worlds famous artists. Walked about Travalgar Square and then to the office again and went out with Elders A Saxey <Jr> and R. H. Hamblin on Highbury fields and held a meeting. We had a few opposers but they brought a larger crowd to hear our Testimonies although there seemed few in all the throng who felt inclined to hear or listen to our words. Bro Saxey and I were the speakers.

September 13, 1898 (Tuesday) [London]

Obtained sufficient identification through the kindness of Mr E. H. Trip and was then enable to procure my passport from Mr. Charles Hay U.S. Ambassador. Cost $2.00 Received a letter from Pres Wells stating that arrangements had been made for my journey on to Constantinople. While on my way to the Embassy I called once more to take a look at the Abbey and its wounderful monuments of the dead.

Sailed down the River to Swan Pier and found my way to the Turkish Consul and obtained his signature on my passport.

Wrote letters to Pres Wells, and my wife and attended another oud door meeting but I did not speak. Elders Hamblin & <B. W.> Sainsbury spoke.

September 14, 1898 (Wednesday) [London]

Spent a hour or so in St Pauls Cathedral again and read some of the history of that great edifice. Walked over to the Bank of Eng. and dow[n] Lombard St to take in the sights of that Center of ealth.

Aside from the reputation of this monied locality and a few elegantly polished marble pillars and granit walls about the place one is rather lead to think of an emmense rock barn when he sees the Bank, and of a narrow serpantine cow trail when he wanders down the crooked lane of Lombard. From here I went along the strand and down Holy well St where I bought a hand grip and a french testiment. Met Bro Mark Austin of Lehi Utah, at the office on Penton St.

September 15, 1898 (Thursday) [London]

Spent the main part of the day in Regent Park at the Zoological gardens. In the evening I attended the regular Thursday evening meeting of the Saints and listened to Elders Larkin <of Ogden> from the German mission and Pace of Beaver from the Nottingham Conference. After meeting I received a letter from Pres. Wells with an order for my ticket to Constantinople. Bo’t a giude, to day, of Palestine for 8 s. and read some in it. Met Elder Sears of St. George who is to go home soon. Read several letters on Mormonism in a paper from Tun Bridge Wells.

September 16, 1898 (Friday) [London to Rotterdam by steamship]

Obtained my ticket from Cook & Sons Co.[22] and after an—parting with new friends and old acquaintances I am now left alone with no <known and tried> friend but God to guide me on my journey across another Continant and another sea. As I now sit with my satchel for a stool and my knee for a writing desk in the great “Liverpool Station”—one of the largest in London—there come crowding in upon my soul such mingled and speachless emotions as I have never known before. Awaiting the train to carry me to the sea side whence the ship will bear me across to the old shores of Holland.

Just now it is 8.10 p.m. and 20 minutes more will see me off and away to tell my, nay God’s Story of love to another people far over the sea and the land.

Countless throngs of people are passing but no face is familliar and no hand has a clasp for me. It seems that my journey from home has been made up of “Farewells and Welcomes and Welcomes and Farewells” and now farewell once more to the land of my fathers, farewell, the Lord will provide the next welcome. He is my friend and my firm foundation my rock and my refuge my defense and my delight. To serve Him I am now employed.

At 8.30 the train pulled out for Harwich were we arrived at 10 and were hurried onto the ship “Amsterdam” and immediately the propellers began their work for the night.

September 17, 1898 (Saturday) [Rotterdam to Hanover by train]

The sight of Holland the land of the Dykes, came with the break of day and at 5 a.m. I landed at the Hook of Holland, taking the train for Rotterdam where I met Elder Paul Roelofs at 120 Isaac Hubart Straat where I had breakfast.

Gave Bro Roelofs 10 guilders which Elder Larkin sent from London to that office. Missed my train at 8.40 and remained in Rotterdam sightseeing until 12.27 p.m. Elder Roelofs took me around through the city and out to the Park, one of the most peaceful resorts it has been my pleasure to enjoy. It was the home of tranquelity and the palace of pleasure. How is it possible, I asked myself while wandering through these sylvan scenes, for sin to find a welcome in the hearts of those who live within, and can enjoy such calm retreats as these. [“X” placed here.] Wrote a card to my wife <Provo> and one to R. E. Booth Alpine while waiting in the station at noon. After a ride of about 12 hours ride I landed in the City of Hannover in Germany. At 12.20 Slept at the Bellveau Hotel, opposite the station. The ride from Rotterdam to Hannover was not an unpleasant one although I felt strange in not being able to converse with any one but I managed to get what I wanted most.

September 18, 1898 (Sunday) [Hanover]

Left my luggage at the hotel and went out to find Elders F. W. Penrose and Thos. Vickers whose address I had at Werder Strasse 15 Hannover but on going I learned that they were not there but could not understand where they were gone. Signs were made by which I understood that I was to follow a little boy, which I did. He lead me to a store kept by a young lady belonging to the Church and for whom I had a message from Bro Larkin. I succeeded in making her partialy understand my visit and that I was in search of Elders Penrose and Vickers. I could not understand where they were at that time but thought they would soon come as the lady pointed to a hat which belonged to Penrose.

While I was in the store the Elders came in and although we were strangers they soon seemed as old friends and taking me to their lodgings at Bro. August Todje’s at Gr. Pfahl Strasse 7 Ba. we had dinner and then called upon a sister Kremer whose daughter it was that I had met in the morning named Mary Kremer. I wrote a card for her telling what Bro Larkin had hinted for me to say. Also wrote the following lines which she sent to him in her sweet joval style.

“I received the sweet kiss you sent me
Twas as sweet as the roses of June
I will send you one over the ocean
On the face of the next full moon
So get your lips ready to catch it
As it falls from that postman above
It will not loose sweetness in going
As if carried on lips we dont love.”

After our visit with these good sisters the boys took me out to Herrnhausen Park, the sweetest sight and the prettiest landscape gardening of its kind yet met with. I thought the Park in Rotterdam was lovely, and it was, but this one surpasses that of Holland in being more open and exposed to a general view. The Herrnhausen gardens is the rendavous of flowers and fountains and fishes, the palace of perfumery and the sky roofed tabernacle of tranquility. Were there just at sunset and the evening air seemed as pure and clear and fresh as a morning of Spring in the mountains of Zion.

Hannover—like Washington is a city of order and cleanliness A Resident City rather than one of smokey manufacturies.

September 19, 1898 (Monday) [Hanover to Leipzig by train]

After breakfast we went to see the “Geöffnetes Grabdenkmal auf dem Gartenkirchhof.”— (The opened grave in the garden church) A lady is burried here who had not been a believer in the resurrection and had given orders that her grave was to be sealed with heavey stones and bound with bands of iron and her order was inscribed on the rock that no hand should un break this seal through all eternity; but alas her order has been ignored and nature sent a tree upshooting through those ironbound rocks and as it grew and spread its roots they heaved that ponderous stone and opened wide the gates of that forbidden grave. Foolish mortal to order not what God has said would surly be.

At noon I took leave of my new made friends and in 6 hours was <in> Leipzig a city of about 400.000 inhabitants. While riding along I took out my paper and wrote a letter to my friend J. H. Beck of Alpine, in accordance with his request that I write him this date—his birthday. On getting off the train I soon fond my way to the headquarters of the elders at Albert Str. 9 where I met some more of my old friends A. J. Stewart and A C Lund,[23] also Elders Brigham Perkins and Charles Stevenson. I went out with Bros Perkins and Stewart and had supper at a resturaunt which cost me 1 mark and 15 Pfennige,[24] equal to about 29 cts.

Spent the remainder of the evening in Prof Lunds room listening to his music.

September 20, 1898 (Tuesday) [Leipzig to Berlin by train with stop at Wittenberg]

We went out to see some of the sights of Leipzig and visited the “Buch Börse” or Book Exchange when Bro. A J Steward was taken ill and we returned to the house on Albert Str where we had dinner and I accompanied Bro Stewart to the station. At 220 we took the train for Berlin but stopped off to visit the City of Wettenberg historic for its having been the Home of Dr Martin Luther from 1508-1546.

I took a leaf from the old oak tree which is said to mark the spot where Luther Burned the Papal Bull.

I am now writting this page in front of the old residence where Luther lived and worked for 38 years. His Bust is on the wall out side the building.

We next were shown through this old historic mansion and saw many of the valued relics of the great reformer. Ascended the Tower we exchanged cards in rememberance of this visit. <Wrote one to Jessie Hunter, Alpine.> Next we went to the Pfahrerkirche and from there on to the monuments of Luther and Malanchthon.[25]

It was now growing dark but we paid a visit to the exterior of Schlosskirche where these men were laid away to rest so many hundred years ago.

At 8 p.m. we left again for Berlin where we arrived at 10 oclock and was nearly one hour in getting to Ryke Str. where Bro Stewart was then staying. There I met Elders Thomas W Jones of Ceder City and Thos. Winn of Nephi.

The streets of Berlin were almost as light as day and looked very pretty.

September 21, 1898 (Wednesday) [Berlin, Germany]

Bro Stewart & I spent the whole day in sighting in the mighty City of Berlin. I met Bro D. H. Christensen of Payson and several other elders from Utah. Among the great sights of the Metropolos of Prussia were the Marian kirche, Der Schloss, Monument of Kaiser Wilhelm I The Castle Fountain, Monument of Luther, “Rathhaus”, Parliament building, Victory column, “Unter Den Linden” etc.

Bought a Book of views of the City. *

Elders Geo C Gardner of Pine Valley, Christian Larson, of Logan, Charles Henry Miles of St George were the other brethern whome I had the pleasure of meeting. One beautiful feature of Berlin is the elegent style in which the show windows are decorated. No money or pains seems to have been spared in this line of work.

The buildings themselves present a symetry and a neatly designed uniformity in the general appearance as they stand in stately fronts along either side of the streets.

Being a city of one and three quarters millions of people it is remarkably attractive in its well regulated sanitary conditions and despite its old standing it is not behind in the latest and most costly style of architecture. The Castle of The Kaiser is almost every thing from the richest spangles of Royal Affluence to real shabby corners and from delicate finery to dirty looking surroundings. “Unter Den Linden” is only excelled in beauty by the charming sweetness suggested by its name.

September 22, 1898 (Thursday) [Berlin to Leipzig by train]

Visited the National Musieum in company with Bro T. W. Jones.

After dinner I went to the conference house on Höchste Str 8. and bidding the boys adieu started back for Leipzig. Bro Stewart went with me to the Buss and left me to go to Enhalten Bonhof.— The station where I was to take the train. On arriving there I found myself about 1 hour and 30 minutes before time so I sat writing and reading in the waiting room. At last I got my tickett (IV class) for that was the cheapest and my through ticket did not bring me to Berlin from Leipzig. It cost 3 m. and 30 pfs each way, nearly 100 miles.

The train was to start at 3.50 but I found to my surprise that no IV class cars were run with that train so I had to wait until 5.10 for one on which I could ride.

On my way to Leipzig I met a man who befriended me and did all he could to assist me on my way to my place of destination; showing me the street car line and asking favors of the conductors in my behalf.

Arrived at 10. p.m. and went out with A. C. Lund to get a drink of beer as the customs here make it hard to get a good glass of water. We each told to the other the story of our lives since we were “Boys at school.” It was past midnight e’er we dropped to sleep in his little cozy couch in the upper story of 9 Albert Strasse.

In all my trip <to Berline> which cost but a few dollars has been one of great pleasure and profit.

September 23, 1898 (Friday) [Leipzig]

Bros. Lund Perkins, and Elder [blank] Heiner of Morgan whom I met here last evening, took me around the City some but my stay was limited and after dinner about 2. oclock I was accompanied to the Bahnhof by Bro Lund. I loaned him a 5 pound note on the English Banks for a few months and we took a very warm and tender leave of each other for an unknown period. The scenery along the route east of Leipzig was mostly that of field broken ocassionaly by a forrest or a green topped hill but as we neared the City of Dresden the surroundings became romantic. Castles towering up above the tree tops on the very summit of those Sylvan hills which rise in splendor, (though not at all majestic when compared to Utah Peaks) along the banks of the Elbe River, and near at hand the well tilled gardens stretching all along the <verdent> foot hills seemed like agriculture bowing in gentle meekness before Proud Architectures Throne.

Arrived in <Neu Stadt,> Dresden at 4 p.m. and found my way after numerous “broken” inquires to Hecht Str 42 b. 2#, R.

None of the Elders were at the office but I awaited their return and was soon acquainted with Pres. LeRoy C Snow and Nephi Y Taylor of Salt Lake City and also met my friend A. J. Done of Payson. After a good supper of Hot milk and beread and butter I took a walk through the City and over the Elbe River to Altstadt, another part of Dresden.

September 24, 1898 (Saturday) [Leipzig]

Bros Taylor, Done and myself took in the sights around the Barricks in the N E Part of town. After dinner Bro Done and I enjoyed a ride down the Elbe to Meissen about 14 miles where we visited the Porcelain Factory. The work there is simply marvelous for the richness of design and the delicacy of its execution. One mantlepiece alone cost, or at least was worth 9,000 marks. One candlestick worth 6,000 m. etc. It rained very hard while we were in Meissen. At dusk we took the train for Dresden where we arrived just after dark at the close of one of the most pleasant days of my trip.

Wrote a card to my wife and had my companion write a souvenir card for me while on board the boat “John Penn” on the Elbe River.

September 25, 1898 (Sunday) [Leipzig to Vienna by train]

Visited the Catholic Church services to hear the famous music of that choir. With the organ, with stringed instruments, and with loud sounding horns that made the walls echo with a harmony almost divine the musicians seemed to do their best to praise the Lord of Heaven.

The blending of their sweet toned voices with that concord and chorous of mellifluous strains would almost make one wounder if all of natures tones from the deepest rolling cords of the clouds to the thrilling tongue of the Canarry had not lent there songs of symphony to that throng of mortal singers while they sang there morning anthemn in church. I shall not forget it soon.

In the afternoon I preached to the German saints in their gathering and it was interpreted by Pres Snow, who also followed me in making some remarks. Took supper at the home of Bro and Sister Herman Poitz at 24 Görlitzer Str.

In the evening I took a walk with Bro Taylor out through “Der Gross gartens” and around to see the old church where Dr Karl G. Maeser[26] first taught school. At 9.30 <p.m.> I boarded the train after a most friendly leave of the Brethern who accompanied me to the station, and was soon on my way again for the land of promise. Travled all night. It was too cold to sleep much so I just huddled up on the bench and waited for morning.

September 26, 1898 (Monday) [Vienna]

When daylight came I found myself wheeling through the fields and forests of Austria. Was soon in sight of the city of Vienna the great capital of Austro Hungerie, with its million and a half of people. Spent the day here and found a new friend in the person of J. A. Anderson of Grants Ville Utah, who has been in Europe for 6 years studying music.

We took the whole of the day for sight seeing and it was one long to be remembered. The city was still in mourning over the late death of the Emperess, Elizebath of Austria who met her sad and tragic fate at Geneva (Switzerland) and was brought home to Veinna for burrial about the 15 inst.[27] Veinna is remarkable for its massive stone structures and architectural ornamentations as well as its picturisque surroundings of wooded hills. To me it suggests itself as being a hugh piece of sculptory by the side of an emmense floral bed. “Schönbrunn” is the attraction of the worlds tourists. Its walled trees are really artistic. I bought a set of views and a traveling blanket. Being tired with so much traveling about and no sleep last evening I did not stay out long to witness the night scenery. Stayed with Bro Anderson at No 16 Karls Gasse, 4 Bezirk II Stock, Thur 16. where he was staying.

September 27, 1898 (Tuesday) [Vienna to Budapest by train]

About 9 am I left Veinna and after a very pleasant ride of 5 hours I found myself in the City of Budapest the metropolis of Hungaria. After dinner I made my way up to the old fortress on the hill which overlooks the city. I am <there> at this writing, in command of one of the most delightful and entrancing views I ever beheld.

Beneath me lies the Danube separating the two cities, Buda and Pest, steam boats are gliding from bank to bank and from bridge to bridge. The City stretches out into the misty distance in many directions and presents a scene of indescribable grandur. While I have been sitting here watching the mighty commerce and endless streams of humanity in their course of business the scene has changed from one of house tops shinning with day light to one of contless brilliant torches burning in their nighty splendor through the whole city. It has been a transition from misty midday to a glorious effulgent nightfall. As I look down upon <this> nocturnal view it seems as if the universe has been inverted and all the stars are burning from below. Electric lights here and there shine with the brilliancy of the first magnitude stars while gass gits and feebler flames of oil are duplicating <all> the varied twinklers of the sky. The spectral lustered Danube stretching through this earth ward galaxy of man made stars presented a beautiful counterfeit of the Milky Way, while the darting boats with their glaring headlights look like slow moving meteroids on the face of the uplooking picture.

It was an impressive sight, indeed and as I descended that mountain through the darkness and came into the rays of those dark-dispelling fires of human invention and walked over the gigantic highway inunder which were glimmering the mirriored flames of lamps along the rivers banks, I felt so much enraptured with my visit to this elevated spot that from my heart there came instinctively a prayer to God to bless the City of Budapest. I know not what the are the sins of the City, but I do know that she gave to me, a stranger in a strang land, a sight, the like of which I did not think was on this beauteous earth of ours. May the Lord hasten the day when the Gosple of Christ will be heard and obeyed; and the light of eternal truth shine in all the world to the happifying of the human race with even more enchantment, endlessly prolonged, as the lights of Budapest have shone to night and filled my soul with such sweet pleasant, though ephemerial Joy. Through a missunderstanding of the train schedual I was delayed in Budapest all night. I should have taken the train at 9.15 this evening but will now wait until tomorrow.

This mistake of mine has resulted in a very favorable way. Had I left here to night I would have been compelled to find accomodations in Bucharest tomorrow evening after 10 oclock the time of arival there. And besides I get until after noon here tomorrow and a lay of in Bucharest of 5 hours and then go on the same train from there to Constanza as if I had gone to night. So far it seems everything has worked admirably for me.

Found lodgings at the Hotel Central.

September 28, 1898 (Wednesday) [Budapest to Bucharest by train]

After a good night’s rest at the Hotel Central I walked around again and purchased some souviner cards and an album of Views of Budapest. Sent cards to Josie Booth, Provo, and to J W Knight Bristol Eng.

At 2 p.m. I boarded the train for an other 21 hours ride to Bucharest, the Capitol of Romania. The scenery along the line was a panoram and I stood at the car window most of the time till nearly 9 oclock. The moon was full behind a sky of fleecy clouds and the River [blank] scarcely rippling with its gently moving waters stretched along in graceful curves among the trees and rocks and hills. As it mirrored on its face the yellow moon and the mountains it looked like cream-colored silk-insertion worked in fabrics of a coarser kind. A few clusters of the lucious grapes of Hungaria were no less pleasing to the taste than the landscape is to the eye. I made some new friends who were on their way to Constantinople Mr & Mrs Raff and cook. He could speak english was among them and aided me enrout.

September 29, 1898 (Thursday) [Budapest to Bucharest by train]

Safely gliding along at Day break and two morning stars peep in at the car window from the low horizon of the east. Soon after sunrise we entered a pretty cañnon fairly lined with grass and green trees, leading through the Transylvania Alps (mountains). Predeal at its summit is a City in the tops of mountains where tourists can spend a summer of rarest enjoyment. The custom house between Austro-Hungaria and Romania is here and for the first I was asked to present my passport. The ride down the Romanian side was not so pleasant as the assent had been but still not a weary one. We reached Bucharest at 11.20 a.m. Took dinner at the Hotel Bristol and viewed the sights a short time: but was not favorably impressed with the city.

It seems like another world since leaving Budapest. The low houses, the narrow streets, the dirty looking windows of the shop and more than these, the dress and customs of the orient mingled among the inhabitants of Bucharest present a striking contrast to <the> up-to-date city which I left only yesterday. At 3.45 p.m. the train pulled out for Constanza on the shore of the Black Sea where we arrived at 9 p.m. The main features of interess along this road were the vast corn fields with men, women and children gathering and husking the maze corn. Camp fires by the hundreds could be seen <after dark> and the people seated around the dim lights beneath rude shelter, or none of all, seemed happy with <their> out door home, and their ox teams unyolked and tied to the tongue of the wagon <stood> chewing their corn stock supper unmindful of the snorting firey iron steed that passed so swiftly by. The three great bridges that span the Danube where it forms a doubble island are indeed wounderful in strength and structure. The steamer Regele Carol I a Romanian Vessell was in the harber at Constanza and we were soon on board but did not set sail until about 12 oclock that night.

I remained on deck, tired as I was till the ship was out on the sea a few furlongs and then retired for the night.

September 30, 1898 (Friday) [Bucharest to Constantinople by steamship]

Postcard of Pera and Galata, ca. 1890s. Courtesy of the Booth family.

When I arose we were beyond sight of land, with and a smooth sea beneath and a bright sun climbing the eastern sky. The dark inky waters indicated the appropriateness of their name. Just at 12 oclock, noon, we passed into the Bosporus sea and were soon in sight of Constantinople the Queen city of the long past. Among all the pictures and photoes of this city I have seen few which surpass <in beauty> the real sight <as witnessed> from the passing steamer through the Bosporus waters. But O what a different spectacle when one gets into the heart of this mass of filth. After passing the custome house with a strict examination of my books and articles in my grips, and getting my passport signed—a nuisance to the traveling publice which ought to be dispensed with through international agreement—or interferance, I put up for the time at the “Sailors Rest” near the landing where the “Sailors Mission” was located. A Mr. Haire was in charge, Englishman; Through courtesy of a Mr. Peter Moschides I soon found my way to 87 Hendak Sokak. (Small) Galata,[28] not far from the Sailors Rest. This is the address of Bro F F Hintze[29] when staying in Constantinople and also where Elder J. M. Tanner[30] stayed. I learned that Elder Hintze had gone to Syria three weeks ago and the only thing for me to do was to wait here for instructions from him. During a short walk about the streets I met some very peculiar sights, a medly of humanity, dogs, donkies and dirt. Animals dead and half decayed could be seen here and there and the stench was almost sickening. Fruit stands on nearly every corner around which swarmed flies and wasps enough to make a starving stomach hesitate befor buying and eating the otherwise delicious clusters.

The weather was hot and dry. All in all the city was not an inviting place.

October 1, 1898 (Saturday) [Constantinople]

Put in several hours in reading and study. Took a walk up into Pera and called at Cooks agency to ascertain more about the ships between here and Haifa. Received a letter at the British P.O. written by Bro Hintze, before leaving here, on Sept 4.

He had not then learned of Bro Sarkis remaining in America. The sights up in Parea are a little more civilized and attractive though not without dissagreeable features. I counted in the short walk, more than 340 dogs along the streets. If the whole city is infested as this particular part there must be at least 25,000 dogs here in this capital of the Canine Kingdom. Without these scavengers the city would be too filthy for a protracted visit.

October 2, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

The day seemed little different from a week day for many of the shops and business places were still open and people persuing their vocations heedless of the great command “Remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy.” Spent a good share of the time in reading and in the evening attended divine Services with the Sailors at the Mission House. Mr. Haire conducted the meeting and delivered a very impressive Sermon on “The Love of God.” An Incident occured before the meeting which is perhaps worthy of note. I was writing a letter to my Bro R. E. at Alpine and a man of very common dress and appearence came in and took a seat at the same table, asked for a piece of paper which I gave him with an envelope and when he had address it,—he was a German and wrote it in that language, said to me “There is something in there that will save the Keiser’s life.” He then explained to me that he had overheard some men talking about some mines which had been laid for the purpose of blowing up the ship on which the German Emperor will make his trip to this City and Palestine in a few weeks from now.[31] The gentleman was notifying some one about the conspiracy. I will watch the coming visit of the Keisar to this country with interest but still with the hope that there is nothing in the above supposition. The spirit of Murder is rampant in the world and the people are ripening in iniquity.

October 4, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople]

Read German again and walked up to the American Consul and Reported the supposed conspiracy against the Keisar. Read several hours on the life of the Apostle Paul.

In the evening I met Mr. F G Köegel the Champion pedestrain of the world who had made the trip on foo[t] in 22 months. He was now on his way to Palestine on a wheel,[32] also his relative Mr. Lockmal.

October 5, 1898 (Wednesday) [Constantinople]

Mr Köegel and his friend having been my room mates during the past night I had a conversation with them on the gosple and they seemed very much interested in the same.

Read more of “Foot Prints of St Paul” and in the evening I had a gosple conversation with Mr Haire the Missionary to the Sailors. Sent him some tracts.

October 6, 1898 (Thursday) [Constantinople]

Spent the day as usual in study etc. Had a game of chess with Mr Haire at night. About 10 oclock a.m. I received a letter from the U. S. Consul General—Mr Chas M. Dickinson asking me to call on the German Consul General at his office about 11 oclock, as he desired to talk with me concerning the matter which I reported to our consul last Tues.

I prayed earnestly to the Lord that this little affair would be the means of our Elders gaining favor in the eyes of the German Nation where the spread of the gosple is so much impeeded through the ignorant prejudice of that people. I know that the Lord can bring about His wise purposes through the humble and seemingly insignificant acts of his servants but if it is but a small thing on my part to thus report any danger than might befall the Head of that Nation, and only what I ought to do as a man in the interest of my fellow-man, God can turn it to the great good of the ministry and to the carrying of the gosple to the nations of the earth.

I met the German Consul and told him simply what I had learned through accident regarding the plot to destroy the Emperor of his Country. He asked my name and adress and I shall await the outcome with faith and interest.

October 7, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople]

Spent the forenoon in company with Mr. Hair and two other gentlemen in sailing the Bosporus and throwing news Bundles up to the English sailors (Mr Haire’s work) as they were anchored out in deep waters with their ships. The sight seemed doubly enchanting as I looked back to last week when I sailed down the same channel and now gazed from our little boat, pushed through the waves by a tiny petrolium motor; and took a second view of this beautiful place. The bellows rolled with such smoothness and tossed our barque so gently that I was not satisfyed with that close intimacy with the tempting sea but disrobed and sprang from the boat head long into the briny deep. After swimming about for some time I caught a rope thrown from the stern of the boat and was towed swiftly through <the> water until my curiosity was for the time satisfyed and I climed up into the little vessel and we headed back for Galata. Mr. Haire also took a bath with me.

Spent the afternoon in reading the life of St Paul and in the evening a crowd of Jolly sailors came in to “The Rest” and spent an hour or two.

October 8, 1898 (Saturday) [Constantinople]

Finished reading “The Footprints of St Paul” a very interresting book of 416 pages.[33] Wrote a card to my sister May[34] and one to Pres Wells, Liverpool. My expences up to to night since my arrival here amounts to a trifle over $5. All told. I have learned, however that I can do with much less if I stay another week. Sailors from several vessels came in to the “Rest” to spend the evening. A few ladies were also Present and all together made a nice crowd for the rendering of a short program. I was asked to take the chair and act as Master of Ceremonies. Singing, & reciting for a while was followed by the Reading of “Enoch Arden” by Mrs Haire accompanied with a beautiful set of Steryoptican views.[35]

October 9, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

Read several chapters in the Book of Mormon in Alma and wrote a letter to my wife. It rained hard for an hour or so during the day, causing the streets to be floode and running into houses. I fasted all day that the Spirit of the Lord might rest upon me and that my testimonies to these people who are so warmly befriending me might be the means of convincing them of the truth of the gosple. I also prayed that the Lord would assist me in my studies in learning the languages. Divine Services were held in the evening and Mr Haire talked on the word “All” as found in Scriptures. “All have <sined &> come short of the Glory of God” “Christ died for all” etc. I offered the benidiction.

October 11, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople]

Took a walk with a young man from Bulgaria whome I met last evening and who called to day to see me. I Bought two small books for the study of French. One for 3 and the other for two Piasters.[36] Wrote a letter to the “Daily Mail” London in reply to an article on “A Rail road to Bombay.”

Still refrained from eating or drinking, and still continued my humble suplications to God for his blessings. In the evening I had a very interesting conversation with Mr Haire, occasioned through his reading the Book of Mormon. He is a very reasonable man.

October 12, 1898 (Wednesday) [Constantinople]

The <sun> shone with unusual brightness and the sky was a beautiful clear dark blue which drew forth the feelings of adoration for God and His Glorious works. I read the II & III chaps. of John from the German Bible, several news paper articles and the Book of Ether. Kept up my fast with still greater assurance that the Lord will condesend to recognize my condition and send the desired blessings upon his poor weak and unworthy servant. Mr Lockmal (see Oct 4) left for Smyrna to await the arival of his friend in a few days. These men are Germans from Leipzig and the former especially seemed interested in the gosple and I trust that the lord will lead him to learn more of, and obey it.

October 13, 1898 (Thursday) [Constantinople]

Read from 1st the 56 Psalm. Studdied German and French and spent an hour in rest and an hour in a morning walk. Wrote a card to Elder Philip Maycock[37] and one to elder F F Hintze. Addressed the former at Aintab & the latter to Aleppo, Syria. Five long days and nights have past and still I am waiting paitently on the Lord. It is even pleasant to know that one so unworthy can knock and importune at the Gates of Grace with such unceasing [orisons] to God and still be conscious of the fact <that> he, whoes prayers assend so oft is known, in side by Him whoes ears are pierced thus and yet His anger kindles not but bids me wait upon his loving, tender, pleasure.

October 14, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople]

Read up to the 87th Ps. (from 55). At 11.30. a.m. I went with Mr Haire and “Charlie”, his attendant, in their little boat for another ride on the Bosporous. They were taking the boat up to the yard to clean and paint her and I assisted in tugging her out on to the land. Feeling week I came back to the “Rest” at 2 p.m. and laid down for a while. About 5 p.m. Mr. & Mrs Haire and her sister Miss Emma Hutchensen from near Liverpool, came in and they invited me to their house upon the hill a ways back from the Key. They spread an elegant supper and would have me sit up with them for company which I did but only sat and withstood the temptation.

During my morning reading of those sweet Psalms of Prayse David’s pen and heart, my ears were pierced and my soul made to shudder by the impious tones of a sea-faring man who sat across the Room and in his conversation oft profaned the name of Him before whose throne I am daily bowing and hourly beseecking mercy and help. I arose and walking over to him tremblingly asked him to desist and as a friend I warned him of the great sin of taking the name of God in vain. He grew angry and railed against me saying it was not my province to teach him and that he would answer for his own sins. But I feel that my duty was done.

October 15, 1898 (Saturday) [Constantinople]

Finished reading the Ps. and read several chapters in the Book of Mormon concerning the Vision of Lehi and Nephi etc. It rained some about noon. I took a walk up into Pera to fand a bath room but the cost for a European bath was too much so I concluded to come back and fortunately I found a place close to “The Rest” where I got a splendid Turkish bath[38] for five Peasters = 20 ct. I was very week and exhausted after my long walk and so retired early and ceased not to fast and Pray before the Lord. This is now the Seventh day and my soul is bowed down even to the depths of humility with this great suffering of hunger & thirst. But God will hear and answer my prayers ere long.

October 16, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

I arose early and felt in my soul to praise the God of my salvation. Spent the morning in fasting and prayer and reading His Revelations. At 2 p.m. I retired to my room and although alone so far as human beings were conserned I held divine services and sang and prayed and partook of the sacrament in Remembrance of the Lord Jesus. I felt to Glorify the name of the Lord who has been so merciful unto me and I felt that he had acceped of my fasting and Prayers and will continue his blessings to-ward me. About 3.30 oclock I broak my long fast, eating a plain dinner of Tomatoes, & onions & eggs cook or fried in olive oil and drinking hot lemon water for a beverage. Aside from the longing thirst which lasted several hours I felt well but still very week. In the evening meeting a Mr Witten who had just arrived this morning from “Los Angels” Cal U.S.A. was invited to speak. He was a missionary of the First Baptist Church and dwelt some on the Love of God but went so far as to say that there is no Judgement if we meerly believe in Christ. Such doctrine aroused me and I asked permission to speak for a few minutes and I arose and bore my testominy to the restoration of the gosple and cried Repent ye for the Kingdom of Heaven is at hand.

October 17, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

Great preparations have been made in Constantinople for the reception of the Emperor & Empress of Germany but on account of storm the ship was detained and they did not arrive. I had a very interresting gosple conversation with Dr. Witten who became my room mate that day. Received a letter from my wife written from Provo Sep 9, also two issues of the “Deseret Weekly,” one of which contained my letter of Aug 23 last. A package of envelopes and a letter from the “News” asking for occasional correspondance was also received. The News from home and Utah was so appreciated that I spent much time in reading it. The letter from Mrs Booth also contained short notes from Miss Adelade Okey, <Alpine> and my niece Luella Lane attending the B.Y.A. Provo.[39]

October 18, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople]

About 9 a.m. the roar of cannon was heard on the Bosporus announcing the arrival of The Kaisar. People gathered along the shore for miles and ran up and down the streets in cheerful wildness in eager hopes of getting sight of the distinguished monarch. I was not among those who had the good fortune to see them as they came ashore. Great millitary Pomp and grandure was displayed and every thing that could be done was not neglected to make the Reception one worthy of the Crowned heads of the mighty empire of Germany. Spent several hours in study and news reading and in conversation.

October 22, 1898 (Saturday) [Constantinople]

Witnessed a grand parade in honor of the German emperor who left Constantinople on his way to Palestine. The affair gave me much better Idea of the definition of “Pagentry.” Attended a lecture at the Austrian <& German> school.

October 24, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

Went across the Golden Horn Bridge[40] to Stamboul[41] and viewed the sights in that Turkish part of the City with Mr. Sudeker. Wrote a letter to my wife <at Provo> and one to the folks at Alpine.

October 26, 1898 (Wednesday) [Constantinople]

In the afternoon I rece’d a letter from my wife dated <Provo> Oct 9 containing also notes from Sylvia Moyle and Zalie Carlisle of Alpine. Attended a grand reception given by the Bishop of Gibralter and had an introduction to him. Had a short conversation with the Rev. H. K. Anketel[42] of the British Embassy.

October 27, 1898 (Thursday) [Constantinople]

Wrote a letter to the Deseret News describing my trip across the continent of Europe. Also wrote cards to A. C. Lund Elders Penrose, Snow, and Hodson thanking them for their kindness in my travles. My friend Dr E. W. Witten left for Haifa that day.

October 28, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople]

Wrote a letter to Pres Wells, Liverpool, for tracts, the Star,[43] etc. Posted the cards and letters written yesterday.

October 29, 1898 (Saturday) [Constantinople]

Accompanied Mr Haire and “Charley” on another toure among the English ships anchored in the Bosporus. The wind and waves were rough and we got a good splashing. While Mr Haire was abord one of the ships we crused around and the propeller became clogged with rubish and we came near being ran into by a large paddle boat.

Took a turkish bath in the evening after studying my lesson in language.

October 30, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

Attended church again and Listened to The Rev T. E. Downing preach on “Be Strong.” I admired the quiet orderly conduct of the worshipers but the vain repetitions and the useless ceremonies were not at all congeniel to my spirit.

In the evening I met with the Sailors at “The Rest” and listened again to Mr Haire who spoke on “Choosing the Right” drawing illustrations from Abraham and Lot Gen XIII.

October 31, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

Took a walk for Exercise out near the end of the Golden Horn. I wandered through old graveyards and over hills and under trees that all seemed to be on the rode to decay. In the <early> evening Mr Kramer, a Perser[44] on the S S “Principia Maria” invited me abord and took me through the ship. The finishings are really handsome and the decorations in the rooms are rich and delicate and tastey.

The “Rest” came in possession of a Pianno and the evening was spent in listening to many songs accompanied by it. It carries me back to my home ten thousand miles away to hear the old hymns and songs that I have listened to so often in the land of my birth. The questions come to me, What are they doing there to night? How are all my loved ones in that far off land? May the Blessings of heaven be theirs for ever.

November 6, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

Accompanied Mr & Mrs Haire, Miss Emma Hutchensen & Mr. A Walker on board the “Enchantress”, an English Merchant Vessel lying in the Bosphorus, where they held divine services. In the after noon we went over to Haidar Pacha on the asiatic side and visited the Crimean Cemetary (English). Mr Walker treated the crowd to a nice meal at the restaurant, at about 3 p.m. This being fast day for the L.D.S. I commenced yesterday morning & continued till that supper in asia.

November 7, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

Took a walk up to see if Pres Hintze had arrived at his old lodgings. In the evening Mr Kremer, translated a card for me which I received yesterday from a friend whom I met in Hannover, Sister Mary Kremer. Played a few games of chess with Mr Hair and studied several hours.

November 11, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople]

An article appeared in The Levant Herald[45] discusing the question of the lack of male attendance in churches to which I wrote a reply in the evening.

November 14, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

My article, written on Fri. appeared in the Levant Herald, for which I received very high compliments. May the Lord bless it to the good of His work.

In the afternoon Miss Emma Hutchenson of Berk [blank], Eng left for her home. I gave her a letter of Introduction to the Presidency of our mission at 42 Islington Liverpool. Wrote a letter also to them asking about the books & tracts which I ordered on the 28 ult.[46] and have not yet arrived.

November 15, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople]

Posted my letter on the “Regele Carole I” (S.S.).[47] Went up into Pera and obtained 2 coppies of the Herald of Nov 14, one of which I sent to my Bros. at Provo Utah.

November 18, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople]

Posted the answer to Mr. C. Took lessons from some of my friends in German, and Turkish languages. Saw the process of making what is called Helwassi,[48] a sort of manna which is a very favorite article of diet among the Turks.

November 20, 1898 (Sunday) [Constantinople]

Attended <church at> the British Embassy Chapple and listened to the Rev A K Anketel who preached from the Text “I speak of Christ and His church” making reference to my letter published last Mon. and confining his remarks to that same subject. The day was wet and muddy and I spent the afternoon at the “Rest.” Met Mr. Loyde again and loaned him the Book of Mormon.

November 21, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

Cold and stormy most all day. A Concert was held at the Rest in the evening, at which I occupied the chair and was called for two Recitations.

Wrote a few lines of Rhyme to a young officer in the Turkish Navy who has become very friendly and assists me some in studying the Turkish language.

“An Ac[r]ostic[49] to My Dear Friend Mr. Faud”
If ever you may chance to roam
Away in distant, foreign lands
May you, while loosing joys of home
Your wants receive from friendly hands.
Oh we can never know their worth
Until we leave our home and friends.
Rubies from all the mines of earth
Fail to supply or make amends.
Rely then always on the Lord
In him you’ll find a Father’s love
Enlist with saints and your reward
“New Home” shall be, and “Friends above.”

November 22, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople]

Cold during the fore part of the day but warmer in the afternoon. Mr Loyde called and invited me to go with him through St Sophia,[50] the great Mosque of the Mohamedans.[51] They were going through prayers and services while we were there. The old structure which has stood these many ages still has the appearance of solidity and yet shows the marks of age in every feature of its immense extentions. We also rambled some about Stamboul and visited the Mosque of Solyman[52] which is not so large but newer than St. Sophia.

November 23, 1898 (Wednesday) [Constantinople]

Had some interesting conversations with Mr. Kremer, and two missionaries, Mr Sishmanian and A L Chapman who called to see me at the rest, Mr Haire and Mr Loyde. Mr Haire furnished a nice dinner at the Rest during the conversation with him. Mr Chapman is an American and the writer of the note asking an interview with me last week. Rec’d a letter from my sister May dated Salt Lake City Nov 6, 1898, in which she speaks of the birth of their son J. Karl. She also mentions the death of “Loretta,” but gives no surname thinking I suppose that I have already heard of it. I am led to suppose it is my dear friend Loretta Whitby,[53] who, amid tears and sobs gave me a loving kiss and a sweet rose as I left their door—the last one in which I stood in the little city of Alpine.

November 28, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople]

The long expected letter came at last. Pres. F. F. Hintze writes from Alexandretta, Syria, under date of 18th inst and desires me to come there at once. It will be several days before I can leave on acct of the Books and tracts <having> not yet arrived and also the distributing them among some who are interested which will require a day or two after they are received here.

December 4, l898 (Sunday) [Constantinople to Alexandretta by steamship]

Arose early and wrapped some tracts up and mailed them with letters to Rev. H. K. Anketel, Rev. F. W. Anderson and Mr Robt. McGill all of Pera.

Met Mr W. Allen Lloyd and he has decided to go with me this morning. We purchased some provisions and after receiving a letter at the P.O. for Mr Hintze from Utah, and bidding a farewell to Constantinople we embarked in the “Saturno” and set sail about 11 a.m. for a voyage around the Coast of Asia Minor.[54] The day was misty but calm and the waters of Marmora were tranquil and beautiful. We purchased third class ticketts. Mine cost 95 piasters to Alexandretta, Syria. We were successful in securing the good will of the Stewart and obtained a cabin and were made very comfortable for a pound sterling each. Spent the day in reading, watching the passing shore and ships and waves, and witnessing the sights on board the ship, among which was the Mohamedans observing their prayers every few hours.

December 5, 1898 (Monday) [Constantinople to Alexandretta by steamship]

Day break found us in the Dardenells where we anchored for a few hours to discharge and take on cargo. During our passage along the channel and into the Aegean Sea I wrote a few lines on the scenery. The poem consists of 6, 4 lined stanzes.[55] At dusk we cast anchor a few hours at Mytilene on the east coast of the Island of Lesbos (see acts XX,14) where Paul called on his voyage from Assos to Syria.

December 6, 1898 (Tuesday) [Constantinople to Alexandretta by steamship]

The heavey clang and splash of anchor roused me from slumber at day break and on going to the deck found myself facing the City of Smyrna the place of one of the seven Churches of Asia. See Rev. 2.8. Our ship remained until 5.30 <or 6> p.m. and securing a guide for one franc, (he asked 6) I went ashore and called on Mr. Lane the U. S. Consul and from there took a hurried trip through the busiest parts of the city. The Bazars are grand and rich and splendid but some of the side lanes and even a few of the highways are almost a peer to Constantinople in filth and stench. Wrote a card to Mrs. Booth and Posted it at the British P.O.

Also bought another picture card of the Caravan bridge and gave my guide another franc to take me to the place. The weather was as warm and delightful as a early autum day, and the green trees and fresh ripe fruit and flower were very attractive. Just outside the harbor there silently rises out of the deep sea the top masts of a sunken ship whose anchor has been cast by the hand of Destruction.

Just after dark we set sail again with a calm sea beneath and a clear sky above.

December 7, 1898 (Wednesday) [Constantinople to Alexandretta by steamship]

During the voyage we passed the coast of Ephesus to our left, the Islands of Samos and Patmos but I was unable to ascertain their exact location among all the group through which we sailed. The sunset of that day was a glorious one and the great orbe seemed to sink to rest in <its own> purple tinted bed of beauty. I never saw the sea so clear and reflective as on that mild evening. One could see his own features reflected in the water as he look over the bulwarks and down into the deep blue glassy surface. Even the birds were plainly imaged far down in the clear waters, and our ships prow and diverging sides and stem with her name “Saturna” could all be viewed from her own deck. During the twilight hours we approached and anchored at the old and famous city of Rhodes where we remained but a few hours and then steamed out into the night and into the Mediderranean.

Joseph Booth postcard of Smyrna, written to Reba Booth, December 6, 1898. Courtesy of the Moyle family.

December 9, 1898 (Friday) [Constantinople to Alexandretta by steamship]

Shortly after sunrise we came in sight of Mersina and steamed into that harbor where we anchored about a mile from shore. Mr. Lloyd & myself <etal> went ashore and spent the forenoon in the town. We visited a Greek church and several bazars but found nothing of special interest. Numerous caravans were there and the place seemed more Asiatic than any I have yet seen. A few hours ride from here, to the north lies the old city of Tarsus, the birth place of St Paul. About 2 p.m. I went aboard again, leaving Mr Lloyd, who followed latter. About 9 p.m. we set sail again for our run across the bay to Alexandretta.

December 10, 1898 (Saturday) [Alexandretta]

As I looked out to shore on coming on deck the picture before me was very home like. Mountains all around the coast tower up in various shapes from smooth sides and round tops to rugged cliffs. The city of Alexandretta presents a neat appearance with her white walled houses stretching along the waters edge. Mr. Lloyd came ashore with me and spent the forenoon. We took a very touching leave of each other and parted on the wharf to meet again I know not when or where. Put up at the Hotel Central and called on the U.S. Consul General,[56] Mr Washington who readily offered me any assistance I needed. Through mistake, or otherwise, my teskera[57] has been handed to some other man who I learned has gone on into the interior but the Consul said he would endeavor to get it returned and sent to Aleppo. Wrote a letter to my wife while at the Office and Mr. Washington sat down and had a nice little talk with me on our religion. I gave him a set of tracts and a Voice of Warning. His personal friendliness to me on such slight acquaintance was indeed worthy of note. Mrs Washington also met and received me with a warm shake of the hand. A letter from Pres. Hintze awaited me here and I was instructed to proceed to Aleppo or Aintab. My hotel man is making the arrangements for my departure. Just off to the North of here is the supposed sight of Jonah’s landing after his memorable voyage from Joppa in the steamer “Whale” where he received 1st class passage free of charge.

December 11, 1898 (Sunday) [Alexandretta to Aleppo by carriage]

<Wrote a letter to R E Booth.> The bargain was made bettween the arabage (carriage driver)[58] and my hotel man for me to ride to Aleppo for 6 mejidees (=$4.80). My Hotel bill including management etc was 11 francs.

About noon we set out on our journey. My companions were one man who rode in the carriage with me, another person and the driver who occupied the seat in front and out side. They all spoke Arabic and the only aid to making my self understood was Bedekar’s Guide which contains a few words and sentences in that language.[59] The vehicle was a closed carriage with red plush cushoned seats, glass windows, very low wheels, and rendered quite comfortable by good springs. The conveyance was, however, much the worse for wear and bore evidence of many a former trip. The motor power lay in the fatless, diminutive forms of four horses, attached to the wagon by means of leather straps and strings more antiquated than even the skiny skeletons that carried them along as they struggled and tugged and squirmed under the lash of the driver who urged and urged and whipped and urged again to get the speed up to a slow trot and to keep it so for a few minutes at a stretch.

The steeds were harnessed four-abreast and so we scrambled up and down the hills and through the valleys of Syria. The roads were a model for the West and reflects credit on the government. About 4 p.m. we passed Beilan, a village lying amond the hills not far from the summit of the mountains, and traveled until after dark when we reached the Kahn[60] at a nice clear mountain stream. From the mountains we could see the Lake of Antioch and before us stretched a large valley.[61]

I was told that the place where we stayed for the night was called Kahn Diarberkly. Here I met the English Vice Consul, Mr. John Falanga of Aleppo, who asked me to call on him on his return from Alexandretta where he was going. Also met an English lady who assisted me some as an interpretater. She was on her way to Aleppo. My companions were all very kind and considerate and I began to feel a little more comfortable. I had plenty of food along with me but was invited and pressed to eat supper with a small group of travelers among whome was the E[n]glish lady of Aleppo.

December 12, 1898 (Monday) [Alexandretta to Aleppo by carriage]

Continued our journey with nothing very eventful except, to me, the passing of the numerous caravans bearing their burdens across that dreary waste. I counted over 250 camels going toward Alexandretta and we passed nearly as many more coming to the interior. At 4 p.m. we reached the Kahn on the Afrin River and put up for the night. The room in which we slept was on the second floor and contained no furniture but an old board table and a few rush matresses. After making my bed in one corner I espied a few very suspicious look hools in the walls near the head of my bed and making signes to my companions that a serpent might crawl out they made my bed on the table. It rained that night.

December 13, 1898 (Tuesday) [Alexandretta to Aleppo by carriage]

I was aroused at 2 p.m. and told that we were to start, but we waited nearly two hours after getting up and eating our breakfasts, befor the carriage was ready. The weather was rough, wind and rain and the darkness made the ride a rather dreary one for about an hour when the driver turned into another Kahn to excape the weather. At 9.30 oclock we were off again and continued without feeding all day and at 6 p.m. reached the City of Aleppo the lights of which we spied through the twilight an hour earlier from the hills to the <N> west. I was driven to the Hotel d’Azizea where I spent the night. Soon after my arrival, an officer came for my teskera and not having it (see 10th) he took my passport amidst some excitement, but promised to return it at 10 tomorrow.

December 14, 1898 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

My Passport was returned at the hour agreed upon and soon after I was taken in a carriage to the agent of the American Consul where I asked for, and was sent to Dr. Arminag, whom Bro Hintze had directed me to find. On reaching his office he was not there but the driver went to find him and while I was waiting and wondering if I realy had found the place I wanted, my eye caught on the letters Z.C.M.I. in an old paper and going closer I found it to be a coppy of the Deseret News of Sept 2, 1898. That was enough to tell me that I was in close quarter with some one I wanted and I was soon made welcome by a warm brotherly <hand> shake of Dr. Armanag D. Shil Hagopian, the first L.D.S. I had met for nearly three months. He went with me back to the hotel and got my things and took me to his house where I was made thrice welcome by both him and his good wife.[62]

Armenag and Ovsanna Shil Hagopian family in Aleppo, with sons Carl (right) and Joseph (left). Courtesy of the Jacobs family.

At noon I sat down to my first meal of a realy turkish style and fashon and general make up. It consisted of bread made of unba----- [indecipherable word] flour and cracked wheat boiled in eggplant skins, with dried mutton for desert. We sat on mats around a large metal plate three feet in diameter and placed on a small suport which raised it about 7 inches from the floor. A pail of water and one cup was set by the table and a drink was passed to each one wanted. In the after noon I met Elder A. L. Larson[63] who came to the Dr’s place and stayed with us all night. Some of the saints came in & spent the evening.

December 15, 1898 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

Having had some trouble with the carriag men yesterday they came again and we settled with them. Elder Larson & I went to the Bath, and returning spent the day again at the Dr’s. I wrote the acct of my trip from Alexandretta to this City.

In the evening I attended a meeting of the Saints and spoke to them through the interpretation of Dr. Arminag. Elder Larson and I were invited to go and spend the evening and sleep at the home of Bro. Sarkis,[64] whose wife and family were at the meeting.

December 16, 1898 (Friday) [Aleppo]

Spent the day in writing letters etc at the room where Elder Larson was living. Sent a letter to my wife, one to Consul Washington at Alexandretta, and one to Pres. Hintze at Aintab. We went to Dr. Arminag’s and administered to his wife, and took supper again at Bro. Sarkis’. Had an interesting time with two young men who came to visit Bro Larson that night.

December 21, 1898 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

Rec’d a letter from Consul Washington at Alexandretta thanking me for my letter of 16th. We called on Mr Ezra, official examinor of Literature, and enjoyed a few hours talk with him. Later in the afternoon he came to our lodgings and stamped our books with a small plate which secured them from further examination.[65] Took supper with some of the saints—Bro Demirgian and family.

December 22, 1898 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

Studied, and wrote or rather commenced a letter to the Deseret News. Met with the Saints in meeting at night Elder Larson and Bro Arminge took up most of the time. A lively discussion ensued after the meeting betwen some of the saints and a few Catholics who came in to attend the meeting and hear us.[66]

December 23, 1898 (Friday) [Aleppo]

Finished my letter to the News, and wrote to the U. S. Consul at Alexandretta asking him to see about my books which were kept there as I came through. We Rec’d letters from Elders Maycock and Hintze at Aintab. It rained afternoon. As we went to post we took a walk around the old fortress and into the market. Standing on an eminence and looking on that mass of human babblers was a picture not to be easily forgotton. Thousands of people bedect in bright and dazzling colors fairly swarmed in their busy marketing and the din was a continual hum. We also called at a grist mill where donkies were employed to turn the stones—a relic of biblical days long gone.

December 25, l898 (Sunday) [Aleppo]

Christmass in the Orient. Surrounded with very strange features yet nothing out of the ordinary conditions. We held two meetings with the saints. I spoke in the first and Dr Arminag in the second meeting. He also translated for me. After the last meeting a very lively discussion ensued between some visiting catholics who had come to overthrow some of our doctrine, and the Doctor. A very good spirit prevailed during the services but the controversy ended in a feeling not so brotherly as we could have wished.

Elder Larson & I took supper at Bro Armanags and spent the evening there.

Often during the day my mind wandered back to my far off home in Zion and in fancy I met with dear ones, relatives, friends, & saints in their various homes and places of worship and almost seemed to joine with them in Christmas rejoicings.

December 26, 1898 (Monday) [Aleppo]

Remained indoors most all day. It was quite chilly. Tried my hand in needle work and put a patch on my trousers. We took supper with Bro Sarkis’s family. They were expecting some company, who dissapointing them, thus paved the way for our invatation and a good meal.

December 27, 1898 (Tuesday) [Aleppo]

Recd a Star and also the Deseret News of Nov 26. Spent the evening and took supper with Bros Vezerian and Majerian and Garoutch. Lahamageen[67] and a hot peppered mush, with bread and turnips, made our meal.

December 28, 1898 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

We responded to an invitation to meet at the home of Mr. Ezra the Censor who made arrangements for a discussion between us and what he called a Rabbi. The conversation turned from the “comming of Christ” the programed subject, to the “Book of Mormon” and lasted until nearly midnight. I could understand but very little of the talk.

December 29, 1898 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

We called on Mr. Christie, Protestant Missionary, and had a short conversation with him. In a Scotch news paper we read of Hon B. H. Roberts of Utah having his seat in the House of Representatives of U. S. contested on account of his alleged marriage relations.[68] The Saints met again in regular weekly testimony meeting. We enjoyed a good spirit and a very friendly interview took place after the close of the meeting between Bro Arminag and some visiting friend. The weather was clear and beautiful.

December 31, 1898 (Saturday) [Aleppo]

The last day of another year broke with a clear calm sky and Venus, the beautiful morning star of the season shinning like a pure diamond in the blue Syrian Heavens. The day was warm like a Utah October and the only shadow casting objects of the air were flocks of birds that winged their way above the rock built city of Haleb.[69]

Postcard image of Haleb (Aleppo), ca. 1900. Courtesy of the Booth family.

Our breakfast consisted of boiled rice and raisens, the cooking of which was superintended by Elder Larson, sugar honey and bread. Since my arrival in Aleppo I have gained some, I think, in flesh. We made arrangements with Bro Garouch to accompany me to Aintab next week. Called at Dr Arminags and talked of holding some kind of a social gathering of the Saints for a Celebration of New Years but through some dissatisfaction it was concluded best to let it pass by. Elder L. & I took a short strole through town and on our round treated our selves to three piasters worth of candy. Ate supper with Bros. Garouch, Vazerian & Nagerian. Hot Lahamigeen, turnips, bread and Helwaw were the delicious articles of diet.

At 2 oclock, turkish time, (about 7.30 <p.m.> European), we went to the bath where we remained for several hours. Returning in the last moments of the old year I took the bible and read Matt 27, when we (Elder Larson, <I,> and “Jeremiah”) kneeled in thanksgiving and prayer for the multitude of God’s blessings unto us and the gifts of the Gosple of which we are made the humble though <rich> receipiants. We were soon in floor spread beds, resting in the arms of peaceful slumber and though so far away from home and loved ones yet in the sweet dreams of that stilly night I wandered away to the land of my birth where I kissed and carressed with another “Farewell” the dear ones I left amidst summer and tears.

Missionaries in Palestine, 1898. Standing from left: Philip Maycock and Andrew Larson. Seated from left: Ferdinand F. Hintze, President Anthon Lund, and Nishan Sherinian. Courtesy of Church History Library.

January 2, 1899 (Monday) [Aleppo]

Made preparations for leaving for Aintab. Wrote letters to my wife and the folks at home, and one to Elder Wooten at the Liverpool office. Learned in the evening that we could not go until Wed. morning. <Loaned to Dr Armanag, ₤5.75.>

January 3, 1899 (Tuesday) [Aleppo]

Called at the U. S. Consul agent and was registered as an American citizen. Sister Arminag came over and cleaned up the meeting house and in the evening Elder L. & I took supper with them.

January 4, 1899 (Wednesday) [Aleppo to Aintab by carriage with layover in Kilis]

Soon after sunrise I took leave of my new made friends in Aleppo and in company with one of the saints, Bro Garouch, started for Aintab. In order to have company I took this man along with me and paid his expenses for traveling etc. Our carriage was a covered one and the ride was not unpleasant. Two small “plugs” in horse form tugged hard all day to earn their masters “otusaltu keroosh,” <(36 piastres)> the fair for both of us to Killis. Rested about one hour at the Khan at noon and arrived in Killis just after dark. It rained some during the day. Bro Hintze had made arrangements for a soldier to accompany me from here to Aintab but as Bro G. was with me, I did not need the man of arms.[70] An Bargain offer was made for our trip the next day to Aintab on horse back and I was to pay onbish keroosh (15 piastres) each, but another katarji[71] with better animals secured the job for 18 piasters <each.>

January 5, 1899 (Thursday) [Aleppo to Aintab by carriage]

Postcard image of Aintab city and hospital, ca. 1900. Courtesy of the Emrazian family.

Postcard of Central Turkey College, Aintab, ca. 1900. Courtesy of the Emrazian family.

Photo of early missionaries in Constantinople, 1887. Left to right: Ferdinand Hintze, Jacob Spori, and Joseph Tanner. Courtesy of Church History Library.

We were awaken long before the break of day and after a scant breakfast started out through the gloomy morning star, and waning moon light. The wind was blowing and heavey dark clouds hung in broken fragments in the sky. The road lay through rock beds along the foot hills to the north of Killis and for several miles was lined on either side by olive groves and vineyards. As we assended the hills and looked off toward the low eastern horizon the clouds cleard away while the sun came peeping up in glorious splendor, red, round, and magnificent he cast his ruby rays like the gentle glow of the tablow. On we slowly wound our way over low mountains and rugged paths and through the deep mud, all day long with out even a rest for dinner. It was quite cold until after noon. There were seven of us in all on this trip, two katarjis and 5 passangers, 5 horses and 2 asses. We came in sight of Aintab[72] about sunset and just off to the right on a little hilltop we spied two men who, answering to a wave of my hat and an American “yell” rushed down to meet us and I there had the pleasure of shaking the hands of Pres. F. F. Hintze and Pres Philip S Maycock. They received me with a warm welcome and I was then introduced into the fine headquarters of the mission and thuse ended my journey as written on the fly leaf of this little book.

Letters awaited me from my wife dated Aug 14, W. B. Smith Aug 22 Independance Mo. and John Hunter Aug 22, Winsdor South Carolina. Met with the Saints in meeting at night and spoke. Pres Hintze translated. Thanks to the Lord for my safe arrival.

Bicycle Tour of the Holy Land[73]

For a while at the turn of the century, the missionaries experimented with a form of transportation virtually unknown in the rural areas of the Middle East at that time: bicycles, or “wheels” as they called them. Booth and two other missionaries, Albert Herman and Thomas Page, embarked on a two-month bicycle tour of the mission that began in Aintab, Turkey, and continued to Aleppo, Damascus, Beirut, Caesarea Philippi, the Sea of Galilee, Nazareth, Haifa, and back to Aintab. This turned out to be a memorable adventure that included a collision with a terrified donkey; a crash on a precipitous mountain trail that left clothes torn and limbs bleeding; mobs of angry rock-throwing villagers; exotic foods like sheepshead soup and buffalo milk; suffering from inclement weather, malarial fever, and poor sleeping accommodations; out-pedaling Gendarme officers on horseback; and, most of all, the sheer exhilaration of wheeling around the Holy Land.

October 9, 1900 (Tuesday) [Aintab]

Just about noon we were made glad by the arrival of the long lost and long looked for missionary, Pres. Albert Herman, who had come from Utah last spring, remained in Stamboul till July, left for Aintab by way of Angora [Ankara], Sivas & Marash. He came with a bicycle and gave a pleasant account of his travels through the interior of this wild country. Y.M.A. was held and I gave a lesson on “Betheny to Jeruselam.” Pres Herman also gave some good council and advice.

October 11, 1900 (Thursday) [Aintab]

Our Bicycles, sent for last April, arrived early in the morning, and we took a ride out toward the college. The people were greatly astonished to see men going over the road at such spead on lifeless horses. They stared, yelled, and followed us as if we were from another world. We went to the Charsha, received mail and Bro Page sold a draft for [blank] pounds sterling. A number of papers, a letter from my wife with a photo of Arthur McDaniel Jr., born in the “Pinto Palace,”[74] came. Also a letter from Dr Arminag. A number of the brethren spoke in Testimony meeting also Bro Herman & myself.

October 12, 1900 (Friday) [Aintab]

Pres. Herman & I went out to Artins “Bag” and spent most of the day with him and Levon <Sarkis> and Kocher. Took the wheels and as we returned we rode out toward Kuzal Asar.

October 17, 1900 (Wednesday) [Aintab]

Arose early and went out to Kusal Asur, about 6 1/2 miles from Aintab, making the round trip in 1 hour and 20 minutes, on the wheel.

October 19, 1900 (Friday) [Aintab]

Rode our wheels down to Moses Hinduians and gave his wife 1/2 a mejedi on sickness acct. Moses has just left the hospital. Bro. Herman sold a Draft for Twenty pounds Sterling.

October 20, 1900 (Saturday) [Aintab]

Wrote a letter to my wife and the folks telling them that I am expecting to take a trip to Palestine with Pres Herman and Elder Page on our wheels. The affair is not yet decided.

October 22, 1900 (Monday) [Aintab]

Garabet Arzhunian came & washed all our rush matts. Bro Page & I took a ride out beyond Kuzel Asur to test the road for Bicycles. Talked gosple to two school teachers who called in the evening.

October 23, 1900 (Tuesday) [Aintab]

Went with Elder Page out for a ride to explore the road toward Berijek. The children were much excited as well as older people, at the sight of such curious riders. We came back through one of the charsha’s where we made a great stir. Out on the road we frightened a donkey laden with a plow and a bag of grain. The animal fell & broke the pack saddle which cost me 100 para for damages, voluntarily given. In Y.M.A. in the evening many of the members bore their testimoneys and I practiced a hymn with them.

October 24, 1900 (Wednesday) [Aintab]

In the afternoon Bros. Herman, Page & myself went out to Kuzel Asur and through the village where we saw some of the industry of the people. It was the time of the vintage and the turning of the grapes into [tracle?] was the great work of the inhabitants. We were treated to grapes and honored very much by the astonished islams of Kuzel Asur.

October 25, 1900 (Thursday) [Aintab]

In a little ride alone out on the main highway I suddenly rode up to a crowd of villagers coming into town with their animals laden with produce for the market. One of the donkies frightened and in his attempt to escape from the aproach of the Bicycle, stumbled, fell, and the lode went rolling in the dirt. It was <melons &> eggs and the sight was a mixture of unsavory proportions. It cost me 50 paras for the eggs and I told him to bring the broken melons to our house and we would buy them.

October 29, 1900 (Monday) [Aintab]

We decided that I & Bro Holdaway were to accompany Pres. Herman to Jeruselam but Bro Page offered the latter a suit of cloths for the chance & so he prepared to go. I borrowed 5 li[ra]s from Bro Page.

October 30, 1900 (Tuesday) [Aintab]

We visited the saints & bid them good bye for a time. Made preparations for our departure Y M at night and the new officers were installed. After meeting we were busy till a late hour packing up and settling accts and giving advice to the saints.

October 31, 1900 (Wednesday) [Aintab to Kilis by bicycle]

“Bud Berader”[75] came yester’s voice as the katirji was heavily rapping at the outter door, and we were all soon astir in the early hours making our first movement on the first day of our journey to the Holy City some 350 miles to the south, and west.[76] We sent our baggage by horse to Killis and [at] 1.35 oclock ala Turk. We mounted our wheels and rode away amid many selams. There was a touching affection in the hand clasp and the parting words of some of the saints to whome we have become so well familliar. The journey to Killis was uneventful save the trouble of the bad road and our tenderness in a hard days travle. Arrived at sunset and stayed with Garooch Bezjian, a family of saints.

November 1, 1900 (Thursday) [Kilis to Afrin Khan by bicycle]

After a good rest we prepared for our journey and on our way through Town we called at the seray and tended to some business with our “yal Tezkera’s”[77] and gave the official a good scoaring for some impertanient work he has been carrying on with our brethren through entertaining the missionaries etc. (See June trip to Haleb.) Garooch was imprisoned last week for entertaining Elders Holdaway & Mangum. At 7. (noon) we set out on a trip to Alexandretta. My self & Bro Page were selected to go to that Port and see about sending the carpets to Utah. Pres Herman was to remain in Killis one day and then go on to Haleb. There was a heavey breeze in our faces and the traveling was slow but we reached Afrin Khan early in the evening. Had a scrap with the Khanji[78] but soon made arrangements to stay for 1/2 medjideh for room & beds. We rested well and slept soundly. “Bro Booth, come lets get up, its 6 oclock” said my companion as the moon light came peeping through the clouds in the western sky making it like daylight. We arose prepared for the days journey, had prayers and were just considering whether or not we would be caught in the rain when I looked at my watch and lo it was nearly 7, but ala Turk, only midnight. Our sleep was continued till morning.

November 2, 1900 (Friday) [Afrin Khan to Beylon by bicycle]

Started at 1 ala Turk and had breakfast at Hammun where we arrived at 3.40, 29 killimeters. Stayed 45 minutes. Arived at Marat Pasha at 5.50, 18 k. Ate mellon 15 minutes, and at 7.15 reached Kurk Khan, 14 k, where we dined and rested till 8.35. At this place we met a young man who was surveying for the Gov. and he gave us information of the road.

That afternoon we passed Souguk Su Tabos Ass., summit 600 meters high, and reached Beylon at 1 oclock, 21 k. Bro Page became tired while climbing the hills and I took both wheels part of the way up. We were provided with good beds at the (Iuma?) Hotel.

November 3, 1900 (Saturday) [Beylon to Alexandretta by bicycle]

On acct of the steep grade we walked a good share of the way down the mountain and reached the sea Port Town Iskenderoon. (Alexandretta) at 5. Made the decent in 2 hours, 15 k. After a good dinner we called on the U.S. Consul W. Ross Davis and were kindly received. Tended to the business, appointed Moses Asjian our agent with Power of Attorney and left the shipping of the carpets with him. After being out in the Interior for nearly 2 years it seems much more European to get into this city than it did at my first visit in Dec. 1898.

November 4, 1900 (Sunday) [Alexandretta]

Spent most of the Day with Mr Davis in viewing the sights and conversing with him on various topics, chiefly that of the gosple while sitting at the consulate in the after noon. He is a fair minded man and seemingly unprejudiced.

November 5, 1900 (Monday) [Alexandretta to Kurk Khan by bicycle]

Called again on Mr. Asjian, also at the Consuls and then went out passed the licorice factory and had a fine bath in the salt sea. After a good dinner we put out for Haleb and reached Kurk Khan just after dark. I tried to ride the wheel down the mt. but the grade was very steep and one place I fell & cut my face.

November 6, 1900 (Tuesday) [Kurk Khan to Aleppo by bicycle]

Election Day in America. Who will be the Winner?

Bro Page & I set out before day light and made the trip to the Killis road by 10.50 when I decided to go right on to Aleppo. We had traveled slow most all day & I was tired of that gate so sped away at a lively rate. Bro P remained at Kufer Altun where I engaged a room for him. Made the distance from this Khan to Haleb in 2 hours & 10 minutes. 39 killimeters. The days journey was 124 k.

Took supper at Sarkis Desjians <with Pres Herman.>

November 7, 1900 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

Bro Page arived in good time. Tended to some business, wrote a letter to Holdaway & Mangim and rode to the P.O. and around the khali[79] on my wheel. Several of the saints spent the evening with us at the church & we appointed a special meeting for tomorrow.

November 8, 1900 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

Wrote a letter to C. C. Hackett and the folks at Alpine and enclosed a few (40) melon seeds from a lucious melon which we ate at Afrin Khan on the night of Nov 1. Went to the Charsha, Bot a shirt for 19 piastres, 2 handkerchiefs, 3 p. & a pair of pants for 80 piastres. Held testimony meeting at night where I spoke with a number of the brethren.

November 9, 1900 (Friday) [Aleppo]

Visited a few families of the saints. Wrote to Pres. P. D. Lyman. Dr Arminag came at night and we talked over the condition of the Saints.

November 10, 1900 (Saturday) [Aleppo]

Went with the Dr to his operation work at Dr Altounyans.[80] The first time seeing such sights was very impressive. 4 operations were performed which lasted from early morning till afternoon. 4 Drs were in attendance besides several attendants & I was permitted to stand a close observer during the major part of the time. The first was an aged woman who was affected with a tumor of the spleen. Before chloriform was administered the left side was punctured twice and after being anasthecisized a gash was cut a little to the left of the navel about 9 or 10 inches long. The fat was nearly 2 inches thick and the organ of the abdominal cavity was exposed with a large tumor which was lanced but it was decided not to remove it and the terrible opening was again stiched up. The patient was uneasy although much cloriform was used. The second was a young man of 17 years with a abces near the kidneys. The right side a little above and back of the hip bone was opened and the operation was over in a few minutes. The third was another old lady [with] a tumor in the breast and one under the arm. The whole left breast was cut away and the knife run along to the arm pit making a fearful looking wound nearly a foot long. The operation was performed with such fimiliarity and skill that it seemed almost like heartless carelessness. O it was more like butchery than I have seen for many a day. The 4th paitient was a little girl with a small accumulation in the throat and was not an important case.

In the afternoon we got word from Mr Davis, U S Consul at Alexandretta, that McKinley was re elected. Sold a Draft No. 96 <(torn from Book)> on Platte D. Lyman for £10 to Sarkis Shill Hogopian,[81] one of the saints here. Paid Bro Page his 5 li[ra]s borrowed on the 29 ult. <Paid Nursia in full of acct.>

November 11, 1900 (Sunday) [Aleppo]

Spoke most of the time in morning meeting, following Elder Page. Bro Herman took the time in afternoon services. Elder Arminag was appointed and sustained as Pres. of the Aleppo Branch. Visited several families and took supper & spent the evening at Bro Sarkis Shil Hagopians (Dishjian). Talked gosple to other visitors, <Shamuel’s father.> Prepaired to take our departure for Palestine to morrow.

November 12, 1900 (Monday) [Aleppo to Zerba by bicycle]

We arose early but waited till late in the morning for our katirji, Hadji Achmid Akim, whom we engaged to take our baggage through to Demascus for 7½ medjedies. We paid him 2½ in advance. A great crowd gathered to see us start and several of the Saints accompanied us out to the S. W. part of the city to bid us good bye. On learning the road I returned for the mail and obtained a letter for Bro Herman. On acct of having a Bicycle, the Post man favored me by looking over the Aintab mail. I was soon with the Brethren again and had gone but a short distance when my front tire was punctured which caused a short delay, and we remained behind the katirji and got on the wrong road. As we came down to an unbridged stream Bro Page gave his wheel to a man with donkey to carry across and thinking ourselves to cross also by the same means, but when the first byke was over he returned and demanded nuse <½ > medjediea before he would do any more for us. Our shoes were soon off and then we waded the stream only to find soon after that we were on the wrong side. We followed down and <re>crossed at Khan Teman where we had been told to meet the muleteer but he had already passed on. I was told that Apostle Lund was robbed of several liras at this khan more than 2 years ago.

We went on and reached Zerba early in the day, and put up at the Khan. All the houses here a[re] cone shaped and built of mud. Rode around the village twice and as I was coming in the last time I overtook a funeral procession and went on to the cemetery where the grave was being dug by 4 or 5 men. The pall bearers came singing a dirge to the time of their step and on reaching the sepulchor left the corps[e] to one side and were all attracted with me and the wheel, appearantly forgetful of the sad errand on which they had come out. That night the khan was crowded, 14 in all sleeping in the same place. It was a large room resembeling a coal kiln of the west, but also had an other appartment joined by a large opening and filled with straw etc. We had bu[lg]ur only for supper. A woman came and made her bed next to me but seemed as innocent and fearless as though my trowsers and no more had been within her near vicinity. The whole place was a black smokey dirty uninviting bed room.

November 13, 1900 (Tuesday) [Zerba to Khan Zibil by bicycle]

Left Zerba at 2.10 ala Turk and rode out a few mile[s] when we stopped and had lunc[h] on the way at a village, Shek Hamid, at 3.15. Fairly good rodes with long stretches of plain. The soil is redish and good. Stayed 50 minuts at this place from where we passed a deep well around which were <rock> troughs, and the water was drawn by animals. Ice was near the curbing. Ancient caves are found along the way, some of which shew signs of wealth and great skill in hewing stones.

At 5.10 we reached Serakib where we ate melon and obtained a room in the khan thinking it was our stopping point, but learning our mistake we went on after 50 minutes rest. A few stones were hurled at us as we left the village but no damage. A short distance from Serakib is a well by the way side which furnishes water for another village over a hill. As we stopped here a few minutes we saw 6 women coming to draw water and assited them in their unique way of drawing it up with their long ropes and leather buckets. Drinking we rode on amid the merry shouts of the astonished damsals, and reached Khan Zibil at 8 oclock. This village is a small one built on a hill and can boast of little attraction. Engaged a room, ate a melon, bought some old coins and took a walk. As we sat talking to some of the villagers on a well curbe, an officer rode up mounted on a fine Arabian mare. He was polite and soon engaged us in a friendly talk on war etc but we knew but little (purposely) of that topic. He warned us against buying old coins etc as it was against the law and took several from the natives who had been trying to sell to us. He rode away out of sight from us and in a few moments came dashing up again and with his whip drove the by standers from our presense and told us he would show us the way to Ma’ara—the next village at which a garrison was stationed. He charged us with a few minor offences and commanded us to accompany him. Bro Herman quckly told him that we would not go & spoke so boldly that it had the effect of his going and leaving us. Ate Bu[lg]ur again for supper and retired early.

November 14, 1900 (Wednesday) [Khan Zibil to Hama by bicycle]

When we got ready to start we had to wait some time for our land lord to get through with his prayers <to pay him.> The Muslims are a praying people. More tombes and caves along the way, 1 hour out, are still better than those we passed yesterday. Reached Ma’ara in 2 hours where we had breakfast. Here is one of the largest Khans I have seen in Turkey. It appears to be a very old city but much stir and bustle and work. Left 4.45. Reached divid[e?] at 6.35 and in 15 minutes suddenly came on to Khan Shekune a thriving village on and near a high mound. A great water cistern is here and the place is rather attractive. The Kanji was a stout pleasant old fat man. Ate a mellon at 7.30. Left the village amid a wild yelling mob of about 300 who followed us to the out skirts of their mud city and gave us a send off with a shower of stones, some of which struck my companions with rather more than love tap force. Being in head I turned and witnessed the flying missils, soon dismounted and engaged, mokingly, in the great uneven battle, but it was a case of one putting hundreds to flight.

Came on at a good speed and at 8.50 our eyes caught sight of the Orontes River gently winding through its deep, wooded gorge to the right and into which we decended, followed the River about 12 miles up to the famous city of Hama.[82] As we were nearing the place coming down a piece of smoo[th] road, an animal frightened of our curious apearance came near unloading a woman and child which raised a great excitement among the travelers with whom she was going. One wild man of the desert drew a revolver to stop Bro Page who came in last to the scene of action. It passed all away with no harm. We called at the Serai and an officer accompanied us from there to the Maukef Hotel—a well furnished Cafa on the main street. Our enterance <into the city> excited the town. Hama is the ancient Hamath, the N. boundry <or frontier> of Solomons kingdom. It lies nestled snuggly in <the> narrow valley of the Orontes amid luxuriant gardens and groves of varried trees and among and around the striking hights where ancient castles stood guarding the garrisons of this paradise of Northern Syria. The monsterous water wheels lifting the circles to the tree tops and stealing from the passing stream the water that has helped to drive them and dumping it into elevated acquiducts which carry it to the thirsty fields and flowers on either side of the banks, are unceasingly creeking their monotonous songs on the ear.

November 15, 1900 (Thursday) [Hama]

Had a milk & honey breakfast in a little crowded dirty room more fit for fowls than even moneyless tourists. Took in the sights, called on a tailor and ordered a pair of pants for 40 piastres. Ascended the old castle Hill, visited a mosque and other places of interest. <It rained some while out.> On invitation we visited Demitrius Kuri Musa (the tailor) & family to whome we talked on the gosple all the evening till late.

November 16, 1900 (Friday) [Hama to Homs by bicycle]

Met Tafa Salamun, a Dr who could speak english and had met Elder Hintze. Ordered Pictures of Hama sent to Haleb but the Photographer would not take any money for them. He was well informed and said he was the only Roman Catholic in the city.[83] We bore testimony to him. The Gov officials here had warned us not to go on the road without a soldier and we accordingly notified them of our intention to start and at 8 oclock (1 p.m.) we left the beautiful city of Hama walking out to the top of the hill a mile from the city. The soldier was late gitting his horse & at 8.30 he was not in sight. A large crowd of people followed us out of town to see us mount and ride away. Bro Page got ahead and left myself and Bro Herman with the anxious multitude. At the top of the hill we had no more than mounted when we were in such a storm of stones that further progress was dangerous, one large rock stricking a spoke in my wheel and cutting it in two It was really a serious condition we were in, and this time as at Khan Shekune [I] dismountd and hurled a few missils with an angry force at the cowardly fleeting ignorant set of hudulums that at the last moment gave us a rather unfavorable impression of the inhabitants of the city whose cenery had given us such much pleasure the past few days.

The roads were splendid, but the weather at this place was hot and as we sat by the way side a few miles out of the city eating a large mellon our zabtia[84] came along with a puffing perspiring steed of the Arab stock, but we left him far behind again and were soon in sight of the River where we recrossed at Restan <at 10> and ate another melon. Restan is a pretty village in a hill passed which the road makes a <semi> circle over the bridge and through the deep gorge out on to the plain where fields stretch out as far as the eye can follow the beeline furrows of the plowman. Basalt is used at Restan for building and Pudding stones are found alon[g] the way. A few villages were passed and at 12.15 we rode into Homs and put up at the Khan Jindi, a very large and neatly built place. Had a fine mess of fish for supper, and sat up till very late writing my journal and drying our bedding which had been wet with the rain.

November 17, 1900 (Saturday) [Homs to Burej by bicycle]

Took in the sights through the Bazar a few minutes & at 3.45 <(ala turk)> left for another days journey. A new soldier accompanied us. The weather was cool and pleasent this morning. Snow covered the cap of high peaks on the right. The Lake of Homs lay in sight a few miles to the west which we passed at 4.30. Many desperate looking hords of travelers were passed whos <actions> reminded us that we woud better keep within easy reach of our guard. In passing one of these crowds of about 40 or 50 men, a few of them ran along by our side, caught my wheel and one soon thrust his hand into my pockett but was unsuccessful in his crafty work. About noon we reached Hasia, a small village owned by a wealthy man into whose house we were received and served, free, to a good lunch & rest.

Left here at 9.50 with new Soldier & horse and rode over a rough country broken by hills & rocks to Burej (little Tower) <at 11.30> a small village near the south end of a valley by which we had passed to the left. Ate grapes 15 m. and then decided to remain for the night. Bro Page & I walked out on a hill to survey the surroundings. The farms of Burej lie off to the east near the desert. At sunset out in this little unpretending village where one would hardly suppose the poor peasants has yet learned the devine nature of a prayer, from the little miniret near our lodging room, rang out the old familliar hymn of the Islam. (la ilaha ill Allah, wa Muhammedu - rrasul - Allah.)[85]

November 18, 1900 (Sunday) [Burej to Nebk by bicycle]

As we could do but little good in Burej on a sunday, we concluded to travel an hour or two and rest the day at another place, and also be able to meet our Katirji and have our own bedding at night, which we missed last evening. At 1.50, sunrise, we put out and reached Kara in 1½ hr. I had breakfast here in this little white city on a hill near a fine stream of water. The crowed which assembled to see us start away was more polite and civilized than <those> on former occassions. Left at 4 and spun over good rodes but undulating ground for 1 hr when we put up at the Khan near the village of Nebk, where both Christians and Muslims live. In walking through town we met a Christian Gov. official, Abdallah Jabboor, who accompanied us to the home of Mr Stewart Crawford, a Presbyterian missionary, with whom we enjoyed a pleasant conversation. Latter they both called at the Khan to see us. Had tough chicken and bu[lg]ur for supper.

November 19, 1900 (Monday) [Nebk to Damascus by bicycle]

We were off for Demascus at 2.30 <ala Turk.> In just an hour we were near the village Halbo[..]n where a number of women who seemed to lack every thing but food, filth and old age, had come down to the road to serve travelers with a rehash of dried grapes, bread, Bekmez[86] & Yogurt. For a few cents we dinned at this unwalled and unupholstered eating stand and tasted of their savory dishes, one of which a smell was all sufficient—Potato soup which Bro Herman declared was cooked last winter. 25 minutes for lunch.

In a few minutes we reached the devid[e] and had a long down slope of the finest rodes yet traversed, some of which were through hills <of curious formation> and almost as smooth as paved side walks. To the right towered a range of hills crowned with projecting clifts which stretch for miles along the barren hill tops. The caravans were numerous along this route. Passed an old Khan at “The spring of Figs” at 5.10 and in a few minutes were out in sight of a little Salt Lake off to the east of the valley into which we had suddenly plunged. Across to the south down a beautiful straight turnpik[e] about 2 miles long lay the village of El Kutifa at <the junction> of our road and that leading off to Palmyra—“Tadmor in the wilderness.”[87] Reached El Kutifa at 5.35, remain 1 hr 10 min for rest and dinner. An old man, the khanji, told us his son had 6 wives.

A short ride brought us to the divide and after a nice run down through the hills the plain of Demascus burst open to view at 7.45. To the east and south stretches the great desert with a few small lakes at the edge greedily holding the few waste drops [that] seep from the irrigated environs of Demascus. The western sky drooped over in stillness and hung her serulian veil beyond the clear cut tops of the Lebnan Mt. Still decending into the valley we reached at 8 oclock Khan Hiash where we took a drink of water at <an> encased well, changed soldiers and were off at our best speed, racing with the owner of a lively steed who seemed to envey the lifeless alacraty of a byke. While rushing along at high speed, a donkey ladden with a heap of green feed from a <near> farm heard the noise and suddenly rushing to the wrong side crossed my path and a great collision was the result. I fell, cutting my right hand & left knee and tearing my clothes on the hard ground. Broke the springs short off the seat and all in all was a great surprise. As I neared Demascus I thought Paul was not the only one who had been called to a sudden halt in the vacinity.

Gardens and groves, orchards and fields hemed in the road on either side and notwithstanding the days of Autumn the scenery seems like coming spring. When our eyes rested on Hama we called it Paradice. Let that name remain but we must say with the Arab of the Desert, that Demascus is the earthly reflection of Heaven above. Reach Harasta at 9.05 where we feast on quine and apples 40 minuts and slowly enter the <city> winding through the shady bowers and at 10.20 are right in street—the famous street, the street that is called Straight. Roamed about 2 hr looking for good quarters and at last settled at Hotel De Damas for the night.

November 20, 1900 (Tuesday) [Damascus]

Went to <the> Hammam, a neat little place where marble of white and black & red spread out their shinning faces on the floor and the walls, the dom[e]s and the fountains were tastefully decorated. I was not able to get about much on acct of my leg so sat & read and repaired my wheel, while the tailor mended my pants. We found a room at Emir Pasha Khan and met our katirji, received our baggage and paid him in full for his trip 7½ medjedies. From the top of a high building I ob[t]ained a pretty view of the west where the sun was just sinking behind a brillient display of the brightest shinning golden clouds in cumulo stratus form that I ever saw. The scene was doubly interesting for Mt Hermon towered near in silent rememberencs of the long past oft told stories of Israel.

November 21, 1900 (Wednesday) [Damascus]

Leg still sore. We walked out to the Barracks, the station, P.O., Serai where we showed our papers to the officials. Visited the big mosque in course of completion after a destructive fire several years ago, the “Tomb of John the Babtist” is a beautiful peice of work but the marble sculpturing in the Prayer niches are simple beyond my power to tell <of their> delcate skillfulness.

Bro Page & I purchased some Photoes visited the House of Anninas and the Wall of St. Paul just out side the east-gate of the city. The former place is about 150 yds from Straight St. down at the E end and to the left as you go out. A boy was sent with us with instructions to show us these two places. After visiting the “House of A,” where now is a catholic school in honor of the old occupient of 1800 years ago, we were taken by our little guide to the gate and told that this was where Paul was let down in a baskett We had just before bought a picture of the place and comparing them found it was not the same place at all so he took us farther out and around the wall to the S.W. a few hundred yds where the place is said to be that, held in tradition, of the Escape of the Great newly converted Apostle of the Lord Jesus. We spent some time in a garden reading etc.

In the evening met 2 young men from Aintab, Moses and Varton, (see July 2) who took us to see Garabet & family, sister & brother in law of Avid[..] Kulluksuzian. They have 4 nice children. Also talked with some lady school teacher.

November 22, 1900 (Thursday) [Damascus]

Bros Herman & Page left in the morning for a visit to Baalbek & Beirut. I was too lame to attempt the trip and so remained and wrote my journal from the time we entered into Hamma to date. Just now at 2.40 ala Frank I am sitting alone in a little room about 8 x 8 ft and 12 ft high. The door leads in from the upper porch by a stare case down to the floor. One window looks out to the south and past it flows in gentle murmuring ripples the Barada River. The Khan is like most others—dirty throughout and not free from undersiable vermin. Wrote a letter of 8 pages to the Gleaner at Alpine, Utah, U.S.A.[88]

November 23, 1900 (Friday) [Damascus to Ba’albak by bicycle]

My days rest yesterday was very benifical and this morning I am feeling able to travel again. Wrote a letter to Minnie Moyle, Alpine, and at 11 a.m. ala Frank, mounted my wheel and started for the Lebnon Mts. for sight seeing. The road is splendid most of the way but a little steep on the west side of the Anti Lebnus as we decend into the Beka’a. In 15 minutes I had passed the great orchards and gardens and reached the mouth of the canñon where the Barada bursts <forth> from its rock bound banks into the aluvial plain of Demascus. The scenery is charming as one rides up the narrow valley and passes the peculiar caverns high up in the brown colored ledges, over hung with creeping vines and under growth and gushing cataracts falling from their hights in various streams from drippling softness to splashing cascades, all lending their [might?] to fill the rolling mill-running river as it winds down among the sylvan shades of the Wady Barada.[89]

After an hours ride the road breaks away from the stream and the Rail way track, and turns to the left across a dry plateau and on to the first summit of the Anti Lebnus where I reached at 12.25. In 20 minutes another summit is passed and then decends a little to the right of the village Damas and up the valley passed Methalun <1.05> beyond which is the 3rd summit of the anti Lebnus, 1.20. A rapid decent is made by zig zag roads on which I met many freight wagons hauling iron rails <etc.> from Beirut to Demascus. At the foot of this hill another rockey gorge is entered and leads up to the valley of Ain Jediah, 2.05, where some farming is done. <Green> shrubery again appears among the rough sides of the gorge and herds of gotes are seen feeding on the steep walls. At 2.25 the last summit is reached, and from here the Valley of the Leontes is partially visable. Away to the North <& W.> towers up the bare sides of Lebnon with the ravine cut slopes of Jebel Keneiseh, 6660, while <in> the south the snow clad Hermon lifts its white form to the clouds. The famous ceders of Lebnon are not in sight now but only a few scrub oaks and under brush to veil the sterril surface of the summit.[90]

An hours ride would bring you to the rich fields of the Beka’a, but alas it did not bring me there, for in my decent the grade was too steep and smooth and my wheel seemed full of life to an unmanagable degree and in dismounting I was hurled to the ground <2.40> striking my shoulder and left brow and eye, cutting a great wound into the eye ball sockett from the lower side. My knee wound of last Monday was reopened and there was profuse bleeding from both cuts. I was compeled to walk down to the valley, tied up my head with a handkerchief at Khan Megdal and then sped over the fertile valley crossing the Litany River at 3.40 and reached the Ba’albek rode near Shtora at 4 oclock. I decided to visit Ba’albek so rode on <passed Zahluh &> up the valley <& over the stones> till dusk when I was hailed by an english speaking native who seeing my condition dressed the wound with cotton and rum and I put up for the night at his neighbours—a greek named Nicholas. Slept in a Khan with 2 arab catholics and learned a few words from that Broge.

November 24, 1900 (Saturday) [Ba’albak to Beirut by bicycle]

I was within an hours ride of the famous ruins of Baalbek but it was not my lot to see them. Just as I was starting out I met my companions who came up on the train 2 days ago to Zahlah and were now returning from Baalbek on their wheels. They were on their way to Beirut and advised me to go with them. I was in a poor shape for traveling but decided to accompany them and at 9 a.m. began to retrace my tracks to Shtora where we arrived at 10.40. Sat on bridge and ate oranges a few minutes and then began the ascent of Mt. Lebnon. As we slowly pushed our byks up the smooth diligence road[91] the view of the Beka’a was delightful and the beauty increased with the ascent.

After an hours noon rest and dinner at Ghaffer Khan, we continued, reaching the summit at 2.08 p.m. and once more looking down on the great blue sea now almost hid beneath the clouds of its own vapor. The R[ail] R[oad] makes a tunnel cut here and decends the long slope of the west side of Lebnon. The peaks on each side of the road in the distance are barren and rocky and the whole surroundings present a unfruitful scene. A descent of a few mile and another up grade brings us soon around to a point overlooking the beautiful Wady Hamana with a neat village of the same name containing a large silk factory. From mountain top to the deep rough cavarns of the river rocks and from crest to crest of the wide bastian are seen terraced vinyards and orchards of Olives and mulberries, among which the white walls of the humble homes of the mountain dwellers. Down the slopes for nearly a score of miles the road winds through and past this mingled scene of natures beauty and man’s artistic handiwork. Hotels & summer resorts adorn the way, and as you near the foot, the road curls like great serpants through groves and groves of pines and ever greens and soon shoots through in one straight line for the beautiful city by the sea, Beirut, the pride of the whole coast.

It was long after dark when we arrived as the grade was steep and we walked most of the way down. The well lighted streets and the gay crowds, the brillient cafas and the music of the bands made it seem like we were nearer home than ever amid the charms of Damascus.

November 25, 1900 (Sunday) [Beirut]

We were not early risers that morning for the beds in the Osmanly Hotel were soft and easy after so long and tired a journey as that of yesterday. We had only our old ridding suits and made a very unministerial appearance. I dressed my wounds, bound up my head, washed my coat (for I had purchased a bottle of oil last night and had it all spill in the pockett and on the sofa) and brushed up a little and sallied out for breakfast. The first cook shop I entered was one my companions had just left but the waiter refused to serve me with any food so I found another. We spent the day in sight seeing, sitting on the rocks at the harbor several hours. Started for church in the evening but decided that our looks and dress were more appropriate for our private room.

November 26, 1900 (Monday) [Beirut]

Still took in the sights, visited the printing office and called at a drug store where I bot some medicine for my wounds. In the evening went to hear a german band at one of the cafes. Beirut is a city of about 120,000 beautifully situated on the promontory and enjoys the contrasting scenery of the sea on the west & north and the verdant mountains of Lebnon on the East. Palm trees abound all around in smilling verdure. Parts of the city seem old and still bear the marks <of> by gone days but the main portion is strictly modern.

November 27, 1900 (Tuesday) [Beirut to Khan Megdel by bicycle]

Elder Herman & I left Bro Page in Beirut and after a sheeps head breakfast started back on our journey at 8 oclock in the morning. As we climbed the ascent the scenery was doubly grand all along and we spent 7 hours in reaching the summit. A more rapid decent brought us to Shtora in 55 minutes where <we> had a lunch of eggs & yourt, and rested 30 minutes while it rained and passed away again. A mile or so out of town we met a horseman, frightened the animal and in checking our speed we rolled into each other and were both slightly hurt but nothing serious. We sped along, crossed the Litany again about 5 and reached the north of the canñon just after dark and stayed at Khan Megdel, an uninviting dirty place where a thin mat and a quilt were given to each of us, and after a short chat with some other native travelers around the fire of dried brush, we retired early for the night.

November 28, 1900 (Wednesday) [Khan Megdel to Damascus by bicycle]

Rose early but the morning was not favorable for traveling. Clouds hung close around, the rain was falling gently and a cold wind came whistling down the road. After breakfast it turned out all right and we slowly wound our way once more to the hights of Anti Lebnus. The sun shone out warm and the trip was pleasant all the way. At Dumar on the Barada we stoped for dinner. My trip up the cannon last week was too rapid to see the real beauty of the place but this time we drank in the scenery with a rapturous delight. Reached Damascus at 2.30 and went to bed for rest. Bro. Page arrived by train latter. A lunch of Bread & cheese and Butter was brought to me—the first butter for nearly 2 years.

November 29, 1900 (Thursday) [Damascus to Katana by bicycle]

Thanksgiving Day. I was weary and half ill, but we decided to start out on our journey for the Holy land. We were to pay our new Katirji 100 piasters to take our baggage to Haifa. Left at 12.40 p.m. ala Franga, and rode slowly aloung the foot hills to the South west. The way was bad but new roads were being constructed. The country is dry and rockey and the hills bare but off to the left in the mid valley are trees and villages. Saw 3 deer just before reaching Katana where we stayed all night. Two soldiers accompanied us and ate supper at our table. We slept in a private house. The village is not an imposing one.

November 30, 1900 (Friday) [Katana to El Hadr by bicycle]

The morning was beautiful. We start at 7 a.m. The roads are rockey and get worse the longer we travel. Broke a peddle off my wheel. Along the way we saw men plowing in stoney ground that seemed hopeless for a harvest. At 10.30 we came to a spring stream where cresses grew and there we made a hearty lunch with bread we carried in our coats. Passed Batana at 11.30 then crossed a fine spring fresh [-] from the springs of Mt Hermon which towers to the right. Had dinner at Kefr Hawar—the dirtiest village of <the> plain. I never saw so much of the “animal nature among men” as here. They all seemed to be living in one big pen.

In the after noon, we pass a valley of good soil, then come agan to rockey rodes, and undulating ground, carry our wheels much of the way and plod on through volcanic rocks till after dark and then joyfully come tired and sore footed and lame to the village of El Hadr among the hills. A good supper of Bulghur fitted us for a nights rest. The inhabitants are mostly Druses.[92]

December 1, 1900 (Saturday) [El Hadr to Banias by bicycle]

Bro Page had a sore foot and we tried to hire animals but they were too high and after going for an hour we ordered the soldier to stop the Katirji who had gone ahead so that Bro P could ride. He mounted a yearling mule and tied his wheel on the other pack animal. I rode one of the soldier horses to Megdel esh shems, a village high up in the hills right at the foot of Mt H[ermon]. The roads are extreemly rough and percipiteous leading to this town from both directions. Met a School teacher who spoke english. The women and girls cried “Bakshish” but they cried in vain to us. In descending we cross ledges of rock which look like grey colored slate coke, get sight of Jordan [Valley] at 11.35 a.m.

The soldiers loose the way and Bro Herman gives them a tongue lashing in an Arabo-Turko dialect. Bro Page was of a genteler disposition a[nd] gave the poor fellows a cherech (20 cts) each. Down, down and still down we went, carrying our wheels on our backs. The Castle Hill on the right is passed, we see the old sight of Tell er Kadi (Dan off in the distance) and soon came in sight of Banias, the old city of Caesarea Philippi at 2.40 p.m. Bro Herman quarreled till evening with the House keeper to have the price reduced and finally succeeded by getting the opinion of the city chief who decided that we should pay a lower rate—one half mejdyie per day.

December 2, 1900 (Sunday) [Banias]

Fast Day, which we observed till noon. Copied my journal to date. As a Sunday exercise we read the 16 and 17 chapters of Matt. in English and Turkish and talked on the events therein recorded as having occured at this place and vacinity. How impressive that lesson seemed to day and especially as we walked about and thought and talked the more of it.[93] The old bridge to the S. of the now delapidated city is still in use but ancient looking. The whole archway under neath is hanging with a rich growth of pretty ferns rooted right in the porous rock through which water from the mill race above is constantly dripping. The gulch is bedded with hugh basaltic stones and parts of ruined walls and even granite pillars have fallen from there once exalted pedestals on the banks of the deep creek. From here we wandered to the east of the village and passed under old olive trees and down to the great cavarns in the rocks where once stood the temple of Pan. The cave is a deep rugged opening with formidable hangings of the blue ledge. Just beneath is the beautiful spring bursting suddenly from the earth, a stream I judge of 1500 galons per minute and forming one of the chief sources of the Jordan. We drank heartily of the clear liquid and sat by the great natural fountain while we talked of things surrounding us. Ascended the hill and overlooked the city a[s] the sun went down.

December 3, 1900 (Monday) [Banias to El Mellaka by bicycle]

Soon after 8 a.m. we left the old time spot in the corner of the upper Jordan valley passing down from the bench on which the magnificent city of the Tetrarch, Philip once stood in honor of Ceasaer Agustus. Our expences amounted to 44 piastres. <Two new soldiers, cherkass,[94] accompany us.> All around here are [-] trees, olianders, and Silver poplars and Olive groves making the scene a pleasant one. A mile or two <W.> from Banias is the old sight of Dan now known as Tell El Kadi—The hill of the Judge. <Some trees are here also.> A fine spring nearly twice as <large as> that at Banias bursts out at the foot of the hill while all the vacinity abounds in minor springs making the path swampy but the rocks render it passable. We carried our wheels part of the way across the valley. Met Medejis H Anders & wife of Boston with a large force of attendants, pack mules etc on their way to Damascus. Passed over Jordan at the Bridge of El Ghajar at 10.25. The stream is clear and flows through a deep gorge at this point.

Nooned by a little rush village on the west side of the valley near a dry hill to the north. Our meal was corn bread and fried eggs <bot> from the beduins.[95] From this point we found better roads and were able to ride most of the way down at the foot of the mts bounding the west side of the valley. Copious springs, clear & cold & pure, are passed in great numbers but they only add latter to the malarial breeding swamps of the plain. Cattle by the thousands feed and wallow in fields and marshes.

At 4.30 we reached the Beduian village El Mellaka. Our sudden appearance on the wheels astonished them greatly and a hearty welcome was soon extended. A stream about 2½ ft deep and 50 yds wide leding passed the rush huts and winding slowly on to Lake Haleh a short distance to the east and South. <On> this stream were a few boats and we were carried on the backs of the Arabs to a little cannoo and rowed across to the opposite side to the tent of the Shiek who entertained us as guests for the night. This tent was made of a rush matting wall about 4 ft high and covered with a black coarse woolen texture stretched roof like along the tent covering several rooms, in all about 60 <- 70> ft long. Rush mats covered the floor excep a small place in the center of the room for a fire. Bright colored cushions were also spread about the room displaying more than average wealth. The Shiek, an old gre[y] bearded vetran, sat in his tent door as solemn as Abraham when the ang[el]s appeared. He was a dignified old fellow, well dressed in Arab costume with long cloak and <a> yellow covering held on the head by a black wool turbin reaching twice around. As he looked out upon his herd of buffalo and other animals tied for the night near the door of the tent he coughed with a consumptive sound that seemed to add an air of importance to his Arabic words and commands. Supper was soon brought on a large metal plate and the 6 of us, we and the soldiers and the Khatirji, ate that common meal bulghur.

After supper and the usual smokes and coffee drinks had been passed, a long stemed mandoline of crude workmanship was drawn from a [sack], a young boy picked the strings with astonishing dexterity.[96] Then another one took it and several joined in singing Arabic songs for half an hour. At this point the scene changed & two of the number came forward, the main crowd making room in a large ring before the tents open side, and prepared to entertain us with a dance. The acting was interspersed with pantomime appealing for money and those who refused to give were treated with a [heinous] insult by the performer. The whole performance was low and vulgar and unfit for description in a journal.

December 4, 1900 (Tuesday) [El Mellaka to Tiberias by bicycle]

Our breakfast was easily prepared. A fryer full of Buffalo milk heated, and eaten with wooden spoons. A few small corn cakes saved from yesterdays dinner served to thicken the milk. Our supper, lodging, & breakfast were free, a work of true Hospitality for which the Beduins are noted.

We left at 7.20 in the morning. The air was cool but not cold. As we got out a mile from the camp we dismounted and had prayers. When we caught up with the soldiers & Khatirji we found them by a slue looking down on our baggage but the mule was deep in the mud under his load. Little damage was done and we were soon off again. Passing a small boy on the waters of Meron we soon came <8.30> to the pretty little town of [Yesud?] Hamal, a Jewish colony on the edge of the Lake.[97] 50 families are here and the people present a striking contrast in their pleasant homes from the wild Arabs around them. We were warmly received here. A nice lunch of bread, eggs, radishes & oranges served up free and we went on our way rejoicing. Lewes Levosghia, the merchant, was the name of the good man who fed us. The streets of this thriving colony are shaded by the stately Eucalyptus and the air is perfumed by the sweet and dainty Ăcācia. The land is rich in all this vacinity and <the> Lake abounds in fish & game, but the people tell us that the heat is very great during the summer.

Took a bath in the sulphur spring where the river enters the narrow gorge a few hundred yds from the lake. Just before noon we passed Jur Ben at Yakob, where our caucassian[98] guards deliver us safely over to another soldier who accompanies us farther on. At this place the road breaks away from the river and leads up over the hills to the right. We walk or ride as the paths permit and at 1.30 reach the out skirts of Ros Pina the largest of the <5> Jewish Colonies in this country. Get a drink of fine water and pass on to the south leaving the village to the right at the foot of the abrupt hills and in 20 minutes, at 1.50 p.m. ala Franga, stand on the summit and our eyes catch a glimpse of Galilee—blue Galilee—half hid in the mist of the deep vally below. Lake Huleh was also visable from this same point.

I had long since yearned to gaze upon the sacred waves of Tibereas, the waves that obeyed the voice of the worlds Redeemer and fell motionless at the feet of the fishermen when their master said the words “Be Still.” Since childhood I had wished to walk beside the Sea where the desciples had long ago cast their nets into the deep waters of Ganesseret,[99] and for many a year had I desired to bath among the rolling billows that once rocked the boats from which the Savior taught the multitudes as they stood upon the <rocks> near by shore, and now to see from the hights of Naphtalis hills this placid sheet of Galilee filled my soul with <such> a flood of unspeakable thoughts that silent rejoicing was my only delight.

Down the steep hills among rocks and rugged paths, through acres of Annis growing wild, passed Jubb Yusef—Joseph’s Pit—and on still descending far below the oceans level we came at sunset on the hill that overlooks Tell Hum, the once proude city of Caperneum, and in a few moments we were at the west gate of the New enclosur asking admission from a Catholic German monk. At first he refused, said he had no room, nothing to eat and that it was forbidden ground. After a half hours talk with Bro Herman he opened a room, brought us a fine supper and became our friend at last. About 9 oclock at night, took a bath in the Sea with Bro H. The moon was nearly full and shone down on the placid waters with a silvery mildness seldom seen by evening lovers. The water at first seemed a trifle cold but after plunging out amid the tumbling waves of this autumn’s evening the temperature was pleasant and refreshing. In less than 50 yds from shore I could not bottom the sea. A fine little harber has been constructed by the door leading out from the main enclosure of the place. The Monk who accompanied <us> to the water told us a man was drowned there last winter or spring.

Spent the evening till late in writing the previous pages and reading the accounts in the Gosples, of the Saviour while he labored in and around this district.

December 5, 1900 (Wednesday) [Tiberias]

Arose early and were shown about the premises. Many important ruins are being unearthed and a rich variety of trees and garden plants are boring their roots through soil enriched by the wasted splendor of the long passed. Large white rock said to have been brought from Banias, and worked with sculptoral skill into many an unknown meaning are found burried among the blue stones of more common use in that vacinity.

We left at 7.30 and just outside the west gate by the edge of the sea I plucked a few blades of grass by special request of an Alpine Friend. One palm tree grows near. Passing on along the shore to the west we view with interest the scenes before us. We were not in a hurry but read and talked of the ancient cities and where they might have been, as the location of many of them is questionable to day. Many things point to the spot now known as Khan Minyeh as the sight of Capernium. Ruins of ancient cities lie all along the shore in this direction and but few if any can be located with certainty. Ain El Tabigha with its copious burst of <warm,> brackish water runing the old stone mill, and some 50 rds farther west the ruins are said to be those of Bethsida, the home of Peter, Philip, etal. At this latter place is now the neatly constructed walls enclosing a German Catholic Hospice among a rich growth of selected trees. Seferim Beiver, a tall good natured heavy bearded old gentelman, is the Director.[100] We were served to a free lunch of bread, eggs, soft white chees, jelley & oranges. We left here at 11.10 and ascended the path which runs 50 or 60 ft above the shore and from where a fine view of the lake is ha obtained. An old water way seems to have been chosen for the path leading around the promantory and passed Ain et Tini, another large spring bubbling out from under a percipitous blue rock. Khan Minyeh is a few rds to the N. away from the shore. From here we get a fine view of the Plain of Genneseret stretching back a mile from the lake and 3 miles along its boarder. We went to the spring and into the swamps leasurely viewing the surroundings and then at 12.15 started across the plain. Many streams flow through this rich tract of land but it seems to be idly slumbering till the hand of industry comes again to turn it into life. Oleanders and thorns, with a few black berries, are found along the way which sometimes touches the sands of the beach and sometimes receds among the bushes. Cattle & goats are in abundance. This plain of Genneseret is my ideal spot for a colony. A little farming is now seen, but very poor. About 1.30 we were sitting under a large tree near the village of Magdal, the home of Mary Maddelena, at the south <W.> end of the Plain. The road again leads high along the mt side affording a delightful view of the sea from there around to the mouth of the Jordan and the hills on the opposite side.

In a little plain along the way we were treated to some fine Kabad & bread by a young man in the gardens. Cyprus, oranges & Banana trees loom up in smiling contrast to the rocks above the rode near this place. Many times we sit in the shady path and look down at the pretty blue sheet so clear and deep and placid. About 3.30 we reached Tiberias and found comfortable quarters in the Convent. Had a shave and a change of clothing and for the first time in nearly 3 weeks looked like men of our own standing. Tiberias is a city of 4 or 5 thousand, mostly Jews, and has some fine buildings but is still a dirty looking place in the old quarters.

December 6, 1900 (Thursday) [Tiberias]

After a light breakfast we secured a boat and 4 men to take us across the Lake for 6 francs. Bot some bread & honey and oranges for lunch and paper pens & ink stand & dye and started out at 9.35. The sea was calm and we had a pleasant ride. Wrote a letter to my wife with ink made from the water of the sea. Passed close to Tell Hum but did not land. Returned at 1.30 and visited the hot springs where we took a bath a mile South. The sea grew rough & boisterous just as we were going to bed and the dashing of the waves upon the rocks told how fierce they might be when angered by a heavey wind as is often the case.

December 7, 1900 (Friday) [Tiberias to Mt. Tabor by bicycle]

After a light breakfast we left Tiberias percisely at 8 oclock. The carriage road leading to Haifa winds zigzag up the hills to the west and as you ascend, the view of the Lake is very beautiful. Reached the summit at 9.35. On these hills the soil is rich <but stoney> and extensive plains stretch out in various directions showing the work of the plowman. Passing on we reached at 10.30 a point in the road nearest to the towering peak Karn Hattin, the “Mount of Beatitudes” as some suppose. It was only a short run to the top and leaving our wheels near a bush by the road Bro Herman an I ascend the steep and rockey little emenience in 30 minutes slow walking. A few old ruins are on the top in the shape of cemented tombs or cesterns and a few remains of masonery. The highest point is that of the south end, 1118 ft. This knole is several rods in diameter and would make a nice place for a multitude to stand or sit while listening to the Sermon on the Mt. Toward the north and about 50 ft lower stretches out a plain of 5 to 10 acres surrounded on the West and north by piles of huge loose rocks, which serves as the “horn” on that end, and on the East and North also are a few olive trees giving a pleasing contrast to the bare rock which crown the hill. From the summit of “The Horns of Hattin” can be seen Mt Hermon away to the north, indistinct in the blue air of the distance, and far to the east beyond the shinning sheet of Galilee are the mountains of Hauran. Mt Tabor looms up in the south like a great half moon in shape and covered with oaks and myrtle and rocks. Running down to the Lake of Tiberias and opening near Magdal is the deep ledge bound Wady Hamam, to the south of which lies the fertil plain where Salidin defeated the crusaders in 1187. Sloping away toward the south end of the Lake is another great valley of many squar miles and also to the west the rockey but rich soil spreads out in extensive sections. A herd of sheep feeding among the dry weeds and the anise bunches, is the only sign of life on this Mt. I am favorably inpressed with the idea of it being the scene of the Saviour teaching those great truthes in his Sermon, though any of the other hills around may have been the selected spot.

Take a lingering look at Galilee in her blue ruffeled robes and at 10.50 descend reaching our wheels where the soldier was waiting in 15 minutes. A few miles farther on we leave the carriage road and turn south along the path made or repaired for the German Emperor 2 years ago (He did not come along it) and which leads to Mt Tabor. The hills are slightly rolling but more like elevated plains and through such we traveled till 12.30 when we reach a spring of bad water, an old khan on either side of the road and a fine oak tree just beyond. Crossing another depression we soon descend a valley and through a forest of oaks and soon reach a summit, 1.20, from where we get the first glimpse of the Plain of Esdreloon. 15 minutes more brings us to the path leading up on to Mt Tabor and we spent nearly ½ hour in deciding what to do. As a result of our decission we wind up the long zigzag path pushing or carrying our wheels and in 1½ hours are standing on the Top of Tabor, the great mound at the east of Jezreel. The monks at the <Latin> Monastery received <us> kindly, lunched us on bread & cheese and showed us about the place and through the mighty ruins at the east end of the summit. These monks claim Mt Tabor as the scene of the Transfiguration, and many of the ruins there are in rememberance of that event, Old cesterns, baths, and the “three tabernacles” with under ground structers are remarkably huge. The view from here is splendid. The great plains, Mt Carmal, little Hermon, Endor & Nain, a port of the sea of Galilee, in fact all that lies around is entrancing.

After a good supper, <I wrote a short letter to my folks and> we retired and slept that night in the high air and amid the howling winds of Tabor.

December 8, 1900 (Saturday) [Mt. Tabor to Nazareth by bicycle]

We woke and found it raining, the first shower since last april so the monks said, but they had enough water in their cesterns for 2 years ahead. At 9 oclock we left and in 50 minutes were down the hill. The mud was terrible. I was lame and half worn out but we pushed on over the hills and through the rocks and mud and at 12 oclock noon were on the hill overlooking the city of Nazareth, the ancient home of Joseph and Mary and Jesus, the Sav[i]or of the world. As we passed on we took a drink at the spring and after dinner I went to bed in the Khan for rest. Went to the Hotel at night for supper & lodgings.

December 9, 1900 (Sunday) [Nazareth]

Rose quite early feeling much better than I did yesterday & at 7 oclock went to the Latin “Church of the Annunciation.” The services were in latin except the Sermon which was a very spirited one in Arabic. The building is a stone structure enclosed in an outter wall with other appartments in close proxemity. The interior is richly embelished and is comodious with bare smooth stones for the flooring (see Bediker for plan).[101] The Church is built on the spot claimed to be that of the Annunciation by Gabrial to Mary that she should bring forth a son who would be called Jesus. From here I went to the “House & workshop of Joseph” and then to the “Table of Christ.” Also passed the “Synagogue” but did not get in to see it. Being tired I went to the hotel and laid down for a while. Read several chapters in the bible and studied the history of Palestine some from that sacred book. Bro Herman & I went to the Bazar or market place for dinner. After looking into a number of stew pans and examining their contents offered for our Sunday mid day meal at a number of “Locantas,”[102] we finally setteled on one but were much dissappointed. It was one of the most filthy places for a public eating house that I ever saw. After ordering & sampeling some of the dishes we sent them back and tried others and had new ones ordered and cooked and were “satisfied before we were filled” but still we felt that we were riper in experience for the few (19) metalics it cost us. We made for an orange stand near by and Bro H. having a coin of questionable value succeeded in passing it off for 90 paras <(here 6 metalics)> which the orange man said it was worth. He bot for it 18 large fine oranges and away we went smilling at our good fortune, but we had got only a few rods around the corners when the fruit dealer came yelling “Hemshire, hemshire, bu doksan para dayyle bes yerma para der. Doksan para ichin gechinez.”[103] We kept the oranges and borrowed money from Bro Page to pay for them.

Toward evening we took a walk up on the high peak to the North <W.> of the city. Were treated to cactus figs on our way and also met Rev. Sykes. It was a glorious sight from the Summit of this little mountain. The plain and the sea toward Haifa and Mt Carmel on the west above which was slowly sinking the sun in one of his pretty evening robes of red so often seen in Syrian skies. The mts to the north were hid in clouds but Tabors top loomed up to show her oak crowned brow once more to us. And there on little Hermons slopes is lovely Nain across the fields of Jezereel, while up from the green valley beneath us came the clear tones of the bells, the bark of the dogs, the merry shout of children and the general sound of the multitud mingeled in hum and roar from the city of Nazareth among the hills. It was dark when we reached the German Hotel, another place where we went specially for supper and paid 2 francs each and had the best meal of all our trip from Aintab.

December 10, 1900 (Monday) [Nazareth to Haifa by bicycle]

Wrote a lead pencil note to my folks and at 8.30 with our Katirji and two new soldiers started for Haifa. It was a delightful morning with a fresh cool breeze sweeping down from the east but the sun sent down a summer flush of warmth before the hour of noon. We slowly rode along the summit of the hill leading out into the boarders of the plain, and frequently stood viewing the grandure of the rich country surrounding us. Descending into the valley we passed along the foothills and at 10.45 were resting in the thriving little village of Jeda where about 300 persons are living and making a pretense at modern life and living. Many large new houses and farming land with young orchards present a pleasing contrast from the other rude huts of the Arabs.

Crossing another small bay of the great plain we ascend the oak covered hills which jut up so close to Mt Carmel near the “Hill of the Priests” and about 11.30 reach the summit from where the Bay of Acre may be viewed. At noon we sat on a fine stone bridge which crosses the Brook Kishon and read & took a few notes. The remains of an abandoned R.R. pass along here and the bridge is a handsome piece of masonery. Above this place at this time of the year the Brook is dry but is fed below by springs. Mt Carmel stretches its green and rugged sides along the edge of Kishon and the road passes down the vally between the two. Several small villages are along the way. At 1 oclock we pass the palm trees on the right and in a few minutes are seated at a restaurent tasteing the dainties of Haifa. 5 letters from Edna & Maggie Hackett, Geo & Claras wedding card, Joseph E Moyle & Josie Booth, awaited my arrival at the P.O.* Passing on through the old quarters we entered the German Colony[104] and were soon safely and snuggly lodged with a family of saints, Jacob and Sister Hilt[105] and Elder Grow.[106] The rain came on at night after a short strole down to the harbor.

[Written in right margin] *Bro Page received an order for about $700 in carpets from Z.C.M.I.[107]

December 11, 1900 (Tuesday) [Haifa]

Spent the day in writing letters to Maggie Hackett, & family, Josie Booth, J. A. Holdaway & Esther Orullian. My leg gave me some trouble during the day. More rain fell. Setteled with our Katirji, paying him 192 piastres for the trip from Demascus.

December 13, 1900 (Thursday) [Haifa]

Read Lecture II from same book [Miracle in Stone][108] and studied the Geography of this part of Palestine—Carmel, from bible reading. We posted our letters and called at a place to sell a draft but failed. Went to Cook & Sons and waited till after dark but did not meet the proprietor. The night was extreemly dark and we got lost coming up to our place of lodgings. It rained.

December 14, 1900 (Friday) [Haifa]

Visit Mr. Stroune—the Mt Carmel Soap maker, who kindly showed us through his factory. He also manufactures Olive Oil using the best for sale & export and the inferior for making Soap. Of the latter kind he had about 10,000 gal. in the cestern, and several large jars of the best quality which he sells for 89 cts pr gal. It is made by grinding and pressing the olives and [d]epends for its quality on the quality of the olives.

Bro Page telegraphed to Liverpool for money. In the afternoon we mounted our wheels and rode around the Lake shore to the W. of Mt. Carmel and ascended the hill along the road leading up to the Hotel but we returned before reaching the summit. Bro Herman & I crossed the point and passed the Monestary and down the long dugway to Haifa, while Bro Page took the lower road. He broke his chain. The sight from Mt. Carmel in all directions is a very pretty one.

December 15, 1900 (Saturday) [Haifa]

Called at shoe shops and Smithies to get a little work done and then spent most of the day in reading the Bible.

December 16, 1900 (Sunday) [Haifa]

We held a meeting with the few saints (4 besides ourselves) in Bro Hilts house. Pres. Herman occupied the time & spoke in German. Bro Page & I administered to the Sacrament.

After dinner we visited Sister Caroline Hilt and then walked out to the cemetary where we spent a short time at graves of Elders Haag & Clark, both missionaries from Utah, the former died here in Oct. 1892 and the latter Feb 8, 1895.[109] I plucked a leaf from the green plants growing over each grave and in front of the pretty broaken columns in white marble standing on square pedistels of neatly cut stone at the head of each supulchure. A white plate of marble inserted in the brown pedistal bears a suitable inscription and the words alone make the only difference in the appearance of the two silent monuments.

From here we ascended Mt Carmel and visited the gardens and viewed the great buildings of the Monestary. The fresh balmy air, the rich verdure of the mountain, the roar of the incessent waves dashing and splashing on rocks and sands 500 ft below, the clear blue sheet of the Mediterranean stretching out to the west and the north till its pale cheeks were kissed by the sky & the clouds, and <on> the East, on a beautiful bend of the Bay, lies Hiafa, the little city of white walls, the neat colony of the Germans, the flower pot of Palestine. This scene from Mt Carmel as the sun sank in <a> golden bed of clouds and the sweet music of the happy girls came up from the plain on which they stroled, and the gentle glimmer of the lamp began to streak through the evening shaddows as we sat in <the> mild clime of the historic summit seemed more like a mid summer nights dream than an evening in mid December.

Bro Page received telegram from Liverpool. “Cannot wire money.” In the evening we held testimony meeting where all spoke. I used the German language.

December 17, 1900 (Monday) [Haifa]

I remained indoors all day, and we made some preperations for leaving Haifa.

December 18–24, 1900 (Tuesday–Monday) [Haifa]

I was down most of the time with Malerial fever, also Bro. Page, and on acct of the lateness in our journey, the storms and illness, we have decided to return to Aintab.

December 25, 1900 (Tuesday) [Haifa]

Christmass morning dawned mildly upon us. Sister Hilts kind voice “Guten Morgan” came in my room even before the light of day. Bro. Herman talked on the “Birthday of Christ” in a little service held in the morning. In the afternoon Bro Page & I walked up on the side of Mt Carmel, the first time I have been out for several days. Wrote to J E Booth & May Talmage.

December 26, 1900 (Wednesday) [Haifa]

Walked down town with Bro Page. He received some money from Cook & Sons. Took a little ride on my wheel.

December 27, 1900 (Thursday) [Haifa]

Bot 2 suits underwear for 60 piastres. Wrote cards to my wife & Geo & Clara Stevens Alpine. Had our teskeres vezayed[110] for the return journey.

December 28, 1900 (Friday) [Haifa to Beirut by steamship]

Bid good bye to kind Bro. & Sister Hilt and were assisted to the ship by Elder Grau who took our luggage in the cart to the Harber. Boarded the Helios, an Austrian Loyde S. S. and at 9 a.m. set sail, reached Beirut at 3 p.m. Elder Herman & I landed and got supper, Bot a new journal. Had a row with the Boatman & came back to ship with another one. Wrote a card to my wife from on board. Went to bed in the Harber.

December 29, 1900 (Saturday) [Beirut to Latikeyah by steamship]

As we woke up early found our selves entering the Harber of Tarabalus[111] where we landed for an hour or two, took a carriage and rode up town. The wagon road runs from here to Homs & Hamah. Bot hot milk & oranges. Sailed again and reached Latikeyah where more cargo was discharged. It rained that day.

December 30, 1900 (Sunday) [Latikeyah to Alexandretta by steamship]

Rained during the night and the wind was high and the sea rough as we steamed into the Harber at Alexandretta early in the morning. We landed for 1½ guroush each and put up at the Hotel Casper, our old stand. Spent most of the day with U. S. Consul, Mr Davis, and in evening Bro Page & I went to the New Hammam and had a fine turkish bath.

December 31, 1900 (Monday) [Alexandretta to Kurk Khan by carriage]

The last day of the year and of the century and of those in this little book recorded dawned upon us with a cloudy sky and the rain soon began. We procured provisions for a few days, took breakfast, settled our hotel bill and were soon ready for our last land trip of this long journey of the past two months. About 9 a.m. ala Franga we took <closed> carriages in a heavy rain and started for Killis. We hired the “Arabaji” for 9 mejides. He and his assistant were out all day in the cold wind & rain and must have suffered severly for we sat inside and shivered too. Till nearly night the rain ceased not and the driver called on Allah sometimes every turn of the wheel. We reached Kurk Khan at dusk. Kabab & fried eggs, extra greesy & without relish, equalled supper. Wet bedding & fever but still surrounded by the mercies of God brought me to 1901.

January 1, 1901 (Tuesday) [Kurk Khan to Afrin Khan by carriage]

The New year and the New Century dawned under a coat of clouds that had sent down their countless drops the whole night through but now had ceased with the coming light. The place where the 20th century found me was at the central stopping place in the village of Kurk Kahn at the foot [of] the Mts dividing the Amuk (depression) or great valley of Antioch Lake from the Medeterranean Sea. To the West <& N.,> arose the snow covered peaks whose base was covered with green folliage while away to the south lay the silvery sheet—the Lake of Antioch surrounded with a thousand marshey pools amid luxurant gro[w]ths of rush. The East held the Amuk and hills beyond but all these were hid in mists and clouds. The Khan itself, the mud and the muddy stream that passed by from <the> rain washed mountains and a few surrounding houses, were the only things visable save a few men—our driver, the Khanji, a few waiters asking bakshesh, etc. I was not in good health as I had suffered an attack of Malerial fever two weeks ago at Haifa and was not yet completly recovered. My companions were Pres. Albert Herman & Elder Thos. P Page.

We paid one mejideah for our lasts nights accomodations, had a “scrap” with the Khanji (a usual occurance in Turkey) and left without breakfast for Killis in the carriage of yesterday, a neatly cushened covered cab of strong build drawn by four horses abreast. We set off about the time the sun peeped through a narrow strip ’twixt the horizon and the clouds. About an hour <or two> before noon we arrived at Marat Pasha, a little village of about half a doz <rush & mud> huts. We stopped a few minutes and got a big drink of hot buffalo milk and a piece of bread. I asked one of the leading men of the place “Bu Kijuy de Kach ev var”, = How many houses are there in this village, and he gave the uncertain—decisive answer, “Besh alta hisah etmadim”—“Fi[v]e or six I havent counted them.”

On we went, the roads were a little muddy but well graded across the valley. Passed Hammam near noon and the road became worse. It was sunset when we reached the Khan on the Bank of the Afrin River. The proprieter knew me and gave us a good welcome and a bargin was soon made for the nights entertainment. Our supper was one of Bulgur and oil boiled, but that was all save cold water. Thus ended the Century’s first day and we kneeled down and thanked God for His Mercies and committed ourselves into His Care.

January 2, 1901 (Wednesday) [Afrin Khan to Killis by carriage]

Continued our journey breakfastless but ate a little bread & sardines on the way. My fever turned to chills and I sat wrapped in blanket and quilt in the carriage all day long and arrived at Killis about 3 oclock p.m. We intended to stay with Garooch Bezjian a family of saints, but he had removed to a smaller room since our visit of Oct 31, last. We went back to the Khan and I was soon in bed a very sick man. Chilley, and afterward fever with puking & Purging and thus passed the second day of the Century.

January 3, 1901 (Thursday) [Killis to Keras by carriage]

I was feeling much better in the morning and was able to travel. We secured a katirje, two of them and 4 horses to take us to Aintab for 4 mejides. Had a hot breakfast of sheepshead soup and bread & milk. Garooch Bezjians wife came to see me at the Khan. We started soon after 8 a.m. taking the road over the west hills and then north along the mts to the village on the steep side hill and still on till we struck the other trail near Balak Suyu. It rained nearly all day and the roads were very muddy and me wet and cold and uncomfortable. We arrived at Keras a small village near the way. The Khanji was a Protestant and did us good service in our condition. We had a long discussion with him on the gosple. Bro Page was very ill but I felt much better than last night.

January 4, 1901 (Friday) [Keras to Aintab by carriage]

It was a cold foggy, morning and the mud was awfully bad. On a light lunch of Bulgur we set out on our last days trip of the long journey. A cold wind met us and a fine mist fell most of way. We arrived in Aintab about 2 p.m. and were warmly received into a comfortable room—our former home at Hovhannus’s by Elders Holdayway & Mangum and the saints there. Elder Page went right to bed and after a few hours sitting and talking I took a chill and huddled up in quilt in corner near a mangal. A Priesthood meeting was held at night in the room.

We learned on arrival that our school had been closed and that meetings were held in private houses. It was a pleasure to get back to the old familliar scenes of Aintab and I was truly thankful after such varied experience of the past two month to once more hear the pleasant sound of “khosh gelden”[112] from the Saints.

Toward Home: Zara to Naples[113]

Booth returns home after his first mission to the Ottoman Empire is complete. His return trip is not as eventful as his first journey overseas; however, his farewell is incredibly heartfelt since he did not know at this time that he would ever return. The following entries report the first leg of his journey home, from Zara, Turkey, to Naples, Italy.

April 6, 1902 (Sunday) [Aintab]

The 72nd. Anniversary of the Organization of the church. Early in the morning my release was handed to m[e] by Pres Albert Herman and now after 44 months since leaving home I am ready to turn my face Zionward. Spoke in S.S. and the children also gave review exercises. Practiced singing with the children and with Mariam and Esther and the Elders. Also spoke again in the afternoon meeting following the other 5 Elders present. This was my farewell and parting address to the Saints.

We were buisy all day a[s] we have decided to leave early tomorrow morning. The parting with the people whom I have learned to love and with whom I have labored so long comes hard for me and expecially with some of the more loving and affectionate ones. My prayers are for them for my heart swells in sympathy for such sufferers. Just now a period of wretched poverty seems to have come to try and test them once more. Lord be merciful to them.

April 7, 1902 (Monday) [Aintab]

Once again we were early in preperation for the road and daylight had not dawned when Pres Albert Herman, Elders Henry and Charles Teuscher, Esther Orullian and myself bade farewell to the remaining Elders, J. A. Holdaway & Lester Mangum and of very few saints present.

It proved to be a pleasant day and though the roads were rough in places we traveled quite comfortably. It was the first time Esther had been away from Aintab,—never saw a village before that day. We arrived in Killis about 1 hr before sunset. Were stopped in the streets near the outskirts and dismounted, our luggage transfered to the backs of donkies and all our horses hastely taken to secret quarters, as our katirjis were afraid of having the amimals drafted into the mail service and taken on to Haleb. Called at Garug Bezjians and found them in great poverty & sickness.

April 8, 1902 (Tuesday) [Aintab to Alexandretta by carriage]

Having found a Arabaji for 10 mejedia we started out again on a three days trip for the coast. The Teuchers Bros will go to Haleb and I and the other two to Escanderoo[n].[114] The weather was warm, the fields a beautiful green and all <was> pleasant. Reached Afrin Khan early in the afternoon and remained there that night We met a Mr Schönfeld, agent for the “Singer Co.”[115] He told us that he had come from Aleppo and in his crowd were 5s carriages bearing 10,000 pounds in money.

April 9, 1902 (Wednesday) [Aintab to Alexandretta by carriage]

We were up and of early again on the road. The day was very warm as we crossed the “Amuk” valley, and we reached Kirk kha[n] about mid afternoon. Feasted on new milk and bread for supper and ralished the change. Esther was not well—dizzy from riding.

April 10, 1902 (Thursday) [Aintab to Alexandretta by carriage]

Continued our journey and reached Bailan before noon. There we rested for a lunch and were approached rather unceremoneously and yet authoritatively by two men who said they were sent to search us for unstamped letters which we might be carrying with us illegaly. We refused to be searched and they went back and reported us to the Police who came and asked of us the same thing but he too met with emphatic objections and went away. Returning soon we talked to him and showed him our pocket books and papers and were permited to go. He went privately to Esther and said “Those men say they gave you a paper, where is it”? “What a lie you are telling” she replied with boldness and the [Police] saw his attemped scare was of no use and went away.

We reached Eskanderoon early and were soon located in the new “Hotel Constantinople.” Called on the U.S. Consul, Mr Ross Davis. Recd a letter from my wife.

April 11, 1902 (Friday) [Alexandretta]

Spent several hours at the Consulate chatting, reading etc. Pres Herman did some business with Moses Ashjian, our agent. During the day several things came to light which go to show that we have been deceived by our young Bro Hosref Kulunjian who has thru trickery obtained his means of going with me and we must investigate the affair more thouroughly tomorrow. <(see 20)>

April 12, 1902 (Saturday) [Alexandretta]

Wrote letters to my wife, and to Abdul Samud Saim and Nicola Ferolla, the latter two in Naples. Our Tezkeres were taken to the Serai and soon returned but those of the Saints who are intending to go with us were held back and we were informed that their case would be farther investigated by wiring to Aintab. We obtained a certificate from Consul Davis to enable us to get 20% reduction on S.S. fare for myself and Pres Herman. The prospects look dark for our poor companions.[116]

April 13, 1902 (Sunday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

The steam ship was in the Bay early in the morning. We waited several hours but the tezkeres could not be secured. Help was employed but to no effect while we remained, and at last in bitter disappointment we left the four young people to wait and try the next ship. The parting with our dear sister Orull[ian] was a touching one. She wept and cried as if her heart would break for her hopes have been so keen to mingle with the Saints in Zion. She would not be comforted with the words which told of one more chance, but we had to leave them and we do pray earnestly, if it be the Lords will, that they may find a way and join me later in another port. Even after we boarded we still had hopes of them getting on for the Ship sailed not till late in afternoon, but we waited and watched the little kiequs[117] as they came one after another bringing their loads of passengers from the wharf, yet we watched and waited in vain. At the last moment I sent a card back to them with a man who promised to get them on one of the next coming Steamers.

O with what a sad and heavy heart I sailed out of that Bay of Alexandretta. The sea was beautiful and calm and the S.S. Apollo steamed out into the deep blue sea with tranquel rollings but the receeding scene was one of the sadest of all my mission.

“God knows the best in everything.
We need not question, “Why”?
The sadest now will pass and bring
A tearless answer Bye and Bye.”

We took 2nd class passage which cost me 33 francs & 60 centims for fare and 23 f, 65 c for the food = 57.25 from Eskenderoon to Jaffa. Became sea sick after dark but not seriously so. The higher peaks & Mountains along the Syrian Coast were as white as their base was green and the picture was very attractive.

April 14, 1902 (Monday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Day Break brought us to the Harbor of Tripoli or Tarabulus where we remained all day but did not land. Read Turkish and German, and several pages from Baedeker’s Palestine & Syria and chatted with passengers. In the evening we set-sail for the Island of Cyprus and [blank].[118]

April 15, 1902 (Tuesday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Came to Larnaka early in the morning and remained there in the Harbor till afternoon. I did not land. Several <boat> loads of donkeys were taken on there and it was thought they were for the war in South Africa[119] tho they were said to be going to Bombay. After noon we went on to Limasol thru a very high sea and many a dinner were given over to the denizens of the deep. It was a grand (at times <an> awful) sight to sit up on the deck and watch the monstrous waves leap up in air like angry savage beasts, and the ship would toss like cork upon the mountain like waves. Without landing we turned after a few hours anchor for Beyrout.

April 16, 1902 (Wednesday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Day dawned under a clowdy sky a little rain fell but the weather cleared off and we were soon in the Beyrout Harbor. We decided to land here and wait a few days till we see if our Aintab friends will come down from Eskenderoon, as we advised them to come as soon as the way opened up for them. We put up at the Grand Hotel Rabinovitz, for 3 franks per day. Walked about town some, bought a hat for 32 piastres, paper & pens, 4.30.

April 17, 1902 (Thursday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Bot a shirt [-] 5.5 piastres, 3 colars, 2 ties, Total 20 gurush. Called at the American Press house and bought New Testiments in Arabic & Italian. 3 fr. each. Had a short talk on the gosple with Mr W. R. Gloekler of that establishment. Later we visited the College where we met The Pres, Daniel Bliss, an aged Gentleman, and other proffessors.[120] We were escorted through the Buildings by our friend Nersis Baghdorian of Aintab and a son of Dr. Karekeen Hesewny of Sivas, now students. We were just in time to witness the closing devotional exercises conducted by Prof. Adams. We were told that 600 (and over) students are now in attendance.

April 18, 1902 (Friday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Took in the sights again. We loaned Mr Gloekler the “Articles of Faith,” and he promised to read the book. Boarded a German vessel to see if our friends were on from the North but they were not. In the evening visited Herr Fredrick Schaefer and family, where we drank a cup of tea, the first one I think that I have had in Syria.

April 19, 1902 (Saturday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

Received a note from the Aintab people stating that they were all well and in the Harbor at this Port. Boarded their ship a Khedive The Rahminieh, and talked a while. <Recd a letter from Saim Effendi.> Came back. Called at Cook & Sons. Sent a telegram to Carlonia Hilt at Haifa asking to get ready, “Sei Bereit April 20” in German. Wrote to Holdaway & Mangum and later to Mariam.

April 20, 1902 (Sunday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

We left the Hotel Rabinovitz in which we have had good accomodations and good service by the people (Jews). Boarded the S.S. Rahminieh and were soon sailing around the beautiful promintory on which stands the pretty City of Beyrouth. (Birut) The though[t] of nearing by each degree the land I love so far away, and of having our friends, the 4 Armenian Saints, securely with us once more was a pleasure after all the trouble we have recently passed, but this pleasure was sadly marred by the fact that one of them must yet meet a disappointment more bitter than all the trials of our journey. It was poor little Hosref, he who has been almost the “Pride of the Aintab Branch” but now the victim of his own missdeeds and the object of our pity. Pres Herman & I called him up to us and as we sat on the deck the steamer, he between the two, we questioned him concerning his actions in the case of gaining favor with the authorities at home. One wrong requires another to help it on and he began to make a plausable story of the whole affair. It began May 25, 1901. (see date) The letter there refered to was by his request at the time left Blank in the name and address, as he told us it would be taken from him if his mother saw the name. After it was translated he took it and wrote Lorenzo Snows name therein and sent it to him. He has no Relative of the kind mentioned in America, but until he found out that we knew all about it, he yet affirmed with many other untruths that such was the case. At last he saw his condition and made an open confession of the deep dec[e]ption he has carried on for nearly a year, and he was filled with sorrow and remorse.[121] We asked him to write a statement of the case to the Saints at Aintab which he did freely. Then when we told him he could not go with me, but must get off at Haifa with Pres Herman, he first began to plead, then implore & at last when hope was gone, to make threats of what would be if he was taken back to Aintab. His rebellious spirit was not pleasing and we left him to ponder on his situation. Hester counseled with him and his heart became more soft and by the time we reached Haifa he was willing to land and if possible remain with Bro & Sister Hilt till something else might turn up. The poor boy wept bitterly but from what we have seen we could not well take him and recommend him to the Saints at home.

We landed (the 3 of us) at Haifa about 5 oclock p.m. and proceeded immediately to the Hilt Residence. They recived the telegram of yesterday but did not understand it and therefore were not quite ready for one of their number to take so long a trip, but by an extra effort Sister Carolina was ready and at 10 p.m. we were on the boat with her in our party. I received 733 Franks and a few Centimes from Albert Herman as administrator of her property, to defray expences of her passage. I feared it will bearly see her thru and the fear was confirmed by the expense that heaped up even before we sailed out of the bay. I was asked to pay for boat, tezkera, carrage, hammal, custom and ticket. Against some of these I protested as I had insisted on walking, and then for me to pay for 3 landing, and the same number embarking and all came a little against me wishes as I had been mistrustingly entrusted with the scanty amount put into my hands. Bro. H at the last moment refunded about a half a mejedia for his share of the nearly 10 francs expense. The unpleasant incident was regretable just at our parting after so much time spent together in the mission.

April 21, 1902 (Monday) [Alexandretta to Jaffa by steamship]

After a voyage of the night we anchored at Jaffa where I would have been pleased to land and visit Jerusalem for a few days but in order to make connections with other steamers, and also to insure safty for my companions I was compeled to pass by the famous port tho we remained in the rough harber nearly all day. I bot a few souvnirs of the land as they came on board for sale. Left in the evening and traveled through the moon lit waves of the Meditteranean and [blank].

April 22, 1902 (Tuesday) [Jaffa to Port Said by steamship]

Early in the morning we came in to Port Said and remained again till evening. Did not land as the boats were high and there was not much for sight seeing other than the buildings and the great shipping at the enterence of the Great Cannal,[122] which could be seen from the vessels deck.

April 23, 1902 (Wednesday) [Port Said to Alexandria by steamship]

The night ride was one of memory. The moon was in Eclipse and presented a wierd scene as we ploughed through the rolling waves on the white caped sea. If my soul at last shines out when the darkness and weakness of life are passed, as the great planets after their passage through an eclipse again shine forth in vigerous splendor, it will be thru the everlasting mercies of a Kind and Indulgent Father—Wonderous for His Love to erring Children.

We landed in Alexandrea, the Mighty City of age and fame, and were soon ashore making preperations for our voyage to Naples. After several hours running about, calling on the agents of the Dominion Line, John Ross & Co. near the Quay, and the Agents of the Italian S.S. Co near the “Bank Credit Lyonnais” beyond the Big Square, and at the Ship, “Gotardo,” etc I happened to meet a well dressed young man whom I took to be an Armenian and thot he might speak english. On asking him [i]f he could, he replied affirmative, and at once offered his services to assist me. He said he was a Copt,[123] and a Christian, and his position was Captain of the Quay.[124] He secured a boatman, got us through the Custom houses, went with me to get our tickets, got us on the S.S. Gotardo, tho it was one day ahead of the time for passangers to board, and then took me thru the city a while and to his own home where I spent an hour more with him looking at curiosities. Our tickets 3rd class cost a little over 71 francs, but with expense of boarding the Steamer, passing Custom house, etc etc added it up to about f75.50 each for our 5 tickets to Naples. The Gentlemans name as his card reads is Dimian Naoum.

April 24, 1902 (Thursday) [Alexandria to Naples by steamship]

After breakfast (our own food so far) we were taken through the Inspection office, and our bedding was put in the Disinfecter. On boarding again we were not allowed to go ashore. The examination seemed to be only for the Plague[125] but it was the most farcical thing I have seen for so serious a matter. Less than 30 seconds were spent in the <real> examination of the three males in the room for that purpose. I[t] cost nothing but the trouble, and then we were sent back by boat which cost 2½ francs. In the after noon the passangers began to file in and there were many scores of them in all.

We sailed out about 4.30 p.m. and another voyage of 4 days was befor us. Accomodations are not good and the food for supper <with tin plates & cups> was a large dish of meat and potatoes and bread handed out to each group. In our crowd were 6 for the 1 dish.

April 25, 1902 (Friday) [Alexandria to Naples by steamship]

Found ourselves far out in mid sea and as the day wore on the wind and waves increased till port holes left unclosed were far from pleasant to the ones who sat beneath the apperture. I obtained a book from a gentleman aboard from Ohio, “The Crucifiction of Philip Strong”[126] which I read a good share of the day.

April 26, 1902 (Saturday) [Alexandria to Naples by steamship]

A cold wind came from the north and the waves foamed and dashed and threw their spray high into the whirling air. Finished reading of “Philip Strong.” It is less interesting tho much in the same style as “In His Steps” which I read a year ago. Two sentences struck me with much force tho perhaps a little strained, viz. “The Almighty Dollar is the God of Protestant America,” and “The world would Crucify Jesus Christ again even after 2000 years of historical Christianity.”

April 27, 1902 (Sunday) [Alexandria to Naples by steamship]

Spent some time in conversation with a Mr Frazer of Ohio from whom I borrowed the Book, last Fri. Personally he was very frank and friendly but denounced the Book of Mormon as a “rot” etc and had much to say concerning the faith and leaders of the Mormon Church, in a way that profusely ventilated his ignorance.

Before noon we could see land—the mountains of southern Italy and still farther in the distance to the left towered up old Etna, crowned like an aged vetran of 4 score & 10, with a white diadem of shining snow. The sky was murkey above, and still lower gathering round its base were belts of heavey clouds. It was the grandest real picture I ever saw of that famous simili of Goldsmiths’.[127]

“As some tall cliff that lifts its awful form
Swells from the vale and midway leaves the storm
Tho round its breast the rolling clowds are spread
Eternal sunshine settles on its head.”

The numerous villages lying along the Italian coast with almost as many streams rushing down from the green hills in the background formed a pleasing picture. Soon after noon we were in the Harbor of Messina on Sicily Island. Spent the day there but did not feel like landing. Left soon after dark passing thru the Strait.[128]

April 28, 1902 (Monday) [Alexandria to Naples by steamship]

We could see the abrupt Mts of Italy as the clouds broke away in the morning air, passed the Capri Island and were soon in sight of that grand old peak, Vesuvius, sending a cloud of white smoke up into the sky that looked just like the clouds of vapor before rain. Then we sighted Naples thru the misty atmosphere but as we neared the Harbor the countless house[s] appeared more clear as they dotted the great bend of the Bay from old Pompii to the point. The water in the bay was filthy, the houses look old and dirty, and it was realy not what one sees in the picture. It was after noon before we could land.

I went with a friend who is going to Boston with a party of 3 others, to the Dominion Line Agency where I met Mr Nicola Ferolla who had been informed of my coming. We were instructed concerning hotel etc and after a tedious waiting we were located at the Albergo Villa Di Sorento, for ½ franc each for bedding and room. Also met Bro Saim and enjoyed his company for several hours.[129] He and Hester & I took a walk through the great garden or park in the west of the city, the Bon ton of Naples. Not having beds enough <in the hotel> I and Mr Tashjian went and found lodging at another place.

April 29, 1902 (Tuesday) [Naples]

Assisted Bro Siam some in trying to get aboard as he had purchased a ticket for New York on the Prince line. Later he was rejected as a passenger at the Inspection office on acct of eye troubles. He came and put up with us at the Hotel and assisted us in the purchase of foods as we bought our own from the market each day. Called on the U.S. Consul, Mr Byington, a very pleasant old gentleman who was in Utah at the great opening of the U.P.R.R.[130] throu that Country. He knew many of the authorities and especially Pres. Geo. Q Cannon. <Wrote to my wife at Alpine & to the Liverpool office.>

April 30, 1902 (Wednesday) [Naples]

Sold a Draft for £45. favor of [blank] Turner & Co Bankers, Naples. Made further arrangements for our passage at the Dominion Line Agency whoes address is Nicola Ferolla, Via Marina Nuova 30, only a few doors east of our Hotel. The tickets for 4 third class passengers from Naples to Salt Lake amounted to 1807.30 Italian Li[ra], or francs, or 451,825 francs each. We loose several dollars on the exchange. The special rates to us should have been $85.25 each but counting 5 francs to the dollar as I have done befor this brings it up to $90.35 plus an exchange of 5.3 francs was put on each dollar. My Drafts brought 25.5 francs per Pound Sterling, still I looss about $5.00.

May 1, 1902 (Thursday) [Naples]

Did more running about on business and sightseeing, Bot hats and shirts for Artine & Yakob, and paid for having 2 pairs of pants remade to fit them. We got the hats for 1 franc each tho the seller wanted 4 francs at first. Naples is about the worst place I ever saw for trickery in trade. I thot Turkey was bad enough but here the people are far more bold in asking extravagent prices and then selling at last for what they can get. Another feature of Naples is the style of the hair dressing among the Ladies. There seems to be something distinctively peculiar to this Italian style and yet there is such varied taste in the “do up” of the hair that one is interested in noting the charming fancy in the dress of the “covering for the head.” The contrast between the rich and the poor is woefully striking and painful to the philanthropic beholder.

May 2, 1902 (Friday) [Naples]

Hired a carriage for 6 francs and went with Bro Saim to Pompei about 15 miles from our place of staying. The ride was pleasant out thru the more open country but the day was cloudy and frequent showers of rain occured. Vesuvias was not visable. We reached Pompei in 2 hours fast driving, paid 2 francs each for enterance fees and for about 3 hours we wandered thru the well paved streets and along the ruined walls, in and out the gateways from house to house, stood before the marvelous statuary of the anciend days, gazed with wonder on the well preserved decorations of the rooms, admired the mosaic of the flooring and walls, examined the baths, walked over the ruins of theatres, stood before altars of sacrifice, peeped in rooms where crime was once a welcomed guest, gazed on scenes revolting in their low suggestions, passed by homes of oppulance and pride and sauntered down the grounds where oratory once rang out to throngs of people gathered there to be instructed.

Questions upon questions come to one who stands within those silent precincts that now for near 2000 years have lain with none to tread the once eventful City of the Romans. Volumms have been written and now my wish is all the more to read again the story of old Pompei. Many visitors were there that day.

Returned to Naples and took a walk with Bro Saim and Esther. Bot a Book of Views. Wrote to Nishan Q. Shirinian of Zara.[131]

Marash to Sivas: Rugged Trails and Armed Bandits[132]

On arriving at Marash [in Turkey], we were received kindly by the Saints. Our intention was to remain a few weeks there, as Sister Booth had not had the pleasure of meeting the Saints before in that city, and we wished to get acquainted, to rest and do what we could in our line of work, besides answering mail, etc. Three or four days at a time is about all one can stand of these rugged roads, as we have to travel on pack animals, and so we aim to rest at intervals, as my wife is not very strong physically. . . .

We were soon on our way to Sivas. For four days more we slowly wended our way through the varied scenes along the Jahan river, scaling ledges, drinking from snow drifts, surveying the distance from elevated summits, camping in the cool grass-covered vales, and sheltering along the dusty roads. . . . The officials told us the roads were safe, although we had heard rumors of danger from highwaymen. Our party was small at first, only Sister Booth and myself, with two guides to tend the horses, but by night we were in all fifteen, with about fifty animals laden with goods consisting of cotton, leather, and general merchandise. We camped in the hills just about sunset. The bales of goods were placed in order, as the muleteers know how to do their work, and we made our stand about two rods away.

Supper was just ready when the shouts of men were heard from a distant hill. Wild excitement followed, and we could see that something more than usual was imminent. In five minutes there were nine robbers armed for their work before us, and our men wildly ordering them not to approach. They were from one to two hundred yards away when they began to fire. In our party there were only two bguns and one pistol, and they of the oldest style—one a flintlock and the others cap and ball. We were behind the bales, and they were out in the open, so that partly made up for our lack of arms. Whang, wh-r-r-r, whang, wh-r-r-r, whang, wh-r-r-r went the explosions, and the song of the bullets was a new tune with a different meaning than we had ever heard before. The shooting kept up for about thirty minutes, and I think about forty shots were fired in all, when the thieves ran away into the darkness. Some of our men escaped and notified the people of a village about five miles away, and by midnight we were guarded by ten or twelve Kurds heavily armed. Some of them remained and excorted us through till we got into safe country the next day.

Under such circumstances we could only put our trust in the Lord, and while the bullets were whistling around us, we were silently asking our Father to protect us. He gave us courage, and we were delivered from what might have been an awful fate. . . . Since we arrived here depredations are frequently reported along the way, but we will have government guards to accompany us to Sivas, which is three days by carriage, a road having been made this far inland from the north.

Emigration from Zara to Liverpool[133]

During the late spring and throughout the summer of 1908, Booth and several other missionaries attempted to help nineteen Armenian converts from three different families (Aposhian, Orullian, and Pilavjian) emigrate from the Ottoman Empire to the United States in order to join the “Saints in Zion.” During their journey, this group also encountered another Armenian convert family (Arzuman and Aceby Tavoian) from Zara who had been attempting to immigrate to Utah since 1906 and were delayed because of financial and health problems in Alexandria, Egypt, and Athens, Greece. While Booth’s journal provides a great deal of information on these families’ experiences, it does not tell the whole story. Personal accounts from the three families fill in much of the rest. Their stories tell of an arduous experience detailing the hardships that Latter-day Saint Armenians faced when attempting to leave the Ottoman Empire and immigrate to the United States.[134] Booth’s journal entries below tell a story ripe with corruption, discrimination, hardship, poverty, precarity, uncertainty, and danger as Armenian members navigated the global immigration system that instrumentalized fears regarding public health, poverty, and polygamy to prevent certain peoples from leaving the Ottoman Empire and immigrating to the West. Fears about communicable diseases, such as trachoma and tuberculosis, and new immigrants becoming a public charge forced some of the members to split their families up and leave others behind in Mediterranean ports, such as Naples and Alexandria, as others went on and attempted to enter the United States through Canada and Mexico. These experiences stretched the patience, goodwill, purses, and faith of those who endured such a journey.

June 9, 1908 (Tuesday) [Aleppo]

Elder Shepherd & I had our tezkeras vezied,[135] his for Constantinople and mine for Alexandria. We called several places—at the English Consulate and had a talk with Mr Longworth. As usual he was a little drowsy with drink. Also called on Mr Poche and learned that the ships we wanted both leave Sat morning. Called twice to see Mehemed Ali Bey, but he was not in.

June 10, 1908 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

Made preperations for Elder Shepherds departure tomorrow. I sold a draft for £50 leaving nearly £35 or 4800 in the Bank and drew the remainder, paid Elder Shepherd £15 for traveling expenses and £4.13.10 on personal order.

June 11, 1908 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

We accompanied Elder Shepherd to the train and saw him off safely at 6 a.m. He intends visiting Baalbek this evening and tomorrow, then go on to Beyrout, thence to Constantinople where he will see into the Book of Mormon affair, thence on to Zurich visiting Elder Hubers parents and await orders there from Liverpool.

Reba & I called with Dikran to see a antique painting at the home of Basil Ef., Nufus Memuri. Read a book of about 80 [pages], The New Man, by Prof. Newton N Riddle—an excellent lecture. Visited the shop and a few homes of the Saints. A letter came from Elder Newman stating that Bros Zadik Apposhian & Nersis Pilavjian <with their families> were all ready to leave there for Zion Tues morning when officers came and stopped them and cast some of them into prison. The[y] had worked hard to get their Passports Terk i vatan[136] and thought every thing was straight and honorable but alas the poor people here never know what an hour will bring. Spoke in testimony meeting at night on directing our force—some thoughts I had gleaned from Mr Riddle. Paid Kevork Patukian on S. B. Newmans order 9 mej 213.38 gr cash he had received in Aintab to be paid here.

June 12, 1908 (Friday) [Aleppo]

Had some conversation with friends on the gospel. In the evening I called on Mehemet Ali Bey at his residence and talked with him concerning the recent arrest of the brethren at Aintab and taking out of Terki Passports. He told me to call at the Seray tomorrow. Also called on the English Consul Mr Longworth and had a pleasant chat with him on Mormonism. He is an unbeliever even in his own Bible.

June 13, 1908 (Saturday) [Aleppo]

The weather was still hot and has been excessively so nearly all week. I went to the Gov building and met the officials who told me that all was going on O.K. and that the papers for Zadik and Nersis and a third party, one Nallandian, would be sent likely by next mail to Aintab and then they could come here and from here start for America. Sent a card to the Elders in Aintab by Arabajee. Talked with Drs. Der Baghosian & Jebedjian and gave them tracts, also a Greek druggest in Dr Josephs Pharmacy. Read up a little for S.S. lesson tomorrow.

June 27, 1908 (Saturday) [Aleppo]

Looked for a suitable room for the emmigrants but they came early while I was talking with the officials concerning them and put up at the Mission House. There were 14 in all, as follows. Zadik Aposhian and wife Katune with their children Arusiak, Ferida, Yakop, Nezeba, Esther, Krikor & Joseph. Nersis Pilavjian and his children Hrepsema, Hovhannes, Aram & Victor. They have had a long and hard task to get their papers—passports, and it has cost over $100, 18 Osmanli Lira, for the last effort and 9 lira which went on the first efforts. Some may be recovered. When they arrived we learned that robbers had attacked their baggage wagon on Fri night near Kefr Altoun (the wagon coming ahead of the carriages in which they rode) and took from a large trunk several suits of clothes and articles valued at 30 Osmanli lira by Zadik, but it seems that 20 lira would nearer cover it. We entered complaint and started suit against the Arabajee. (They brought mail from Aintab etc.) It was a large crowd at our place that night and the noise and confussion were great in comparasin to the usual quietude.

June 28, 1908 (Sunday) [Aleppo]

We had a “get acquainted” session of Sunday School and about 20 persons spoke briefly, both from the Haleb Branch & Aintab. In the afternoon session also several spoke, Reba & I being among them. Also Zadik & Nersis. Received mail from Elders Stevenson & Phelps.

June 29, 1908 (Monday) [Aleppo]

During the night Ovsanna Orulluian was bitten by a vermin or viper of some kind and was quite ill. I administered to her. Rec’d mail from Elder Shepherd, Constantinople, who reports that Mr Leishman, Ambassador, is still working on the Book of Mormon case. His health has improved since he left us June 11. He was to leave Constantinople on the 19 inst. Also recd letters from Liverpool concerning acct etc., one containing a draft for £5/4/0 for Elder Stevenson which I sent to him in a letter. Also wrote to Esther Orulluian, Elisa Nalbandian, Menush Uzunian, Elders Woodbury & Stevenson, Pres Penrose asking him to honor a draft No A 10 if issued by Elder Newman whom I authorized to do so. Reba wrote to Elder Shepherd & I added a line or two. After posting the letters I watched some of the proceedings in the Robery case. Zadik sued for the recovery of his property or its equivalent from the Arabaji. The official seemed to think that the Arabji and his man were guilty or were in conspiracy with the robbers.

The trial was set for tomorrow.

June 30, 1908 (Tuesday) [Aleppo]

Prepared some papers for Quarterly report. The emmigrants and many of the Saints were busy in cutting and making clothes, underware, for the travelers. They were in more destitute circumstances and with less money, especially Nersis family, than any other emigrant I think that ever left Turkey for Zion. Bro Nersis did not have a dollar of his own on hand, and Bro Zadik had about $50—only enough to see them to Beyrout and then there is about $100 belonging to the emmigration fund. Further than that <with slight exception> we shall have to depend on arrangement for them to be taken up by the S.S. Co and settled for at the other end. I have written to Liverpool and earnestly pray the Lord to open the way for them so that they may not suffer excessively while enroute.

The trial came off but as usual other things came up to postpone the settlement and another delay resulted.

July 1, 1908 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

Made further preperations for our trip. Bot cloth for suits for Hov & Aram Pilavjian and Yakob Aposhian and gave the same to Josheph Chakarian to make the suits. Reba was busy with sewing etc. No Sisters meeting was held as Loza & Reba were called to attend a sister Zakie Merjanian at child birth in the morning. <I called on Mr Poche and thanked him for his kindness, as Consular Agent, to us.>

July 2, 1908 (Thursday) [Aleppo]

We tried the suits for fitting, packed up some of the bagga[g]e, and held a testimony meeting at evening at which several spoke and I followed with advice to the saints. Reba & I called on our Am. Consul, Mr Jesse B Jackson, who arrived yesterday from Alexandretta and will now open a Consulate in Aleppo.

July 3, 1908 (Friday) [Aleppo to Beirut by train]

Left Aleppo by train with the emigrating saints, 15 including myself. Reba and many of the saints accompanied us to the depot, she will remain alon there for a while with the neighbors Angelic & her mother. Our trip was strange to the saints who had not ridden on a train before, but all went well with us till we reached Baalbek when I alighted to look around a moment and purchase a little fruit etc. Many other passengers also did the same as we usual did at the larger stations. The train suddenly started up not giving time for all to board again and we noticed that from our appartment Hov. Pilavjian was missing. I stepped out and gave a signal with my hat and while doing so the train dashed by a post which struck me on the head, shoulder blade, and elbow, almost knocking me sensles, but I managed with Bro Zadiks aid to get into the car again. My coat was torn nearly off of the right side, and all in all I felt that I had passed the most dangerous point of my life up to the present time, but thrugh the mercy of the Lord I was spared what might have been death. We came on to Rayak Junction where Nersis got off and waited for his son who was left behin[d] 20 miles or more. The rest of us came on and arrived in Beyrout about midnight and put up at the big islam hotel facing the depot to the north. I rested well considering my condition and pain.

July 4, 1908 (Saturday) [Beirut]

I was not in hilarious hurrah for the Fourth state but I managed to get around to attend to the business prior to our embarkation. Called at the Consulate General and met Mr [blank] Vice General Consul but he was busy with work—not celebrating—so I talked only a short time there.

Nersis & Hov arrived on the afternoon train from Baalbek. N. took the morning train back there but Hov had come on a foot and was waiting at Rayak for him when the train returned. The officials sent a telegram to inform Nersis that his son was found and all right at Rayak. We were glad to meet them.

July 5, 1908 (Sunday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

Without trouble and with out a satchel or a bundle being opened we passed through the customs house and the official said to the saints, “Go on now and make men of yourselves over there.” A bo[a]tman and a police had done all the work for us and their bill of expense with porter and boat included amounted to about 22 mejedea, £4 nearly.

We set sail at 10.30 am and reached Haifa in the after noon. Most all were sea sick so we could not hold services as we wished, but we read and studied places along the coast and close inland as we rounded Mt Carmel <at night> I began to write a letter to C.V. but the rocking of the ship and hot room caused me to postpone till tomorrow.

Our tickets to Pireaus via Alexandria cost 30 franc[s] each III class without food for 8 persons, and 15 f. each for 5 children, and 2 went for nothing. Total 315 f.

July 6, 1908 (Monday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

We spent the day in Jaffa harbor reading, writing, and conversing. I met a man from Haifa who told me that Bro & Sister Hild had returned there from America. In the evening early we sailed out for Port Said and as we passed along receeding from the coast we read and talked of bible events in the plain south of Jaffa.

July 7, 1908 (Tuesday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

We reached Port Said about 7 a.m. & I left the boat and took the train for Alexandria via Benha <see Nov 13, 1905> to meet the saints there & get them ready for our coming ship tomorrow. Arrived at Alexandria 3.30 p.m. and after about an hours search in the district of Merghani and passing the door several times I located and found the Saints, and rested for a while under their dome. The Orulluian family (5) was there who left Aleppo last April, Krikor Kizerian & wife & child near, with Arzeman Kojuguzian and wife & 5 children a distance away. I met them all but the 5 children.

July 8, 1908 (Wednesday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

I worked hard till afternoon trying to arrange with some S S Co to bring us to Liverpool. Received £40 through Cook & Sons from Liverpool. We found a ship to sail the same day at 5 p.m. but all could not get ready and so we changed our baggage from the Dakakliek to the Prince Abas, both of the Khidivial Line,[137] taking with us Krikor Orulluian and his wife Dudu, with Joseph or Hosruf, Moses and Azniv their children. We sailed out early in the evening and I was so weary that I scarcely looked up to see the city of Alexandria as we passed away into the night and the deep sea. We were charged extra and dishonestly by the ticket seller for a quarentine which he said existed in Pereaus against Alexandria, 50 ct each. Ticketts for the new fine cost 22 or 23 franks with the quarentine charge. The deck was crowded.

July 9, 1908 (Thursday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

We had a high sea and were nearly all sea sick, and had I not been along with them the little children would have been sadly neglected that day. We passed the coast of Crete in the evening early.

July 10, 1908 (Friday) [Beirut to Piraeus by steamship]

The sea was calmer and we ate a little more heartily. Arrived near Pireaus harbor soon after noon and were sturned off along the coast for a few miles where they landed the III class passengers and disinfected some of their effects—all but mine. I seemed to be the only sick one of all the throng and was the only one not looked after. It was nearly sunset when we had passed the customs house at Pireaus and reached the St George hotel where the boat man took us. I dropped on the bed and slept for a while and felt better, a little, yet had a high fever. A Protestant Minister <on his way to Smyrna from Am.> called to see me but retired when he saw me so weary and ill.

July 11, 1908 (Saturday) [Piraeus to Athens by steamship]

I was feeling much better and went to Athens and met the Saints, and Elders Thorup & Wood. All the saints are away except Bro Rigas and Sister Andromacha. Called a[t] Cooks and other places on business. Sent the following telegram to “295 Edgelane, Liverpool. Arrive Naples 15th, 19 Saints. Ans c/o Cook <(or Am consul)?> Booth.” Returned to Pireaus with the Elders & Bro Pofantis to see the saints. Wrote to Pres Penrose concerning our condition.

On our return to Athens I spent an hour and a half with Elder Thorup and his engaged translator of the Book of Mormon, Mr Gratsiatos, an educated Gentleman of literary attainments. I had him take his work and translate from Greek back into English putting it in his own style. He got the thought pretty well yet made several errors in 4 different verses, not grave ones yet not permissable. Then they went on with a few verses of translation. He sat easily in his rocking chair and held only the book translating it phrase by phrase and Lucia the tallented scribe (daughter of Mrs Caraja—see Oct 1905) wrote rapidly his dictation while Elder Thorup looked on his english Book of Mormon. When they finished a page of manuscript she read it over and they listened and commented here and there and it was done (?), an easy way of making a few drachma I think. Yet if the ability of the gentleman is equal to his quiet easy going importance, his work is probably worth the money. Elder Thorup has been so positive that the translator is a perfect one that I was lead to doubt some what, yet my opinion of the translators ability is now better as I expected he was a young man and not an old student and linguist.

July 12, 1908 (Sunday) [Athens to Piraeus to Naples by steamship]

Read the news of Zions growth, wrote to Reba, & Krikor in Egypt. Went to Pireaus and held a sacrement meeting with the saints and talked to them a short time. In the after noon we sailed out of the Bay on the N. German LLyod S.S. Therapea for Naples. Paid 24 francs per adult and 12 f. for children, deck passage. I took a berth and paid 46 fr. Bro Krikor Orulluian had a big sack of clothes stolen or taken in mistake when we landed so they are now, especially the sisters, very destitute. The evening was beautiful and calm.

July 13, 1908 (Monday) [Piraeus to Naples by steamship]

Spent the morning in arranging accts of the 3 families. In all I have paid out from the beginning of their preperation for the trip for

This takes them to Naples.

The day was pleasant, the sea calm and the ship steady and the saints ate heartily and used up all their food excepting condiments, lemon, etc. I ate at the table twice to day, instead of with them as usual. Gave out a number of tracts in German, Turkish, French & Greek. Read some and talked with passengers. The evening was most beautiful. The sea was a trembling sheen and the full moon sent her glimmering rays glancing on the waves in a widening path from our ship to “edge of the ocean.” The phrase “Moon light on the Mediterranean” has a new and charming meaning since I stood to night on the deck of Therapia with Zadik, Krikor, Azniv, Arusiac & Hrepsima. But I am worried as to what will become of the saints when left alone or when we reach Naples. I have taken them, 19, on my hands and only about $165 in cash with me. Zadik has $15, the others 0. I hope the Lord will provide a way for them.

July 14, 1908 (Tuesday) [Piraeus to Naples by steamship]

We reached Messina in the morning and remained till 6 p.m. Zadik and I went ashore and purchased some provisions. Wrote to Pres Penrose. I learned by news paper that Bryan[138] was nominated again by the Democrats at the Denver convention, 10th inst.? Sailed for Naples during the night. Posted letters this morning to Reba & C.V.

July 15, 1908 (Wednesday) [Piraeus to Naples by steamship]

Arrived at the Naples about 8 a.m., went ashore and called at the American Consulate & at Cooks but no word was at either place for me from Liverpool. I sent a telegram to Pres Penrose to wire me £40 care of Cook at Marseilles, and after a delay till 4 p.m. and getting food supplies etc for the Saints, a coat <15 fr> & cap 2 fr for myself, we sailed again for Marseilles. I got the tickets on the ship and got a bargain on the lot, 10 francs each for 10 adults and 5 fr each for 7 children, 2 free, deck passage. I took 3 class, good accomodations with food, 30 fr. Met an English man <Mr Wilkes> a ship officer coming from China where he has been for about 5 years. Had a long talk with him on “China,” Turkey, missionary work, etc. Had a nice sea again.

July 17, 1908 (Friday) [Naples to Marseilles by steamship]

Landed early in Marseilles and I went to Cook & Sons office and after waiting an hour or so I received £40 Forty Pounds sent by Pres. Penrose, and the telegram said for me to wait for a letter from him. I returned to the ship, got the saints located at a room on Rue Chevalier - Paul near a mill on Rue DeParise. Then returned to Cooks, received a letter from Pres Penrose stating that he knew nothing of any arrangements being made for the emigration of the Armenian saints, and had not been authorized to send them on or pay any money out for them except $300 mentioned last year and which I drew. I could not think of no better way than to continue on to Liverpool where I felt sure some plans could be adopted for them. I purchased tickets to Liverpool for 88.25 francs each and we left that night after dark, and traveled all night.

July 18, 1908 (Saturday) [Marseilles to Liverpool by steamship]

Arrived in Paris about 11 a.m. after a long morning ride through the cool fields and groves and hill[s] wet by the rains of the past night and this morning. Remained till nearly dark again and then left Paris for London. We saw very little of the great French capital as it rained much and we were not prepared for walking out much. Rode all night, soon after 12 Oclock midnight.

July 19, 1908 (Sunday) [Deiffe to New Haven and London by steamship and then to Liverpool by train]

We boarded a steamer at Deiffe and soon after day light we landed at New Haven, but what a disappointment met us there! There was confussion and weeping and crying among us when we were told by the Customs House or Immigration officials that two of our party had trachoma very bad and they could not be allowed to go on. Sister Dudu Orulluian and Sister Khatun Aposhian, the only two mothers in that crowd of 19 souls, were turned back to Deiffe and of course their husbands and Khatuns three smallest children must go back with them. The rest of us, 12 without myself, came on to London but all the former merriment was gone and the poor children wept as they went along.

We were delayed some 4 or 5 hours in getting into London so no one was at the station to meet us as I had requested by telegram from Paris yesterday, so we came straight on by carriage to St Pancreas station and at 12 oclock noon we set out for Liverpool arriving at 5.10 p.m. We were met at the station by Elders <John> Smith & J S Mulliner and were taken to rooms at 57 Cornwalles St. where the saints remained and I went to 295 Edge Lane, where I enjoyed the comforts of “home life” again. I was in time to listen to part of a sermon by Elder Wm A Morten in services. Pres. Penrose was away so I did not meet him.

July 20, 1908 (Monday) [Liverpool]

Wrote a letter to my wife and then visited the saints and talked with them. Bro Frank Howerth went with me and we took dinner with them at their eating house. Received a letter from Bro Zadik & Krikor at Deiffe, they were in great sorrow but still hope that the way may be opened for them. I wrote to them enclosing a note to the officers there to look after them till I could get there.

July 21, 1908 (Tuesday) [Liverpool]

Elder Smith & I looked up several firms or agents and tried to get them off for Canada or Mexico. I moved them to rooms at 109 Duke St. and they felt better in their new home. The sisters of the Relief Society gathered up a nice lot of clothing etc for the destitute Armenian Saints.

July 22, 1908 (Wednesday) [Liverpool]

Drew £8/6/9 on personal acct from the office. Called at the rooms of the Saints on Duke St., had dinner with them, and made calls at a few other places. Tried to see some one at the offices of Quilliam Bey but all were too busy & I could not well wait. We gave the cloth[e]s to the saints (see yesterday) & I bought a suit, cost for £3.15 & pants for 16 S. Spoke at night in meeting.

July 23, 1908 (Thursday) [Liverpool to London by train]

Took a hurried leave of “295” and went to the station with the saints to board the train but found we were not able to go on the 11.25 a.m. train as our agents had sent us the wrong tickets. We corrected the error and left at 12.55 p.m. and had a pleasant ride to London arriving at St Pancras Station about 6, and were met by Elders Shepherd & Jordan who accompanied us to “Deseret,” the large and comodous new head quarters of the London Conference at High Road, South Tottenham N. where we met with a hearty welcome by Pres. Soren Petersen & other elders. Pres Penrose was in London & I met him at meeting at night where I spoke for 1/2 hour or more followed by Pres Penrose. Made a report to him but he seemed to question my right to bring the saints to England as well as Bro Hintzes right to arrange for the work when so little information had been sent to Liverpool concerning it. But we are here and it has been a most trying time for me since living Haleb.

July 24, 1908 (Friday) [London]

There was little done in honor of the great Pioneer day in London. All were busy either with sight seeing, busines or preparing for the Dedication of the Home here next Sunday and for the concert tomorrow evening. Elder Shepherd & I were busy nearly all day in preparing for these Armenian Saints to go to Havre, France. We called at Cooks & Son, the stations, & the Mexican Consulate, as we have decided to take the Saints to Tampico, Mexico. I was very weary at night.

July 25, 1908 (Saturday) [London]

Word came in the News papers that yesterday the Sultan of Turkey had declared in favor of a Constitutional Gov and that reforms were now to be inaugerated in that land.[139] Assisted the Saints in cleaning up the hall and putting in chairs etc. Wrote to Reba. At night attended a concert given by the Tout Family and the charm of the program was the sweet graceful figure in light blue—Hazel—making her violin alive with magic tones. All the program was excellent. Received a letter from the Mexican Consul, Mr Adelfo Bulle, concerning the emmigration of the Armenians or regulations concerning their state of health etc. Witnessed the baptism of 7 souls.

July 26, 1908 (Sunday) [London]

Elder Morten & Pres Penrose spoke in S.S. (no class work). At a few minutes to 3 oclock p.m. services began in the great Assembly Room which was well filled and after a report of the Provedential manner in which the home was purchased by Pres Peterson, Pres C.W. Penrose offered a beautiful pray[er] dedicating the grounds and the building an all its appertainances to the Lord. Other speakers followed and the services were very impressive. In the evening Bp Cutler & Bp Price, Pres Penrose & Apostle Reed Smoot were the speakers, the latter having come in suddenly on his arrival from Am. Ten more souls were added to the church by baptism in the font making nearly 100 since Apr 1 in London. I had the pleasure of meeting the Tout sisters in a lunch room and gave Hazel a coin, Turkish, for a souvnier. We sang some in Turkish also for them. Talked with Senator Smoot but he could give me very little information concerning the state of affairs between Turkey & Am. on the Book of Mormon case.[140] He said “We are going to do something for you.”

Emigrants in London, July 27, 1908. From top left to right: Elder Shepherd, Venus (Aposhian) Orullian, Azniv (Orullian) Harrigan, Herepsema (Plowgian) Orullian, Joseph Orullian, President Booth. From middle left to right: John Plowgian, Aram Plowgian, Nersis Plowgian, Freida (Aposhian) Arslanian, Moses Orullian. From bottom left to right: Elsie (Aposhian) Plowgian, Victoria (Plowgian) Karlos, James Aposhian. Maiden names are in parentheses. Courtesy of Church History Library.

July 27, 1908 (Monday) [London to Deiffe, France]

Wrote to the Mexican Consul informing him that we would not have time to get the Saints examined for their health in London but would do so in Havre before embarking. We left London that evening and after about 2 hours ride on the L.B. & S.C. R.R. from Victoria Station we embarked for Deiffe, France. It was a chilly ride.

July 28, 1908 (Tuesday) [Dieffe to Le Havre, France]

Disembarked just before daybreak and found Bro Zadik & Krikor with their <parts of> families well and we were glad to get together again. They had been sleeping in the customs house and had suffered some on acct of having to eat uncooked food for more than a week. About 10 a.m. we were all in Havre, France, and after some running about and with the aid and kindness of our Am. Vice Consul, Mr Beecher, succeeded in getting rooms and lodging at the Y. Thoz Hotel on No 5 Chevalier (Rue) for two francs per day each for 13 adults and 1 fr each for 6 children, one baby free = 20 persons but counted only as 16 making 32 fr per day.

July 29, 1908 (Wednesday) [Le Havre]

I wrote letters to Pres Penrose and Elder Shepherd. Had an attack of chills & fever and was in bed all after noon and night.

July 30, 1908 (Thursday) [Le Havre]

Was much better and able to be up. Read The Story of Mormonism by Dr Talmage. Called at the Consulate and went out for a walk & ride along the coast with Mr Beecher. He paid for lemonade & the car fare and then came to our eating house to see to our comfort. I gave him a Tract and The Story of Mormonism to read and he loaned me several papers.

July 31, 1906 (Friday) [Le Havre]

After reading some time I took a walk with the brethren out to the sea near the mouth of the Seine River. We met an Armenian, young man from Marash, who has been wandering about since his childhoo[d]. Wrote to Esther Orulluian. Read the following interesting lines from the Poet Lowell in Aug No. of Success, advance issue.

“Who Gives Himself for Principle.”

“The only conclusive evidence of a man’s sincerity is that he gives himself for a principle. The fact that a man sends his check to help along a charitable enterprise may mean a great deal or it may mean very little: he may have some ax to grind, some ulterior purpose back of it all: but when a man gives himself for his principle we may know that he is honest. When a man is willing to make a personal sacrifice of his personal comfort, of his time, his energy for a cause it is pretty good evidence that he is sincere.”[141]

August 1, 1908 (Saturday) [Le Havre]

Read some. We were accompanied by the young Armenian (see yesterday) Minnas Sarmenian in search of rooms. He located some and we looked at them after noon, near the Sailors Rest. The place was dirty and needed cleaning well before we could use it. Called at the “Rest” and had a nice talk with the propriator. He knew Mr Haire. (See Sept 30, 1898 & Oct etc)

Received a letter from Elder Shepherd enclosing one from Elder Thorup recently brought to Liverpool from Athens by Bro Arziman. He and Krikor followed us in a few days from Egypt with their families. (See July 7 & 8.) I was asked what to do with them, the one in Liverpool and the other 9 in Naples. I wrote Elder Shepherd that I was willing for them all to be sent here to Havre, France, and I would try & see them all, with those already here, off for Mexico with him Aug 17 or for them to be sent from Naples and I would return that way and try to get them off for Am. or Mexico.

August 2, 1908 (Sunday) [Le Havre]

Held 2 meetings with the Saints and talked to them on “Patience” and “Pilgrimage.” Attended Catholic Church in the morning. There were about 30 women, 60 or 70 children, and 4 men in the audience. (Once before I attended the same and found about 20 women and 2 or 3 men.) Took a walk. A druggest examined Dudu’s and Khatun’s eyes and said the former had trachoma but the latter had not. I wrote (per Nersis) to the Saints in Naples. “Wait for word.”

August 3, 1908 (Monday) [Le Havre]

We looked around and found a more suitable place than that we saw Sat. and we engaged the same 4 rooms with 3 stoves for 90 francs for 13 days. It was high but we could make by the chang, saving several Pound. Our present landlady, when she learned we were going to leave, offered us her place to sleep & cook in for the same price, but we had given our word on condition of the other being well cleaned.

Called at the Hamberg American Agents and also at the Consulate and met Mr [blank], the Consul, a moment only as he was engaged. Mr Beecher treated me with his usual kindness. I gave him Roberts little book “Mormonism.”

August 4, 1908 (Tuesday) [Le Havre]

We moved into our new quarters near The Grand Quay on Rue Des Galions No. 15. An English lady who sells groceries near by was very kind to us and offered assistance. Recd a card from Elder Shepherd & answered it, enclosing an order for Rugs to Cooks.

August 5, 1908 (Wednesday) [Le Havre]

Bot a sack of rice, for the saints. Also bot an alcohol stove (4.95 francs) and a stew pan & cups. Read I Nephi. Wrote to our friend Miss Jensen as it is 5 years ago to day since we left Salt Lake City and she was at the train to say “Good Bye.” Also wrote a card to Reba with the picture of Grand Quai and the Southampton customs house. Read the news at the Sailors Rest at night. It rained as I was returning to my room.

August 7, 1908 (Friday) [Le Havre]

Received 2 letters from Liverpool, one contained an order (P.O.) for £20. The other contained instructions from Pres Penrose regarding the saints and stated that Arzooman had left Liverpool for Havre via London, Aug 5. . . .

August 8, 1908 (Saturday) [Le Havre]

Read news papers. Settled a row or rather listened to one between the saints. Enviousness, missjudging and a cold loveless spirit has got among them. I told them if they did not settle it I would leave them alone and go back to my field of labor. Received letters from Krikor Kizirian, Naples, and Elder Shepherd, London.

August 9, 1908 (Sunday) [Le Havre]

Elder Shepherd & Bro Arzooman arrived by boat from London via Southampton. Held two meetings with the saints, a settlement of their difficulties was effected, and we partook of the sacrement. I spoke at both meetings, also others. In the evening several of us (about 10) went to the Sailors Rest and attended services. They showed abundance of love and interest in us. Elder Shepherd secured lodgings there and after we had left he fell into conversation with the propriator & wife and as soon as they found out he was a “Mormon” there was a wonderful drop in the love (?) they had for him and pronounced his religion as “awful wickedness.”

August 10, 1908 (Monday) [Le Havre]

Called at the agency of the Hamberg American line and learned more of the new and strict regulations concerning immigrants into Mexico. Also went to the Mexican Consulate to make inquiry, but learned little there. . . . Elder Shepherd & I bought a few shirts, ties etc, for the saints and a dress for Sister Dudu Orulluian. We went to a shower bath. Arzooman wrote to Krikor at Naples telling him to return to Egypt or to wait for us a few days there.

August 11, 1908 (Tuesday) [Le Havre]

Copied the above letter in this book and wrote a letter to C. C. Hackett thanking him and the Seventy’s Quorum at Alpine for the $20 sent me (see June 22) as a present.

In the afternoon we took the saints to the Dr. and had him examine them for their eyes. They passed all the younger ones except Hovhannes Pilavjian, and of the older ones Krikor Orulluian and Khatun Aposhian were refused, and Nersis Pilavjian’s case was pronounced “Trachoma but cured”—doubtful if he could go. When Zadiks wife was “refused” only Arusiac was allowed to pass examination as the children could not go without their mother. When we returned and began to council with them, Krikor Orulluian was angry and plainly told me that I had no right to advise him in these matters. He wanted to have all the family turned back just on his account. Later he came to his better senses and said he was angry when he said it. We talked with all of them and then I wrote to Pres. Penrose concerning the matter.

August 14, 1908 (Friday) [Le Havre]

My birthday, 42 years old! I am in the city La Havre, France, in good health and enjoying myself only under great anxiety concerning the saints here with me, and also the work in Turkey where I ought to be at the present time looking after the matter of starting up an Agricultural Industry. Elder Shepherd & I called for the mail but were disapointed. I cashed a P.O. order for 20 pounds sent me from Liverpool several days ago. We accompanied our Vice Consul, Mr Beecher, to the Transatlantic S.S. docks to investigate a case of inspecting passengers who had been rejected. Had supper with all the saints as a birthday party.

August 15, 1908 (Saturday) [Le Havre]

Was a church festival and many people were out. Received a letter from Pres Penrose concerning the “muddle” as he called it —our trouble of getting the saints off. He made several suggestions and then left it to us saying “pray for light” etc. About noon The Porqoui Pas (see Thur 13 inst) left the Harber near Grand Quai and steamed out into the sea on her long voyage toward the South Pole. Her main object as I learned to day is to explore and investigate already discovered lands. I was the last man on the shore to touch her side as she slowly receeded. Thousands were out to witness her departure. As I stood by her side and reached out my hand upon her I offered a prayer that she might go in peace and return in safty and that her captin (Dr Jean Charcot) with all the officers and crew might be guided by the spirit of the Lord as was Colombus in his voyage to America to make valuable discoveries for the world today. Elder Shepherd & I walked out on the point to West of Havre and descended the steep mountain side to the sea shore. Wrote cards to A. L. Booth, May Talmage, C V Jensen, & Reba. All were picture cards of Porquoi Pas.

August 16, 1908 (Sunday) [Le Havre]

We were in more or less sorrow all day, especially the saints, as it looks like some might be left tomorrow when the ship sails. Elder S & I visited the S.S. Kronprinzessin Cecilie and inspected her and talked with the Dr concerning our party. I read the Book of Mormon and completed Mosiah. We held no meetings as all was in confusion.

August 17, 1908 (Monday) [Le Havre]

The day of anxiety has come and we are still in anxiety over the unsettled part of our work. We took the saints to the ship and had them pass the Doctors examination. Twelve of them passed and went aboard, and two failed, namely, Krikor Orulluian and Khatun Aposhian. On acct of the latter her husband and 4 youngest children remained also. Their condition at having to part with each other, Krikor from his wife & children—Jos[eph], Moses & Azniv; and Zadik and Khatun from their children—Arusiac, Ferida & Yakob, was pittiful to see. Some acted excusably sorrowful and some, especially Krikor, unexcusably senseless in their demands and wishes etc., but finally all settled to a consent. Nersis & his family all got through, but he and Hovhannes barely escapped being refused. We intended to send Arzooman in Krikor’s place but the company would not accept the change so we sent him (A.) to Naples. I gave him 135 fr. as he had but little money and his wife & children were there with out much aid in Naples. I went to the ship the second time and bade them all farewell. Elder Shepherd returned with me to the city and then left about 6 p.m. for the boat again. They sailed sometime during the night on the Kronprinzessin Cecilie. Those of us who were [left] boarded the boat at night for Southampton but had to disembark on acct of not having our imigration papers ready.

August 18, 1908 (Tuesday) [Le Havre to London by steamship]

Spent the day in trying to find a way for these saints to get to Eng or Am but the chances are slim as the regulations are strict against Syrians, especially thoes with trachoma. Called at the Panama Consulate etal. In the evening I purchased a tickett for London for 26.20 fr. & boarded the Alma for Southampton.

August 24, 1908 (Monday) [Le Havre]

Read, Book of Mormon, News Papers etc. Wrote to Elder Thorup, & Mr Maghakian, Naples, to Reba & Pres Penrose, laying before him a proposition to send the Armenians to N.Y. I held a prayer meeting with the saints, and Bro Zadik & I administered to Bro Krikor & Sister Khatun, annointing their eyes against trachoma.

August 26, 1908 (Wednesday) [Le Havre]

Bot 2 spools of films (6 exposure) 1 $ .65 each. Talked with Menases, our Armenian candy dealer friend, at his room at 7 Rue de Galions. Also had a talk on the gospel with the man from the Agency of the Hamberg American line. He is the one who took us to the Mexican Consulate (See Mon 10.) Called again at American Consulate and received the following telegram, “Fares wired General Post Office” and after ward received cash in two payments, namely 1006 francs and 860 francs and a few centimes. This puzzles me as I do not understand the reason for the two payments neither the amount of the last one. I wrote for £40 or 1000 fr on “returned tickett acct” and mentioned needs of £25 for saints in Naples, £20 on personal acct, and £25 on carpet acct as I left the rugs in London and took the responsibility of them myself. And as I have received no other word in reply to my last three letters, this telegram is not clear to my mind. Concluded to wait till tomorrow.

August 27, 1908 (Thursday) [Le Havre]

Took Krikor & Khatun to Dr Brunsvic who examined them and gave them certificates that they were both entirely cured of Trachoma. Called at one or two S S companies to see if they would take them on that certificate. The Currier line came the nearest making a favorable offer but even theirs was doubtful for Canada.

August 28, 1908 (Friday) [Le Havre]

Called on Dr Gebrard and he pronounced the two emigrants free from any contageous desease. I settled up accts and intend to leave them here to look out for themselves as it seems difficult to do anything in the line of getting them off as their doctors claim they would be rejected in N.Y. on acct of having had trachoma.

August 29, 1908 (Saturday) [Le Havre to Zurich by train]

Received a letter from Pres Penrose, also enclosing one to him from Bro Hintze for me to read. There is still some misunderstanding concerning my bringing the Saints here or to Liverpool, but it will be clear to them perhaps later. I answered both the letters and left Havre on my return trip, bidding good bye to the Armenian Saints whom I am leaving to themselves to get to Am as soon as they can pass as I see no particular benefit in my remaining longer. Arrived in Paris at dark and after supper and a short strole about the vicinity of Gare de Est, I took the train and at 10.16 left for Zurich.

October 21, 1908 (Wednesday) [Aleppo]

Talked in Sisters Meeting on “Lungs & Resperation” as an incidental lesson. Received a letter from Arusiak Aposhian. She & the Armenian saints who left Havre Aug 17 with Elder Shepherd landed in Mexico and were in Dublan when she wrote Sept 21. They all seem worried and are anxious about their folks who were left and of whom word came yesterday that they had gone to Canada.

November 7, 1908 (Saturday) [Aleppo]

Word came that Zadik & family & Krikor arrived in Utah Oct 15 . . .

January 1, 1909 (Friday) [Aleppo]

The day was a mild one. I was at home most all day reveling and receiving callers, etc. Mail came bringing letters from Liverpool <in> one of which was inclosed a check for $10 from my sister, May Talmage; one from Pres Penrose informing me of the Armenian Saints who were in Mexico being taken to Utah by Bro Hintze.

Notes

[1] Excerpts from this section come from Booth Journals, vol. 6.

[2] From 1895 to 1897 the Armenian Latter-day Saints were without missionaries from Church headquarters owing to political unrest and widespread violence (known as the Hamidian Massacres) against Armenians in Eastern Anatolia at the hands of Ottoman troops and Kurdish irregular troops. The Aintab Branch sent Levon A. Sarkis, son of branch president Sarkis Nigoghosian, to Salt Lake City in 1897 to inquire of the First Presidency concerning the Church’s plans to return missionaries to the Turkish Mission. After being reassured that missionaries would be sent as soon as it was safe, Levon remained in Utah learning English so he could translate for the Church upon his return to Turkey. On August 5, 1898, he was set apart as a missionary to Turkey and left Salt Lake City in company with Booth but had a falling out with the missionaries en route and never fulfilled his mission. He later became antagonistic and created problems for the missionaries and members in Aintab. Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 66, 72. For more information on the Hamidian Massacres, see Astourian, “Silence of the Land”; Astourian, “On the Genealogy of the Armenian-Turkish Conflict”; and Klein, Margins of Empire.

[3] Elizabeth Moyle Hansen was Reba’s younger sister.

[4] Called was a common expression at the time to mean “stopped by for a visit.”

[5] Anthon Henrik Lund (1844–1921) of the Quorum of the Twelve had earlier in the year undertaken a special mission to Turkey and Palestine with Ferdinand F. Hintze to reorganize the branches of the Turkish Mission and select a site for a Church colony. See Lindsay, “Dream of a Mormon Colony,” 55–57; and Charles, “European LDS Missionaries,” 40–49.

[6] The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.

[7] The Oregon Short Line Railway. Robertson, Encyclopedia of Western Railroad History, 1:245–312.

[8] Frank J. Cannon (1859–1933) was a senator from Utah from 1896 to 1899. He later separated from the Church and became editor of the Salt Lake Tribune, which he used as a forum to oppose the Church and its president, Joseph F. Smith.

[9] John Andreas Widtsoe (1872–1952), newly married to Leah Dunford, was on his way to study at the University of Goettingen, Germany, for a PhD. After becoming an Apostle in 1921, he served as president of the European Mission from January of 1928 until October of 1933. Widtsoe, In a Sunlit Land, 53–54.

[10] Emma Lucy Gates (1880–1951), daughter of Susa Young Gates, was moving to Germany with the Widtsoes (Leah Widtsoe was her half-sister) to study music. There her talents were discovered, and she eventually became a renowned vocalist. Andrew Jenson writes that she was “Utah’s greatest singer” and the “first of the young sisters of the Church to go to Europe for her musical education and has won her way in the crowded art centers of the Old World.” Latter-day Saint Biographical Encyclopedia, 3:381.

[11] Booth, born and raised on terra firma in Utah, did not take to ocean voyages easily. He records several bouts of seasickness and vomiting, like this one, especially when seas were rough.

[12] The Latter-day Saints’ Millennial Star, which began in 1840, was the official publication of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Liverpool, England. At this time the Millennial Star was published weekly and was one of the major forums through which missionaries learned about and reported on events of interest in both the Church and the world. Evans, Century of Mormonism in Great Britain, 139–49. Evans provides a list of editors and associate editors of the Star on pages 246–47.

[13] Booth was an inveterate collector of mementos as he visited places of historical or family interest during his travels.

[14] Tract is the word for Church literature printed and distributed for the purposes of proselytizing.

[15] The letter d was the abbreviation for the English penny from denarius, a silver Roman coin. The penny was one-twelfth of a shilling, which was one-twentieth of a pound.

[16] A Voice of Warning, by Parley P. Pratt and originally published in 1837, was a book used as a missionary tract throughout the nineteenth century. Grant Underwood writes that “it was perhaps the most widely reprinted piece of LDS literature in history, aside from the Book of Mormon.” Millenarian World of Early Mormonism, 28. Booth probably used this edition: A Voice of Warning and Instruction to All People; or, An Introduction to the Faith and Doctrine of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, 15th ed. (Liverpool: Rulon S. Wells, 1898).

[17] The terms club and public house were synonyms for pubs or taverns in nineteenth-century England.

[18] Rulon S. Wells (1854–1951) was president of the European Mission and the British Mission from July 1896 until December 1898. One president presided over both missions until December 1928, when A. William Lund became president of the British Mission while John A. Widtsoe remained president of the European Mission.

[19] Located at Haifa was the German Branch, where Jacob Spori (1847–1903), a native of Switzerland and the first missionary to the Middle East (who incidentally was converted through Karl G. Maeser), had baptized the first converts in the Palestine area in 1886. Berrett and Van Dyke, Holy Lands, 39–49; Charles, “European LDS Missionaries,” 6–14; and Christianson, “Jacob Spori: Nineteenth-Century Swiss Missionary.”

[20] John Cabot (1450–99) was an Italian explorer who sailed in 1497 seeking a sea route to Asia from Bristol under the English flag and discovered what is now known as Canada.

[21] The “plunge bath” was a public bath. Public baths were common in England after the Victorian era when social reformers advocated building them to improve public health.

[22] Thomas Cook & Sons was the most prominent British travel agency of the time, facilitating travel, tourism, and pilgrimage to the Middle East. Swinglehurst, Cook’s Tours.

[23] Anthony C. Lund (1871–1935), son of Anthon H. Lund, would later head the music department at Brigham Young University and lead the Mormon Tabernacle Choir.

[24] The German pfennig is 1/100 of a mark.

[25] Philipp Melanchthon (1497–1560) was a German theologian, friend of Martin Luther, and outspoken proponent of the Protestant Reformation.

[26] Karl Godfrey Maeser (1828–1901) was an early educated convert from Saxony, Germany, and father of Brigham Young Academy in Provo. Burton, Karl G. Maeser, Mormon Educator; and Scharffs, Mormonism in Germany, 16–20. It is evident from Booth’s journals that he was profoundly influenced by Maeser while at the BYA. Some of the most lengthy and thoughtful tracts of his journals during this time were devoted to recounting lessons he had heard from Professor Maeser (February 9, 1888; April 2–3, 1888; May 10, 1888). His entries reflect not only admiration but also a developing maturity of thought and spiritual insight of which Professor Maeser was an integral part. See Booth’s entries from November 2, 1887; April 17, 1889; and May 14 and 27, 1889. This great respect for Karl G. Maeser developed at the BYA would continue throughout his life. Years later in Aleppo he recorded, “In sacrament meeting I took most of the time in a talk on Dr Karl G. Maeser” (December 26, 1926).

[27] Inst. is the abbreviation for instant, commonly used to mean “current month.”

[28] Galata, also known as Pera (from the Greek word meaning “beyond”), was the chief commercial district of Constantinople and the center of foreign residencies and embassies. Lying on the European side of the Bosphorus Strait and just north of the Golden Horn and the Muslim old city, it has traditionally been the non-Muslim residential section of the city.

[29] Ferdinand Friis Hintze (1854–1928), native of Denmark, labored in the Turkish Mission from January 1887 to December 1889, serving as president from September 1887 until his release. He returned with Apostle Anthon H. Lund in February 1898 and served as a roving missionary and then president of the mission until his release in December 1899. After returning to America, Hintze continued to labor on behalf of the Armenian members, arranging for Armenian emigration and supervising the printing of the first Armeno-Turkish Book of Mormon. For his efforts he is known as the “Father of the Armenian Mission.” Charles, “European LDS Missionaries,” 21–69; Jenson, Latter-day Saint Biographical Encyclopedia, 4:390–91; and Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 26.

[30] Joseph Marion Tanner (1859–1927), from Provo, Utah, served in the Turkish Mission from December 1885 to September 1887 after having been reassigned from the Swiss and German Mission. He was the second missionary sent to the Middle East after Jacob Spori. He later served as the general superintendent of Church schools, replacing Karl G. Maeser. Jenson, Latter-day Saint Biographical Encyclopedia, 1:709–11; and Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 12–23.

[31] Wilhelm II (1859–1941) was the kaiser (German for Caesar) of Germany. When Wilhelm came to power in 1888, his central ambition was to forge Germany into a world empire through strengthening its military and economy and colonizing territories outside Europe. In line with these policies, he sought to expand Germany’s sphere of influence into the strategic region of the Mediterranean by cultivating the Ottoman Empire as an ally, which would not only rebuff other imperial designs in the region but give Germany new markets for trade and investment. The kaiser made two state visits to Sultan Abdulhamid II, the first in 1889 and the second in 1898. On the latter trip, which extended to Damascus and Jerusalem, Wilhelm proclaimed Germany to be the friend of the world’s three hundred million Muslims, thus ingratiating himself with Abdulhamid II. The sultan was concurrently attempting to consolidate his position as Muslim caliph through his Pan-Islamic policy of a unified Islamic ummah. This would help stave off the expansion of European imperialism within the Muslim world by strengthening the Ottoman Empire as the last Muslim majority realm outside European control.

The ties between Germany and the Ottomans developed rapidly to include a German military mission to the Sublime Porte, trade agreements, technical assistance, and infrastructural projects, most notably the Berlin-Baghdad Railway. The Ottomans, particularly Sultan Abdulhamid II, were keen to develop this relationship in order to play other European rivals against each other and secure desperately needed foreign aid. This relationship culminated in the Ottomans joining World War I on the side of the Central Powers with Germany and Austria-Hungary. Simon, “Germany and the Middle East,” 2:699–700.

[32] Slang for bicycle.

[33] John Ross Macduff, The Footsteps of St. Paul (1855; repr., New York: Robert Carter & Brothers, 1877).

[34] May Booth Talmage was the wife of James Edward Talmage (1862–1933), Booth’s former professor at the BYA and later a member of the Quorum of the Twelve Apostles.

[35] The stereopticon, also called a stereoscope, was a popular form of entertainment in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. This double-lensed viewer paired photographs called “views” so that the image seen through the device appeared three-dimensional, allowing people to tour the world “in stereo” without leaving their own homes. Vogel, To See a Promised Land, 10. See Earle, Points of View. Latter-day Saint missionaries found the stereograph to be particularly useful for its ability to counteract the prevalent misrepresentations of Mormons and their way of life. Booth later wrote, “One thing that has assisted largely in breaking down prejudice against us is the exhibition of Utah views through a small stereoscope.” Booth, “Missionary in Asia Minor,” 737.

[36] There was a great variety of currency circulating in the Ottoman Empire, both legal and illegal, but those that Booth commonly dealt with included the mangir, para, piaster (also known as kurush or gurush), mejidiye, and lira, or Turkish pound. The mangir equaled approximately two para, forty para equaled one piaster, the mejidiye equaled twenty piasters, and one hundred piasters equaled one lira. Baedeker, Palestine and Syria (1894), xxviii–xxix; and Pamuk, Monetary History of the Ottoman Empire.

[37] Philip S. Maycock (1872–1907), from Salt Lake City, Utah, served in the Turkish Mission from August 1897 to June 1899 as president of the mission after having been reassigned from the Swiss and German Mission. He later served as a member of the general board of the Young Men’s Mutual Improvement Association.Jenson, Latter-day Saint Biographical Encyclopedia, 4:243, 391; and Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 67.

[38] Booth later gives a more complete description of the Turkish bath. See entry for January 14, 1899, Booth Journals, vol. 7.

[39] Brigham Young Academy (BYA) was established on October 16, 1875, in response to the booming educational needs of the territory and provided a Latter-day Saint alternative to the then growing public and Protestant educational institutions. Incidentally, when Booth was feeling “lonesome and out of place” at the BYA (October 17, 1887), it was the presence of religious learning that gave him the desire to persist in his studies: “I seem to feel much more interested in the school on account of theology being taught there” (October 31, 1887).

[40] The Golden Horn Bridge, also known as the Galata Bridge, crossed the famous Golden Horn waterway and connected Pera with the Old City or Stamboul on the European side of the Bosphorus Strait.

[41] Originally Byzantium and then Constantinopolis after 330 CE, Istanbul is a city of many names. The names Istanbul, Stanbol, and Stambol are all thought to be derived from a Greek phrase that means “to the city.” By the end of the sixteenth century the Greeks called the city Stimboli and the Ottomans Stambol. But many other names were employed during Ottoman rule, such as Kostantiniyye (“of Constantine”), punned Islambol (“where Islam abounds”), and numerous epithets like Dersaadet and Deraliye. Inalcik, “Istanbul,” 4:224. The spelling shown in Booth’s journal, “Stamboul,” was popularly used throughout the nineteenth century by visitors of Istanbul and its large expatriate community and specifically refers to the old part of the city south of the Golden Horn where the imperial palaces, mosques, and grand bazaars are located.

[42] Henry K. Anketell, former rector of St. Bartholomew and All Saints, Wootton Bassett, England, was minister of the British Embassy Chapel. Booth called him “one of the leading minsters of this city.” See Booth, “Missionary in Asia Minor,” 739.

[43] Short for the Latter-day Saints’ Millennial Star.

[44] The purser of a ship is an officer in charge of financial accounts, provisions, and passenger lists.

[45] The Levant Herald was one of the longest-running English/French language newspapers published in the Ottoman Empire (1856–1914). It focused on commercial, financial, political, and diplomatic news of the empire, as well as international news. It was published under the following names: Levant Herald, Constantinople Messenger, Eastern Express, and Levant Herald & Eastern Express. Çağlar, Anglophone Press in Constantinople, back cover.

[46] Ult. is the abbreviation for ultimo, meaning “last month.”

[47] S.S. is the common nautical abbreviation for steamship.

[48] The New Redhouse Turkish-English Dictionary says that helva is a “sweet prepared in many varieties with sesame oil, various cereals, and syrup or honey,” whereas a helvaji is a person that sells helva (p. 472).

[49] The initial letters of each line taken in order spell “I AM YOUR FRIEN–.”

[50] The St. Sophia, or Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in Turkish), is the famed domed basilica of Justinian I of Byzantine Constantinople, originally completed in 537 CE. After their conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the Ottomans converted the Hagia Sophia into their Grand Imperial Mosque, and it became the architectural archetype for all Ottoman imperial mosques.

[51] Mohamedans, a variant spelling of Muhammadans, is one of the nineteenth-century terms applied to Muslims, followers of the religion of Islam. The missionaries often used the term Islams as well.

[52] This is referring to Suleymaniye Mosque, the famous Ottoman imperial mosque designed by the preeminent Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan, in honor of Sultan Suleiman “the Magnificent.”

[53] Booth’s supposition is correct. Loretta Ann Whitby, a twenty-two-year-old, contracted typhoid fever while working at the home of James E. Talmage and died on October 13, 1898. Wild, Alpine Yesterdays, 236–37.

[54] Booth uses the term Asia Minor, the Latin name for the peninsula in West Asia between the Black and Mediterranean Seas, synonymously with its Greek name Anatolia, while he uses the name Turkey to refer to the countries of either the Ottoman Empire or the modern Republic of Turkey. In modern usage the name Anatolia technically refers to the interior plateau of Asia Minor. Held, Middle East Patterns, 462.

[55] See Booth, “Loom of Old Neptune,” 103.

[56] Largely because of the significant American missionary presence in the Ottoman Empire, the United States had expanded consular service in the nineteenth century to Alexandretta, Aleppo, Baghdad, Beirut, Erzurum, Harput, Jerusalem, Mersin, Sivas, Smyrna, and Trabzon. Grabill, Protestant Diplomacy and the Near East, 40.

[57] In this instance teskera or teskere refers to travel papers or a visa to travel within the Ottoman Empire.

[58] An arabaji is a driver of a cart or wagon.

[59] In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the Baedeker guidebooks were the most well known of travel books. With their care for detail and extensive information on everything from local hotels to a glossary of foreign words, the Baedeker guidebooks were indispensable for adventurous travelers.

[60] A khan is an inn where travelers could find lodging, meals, and provender for their animals. Another term for khan is caravanserai, reflecting its purpose as a rest house for the caravans that plied the trade routes and formed the lifeline of commerce throughout the Middle East.

[61] This is the Amuk Valley or plain of Antioch (Antakya in Turkish). In Booth’s time the lake of Antioch was centered in the valley and surrounded by marshy wetlands, but it no longer exists. The region is most well known for its famous city of Antioch, where the followers of Jesus were first called Christians (Acts 11:26).

[62] Armenag Dikran Shil Hagopian (1858–1912) was a medical practitioner who had studied in America and had been presiding elder of the Turkish Mission during the absence of missionaries in Turkey from 1895 to 1897. He and his wife Ovsanna (1871–1909) were faithful Latter-day Saints and friends to Booth throughout his first two missions. Their children, Khoren (Carl), Joseph (who later served as president of the Palestine-Syrian Mission), Henry, Enos, and Mary, eventually made their way to America, changing their name to Jacobs.

[63] Andrew Lund Larson (1869–1956), from Ephraim, Utah, served in the Turkish Mission from August 1897 until May 1900 after having been reassigned from the Swiss and German Mission. Larson, Andrew L. Larson Reminiscences and Journals; and Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 67–83.

[64] Sarkis Shil Hagopian (1846–1906), cousin of Armenag Shil Hagopian, was a dentist and later became president of the Aleppo Branch.

[65] Book inspections were the norm at this period of the Ottoman Empire, legal under the Law of Education of 1869. Baedeker warns that the “traveller’s luggage is generally subjected to examination. . . . Books are strictly examined.” Palestine and Syria (1894), xxxi. During Sultan Abdulhamid II’s reign (1876–1909), censorship laws expanded and were strictly enforced. Brummett, “Censorship in Late Ottoman Istanbul.” David Charles explains how this censorship affected Latter-day Saint printed materials, stating that “all printed materials were strictly examined and returned only once they were positively found not to be of a political nature. . . . Paranoia of printed matter posed a more substantial problem when large numbers of tracts or Books of Mormon were sent to the mission.” Charles, “‘You Had the Alps,’” 96.

[66] These Catholics were most likely local ethnic Armenians of the Catholic faith. The various Armenian communities in the Ottoman Empire consisted of many different Christian faiths, primarily of the Armenian Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant traditions.

[67] Lahmejoun in Armenian, and lahmacun in Turkish. Booth later describes this dish as a “preparation of minced meat and vegetables cooked on thin rolled cakes the size of a common American pie” (May 3, 1899). Sarafian in Briefer History of Aintab gives the recipe of this Aintab favorite, a meat pie made of lamb and various vegetables (p. 215). Today it is colloquially referred to as Turkish “pizza.”

[68] Booth is referring here to the controversy over Roberts, a practicing polygamist and Church leader, being seated in the United States House of Representatives. After winning the election in November, Roberts faced almost immediate national opposition. After he battled for a year to gain his seat, the House of Representatives voted overwhelmingly to exclude him. Madsen, Defender of the Faith.

[69] Haleb is the Turkish name for what Westerners call Aleppo, also called Halab in Arabic. According to both Jewish and Muslim legend, Abraham lived there for a time and milked his cows where the citadel now stands. Its name is derived from the Aramaic, Hebrew, and Arabic word for “milk.” Masters, “Aleppo: The Ottoman Empire’s Caravan City,” 17.

[70] David Charles writes, “Certain areas in the region were known to be unsafe, particularly mountain passes, isolated deserts, or otherwise sparsely populated territory” (“‘You Had the Alps,’”109). Foreigners were strongly advised, and in some cases required, by the Ottoman government to obtain armed guards for travel. Baedeker says, “Weapons are unnecessary on the main routes but indispensable on the others, as weapons, conspicuously carried, add a great deal to the importance with which the ‘Frank’ is regarded by the natives” (Palestine and Syria [1894], xxxiii). Booth later writes while journeying to Aintab that he hoped to overtake a caravan because it was “not safe for unarmed and unprotected footmen who have any appearance of ‘Well to do’ men, that is wearing coat and pants” (August 23, 1900).

[71] The katirji was a muleteer, a person who rented out pack animals for travel between cities. The Turkish word katir means “mule.”

[72] Aintab is now called Gaziantep, the name Turkey gave it in 1921 to honor Turkish resistance to the French occupation (gazi means “warrior” in Turkish). Sarafian calls Aintab “the Athens of Cilicia,” meaning the ancient coastal district lying at the northeastern corner of the Mediterranean Sea. Sarafian, Briefer History of Aintab. In Booth’s time it had a burgeoning Protestant Armenian community and a number of important educational and medical institutions, including the Central Turkey College, making it well suited as the location for mission headquarters.

In the early 1900s Aintab was described as a “town in the vilayet of Aleppo and ancient Cyrrhestica district of N. Syria. Pop. 45,000, two-thirds Moslem. . . . The modern town lies in the open treeless valley of the Sajur, a tributary of the Euphrates, and on the right bank, 65 m. northeast of Aleppo, with which it is connected by a chaussee, passing through Killis. This road proceeds east to the great crossing of Euphrates at Birejik, and thus Aintab lies on the highway between N. Syria and Urfa-Mosul and has much transit trade and numerous khans. Aintab is a comparatively clean and healthy spot, though not free from ophthalmia and the ‘Aleppo button,’ and it has been selected by the American Mission Board as its centre for N. Syria. Central Turkey College, educational and medical, lies on high ground west.” Encyclopedia Britannica, 11th ed. (1911), s.v. “Aintab.”

[73] Excerpts in this section come from Booth Journals, vols. 9 and 10.

[74] Booth’s name for his house in Alpine. See fig. 3.

[75] Translation: colloquial, “Hey guys.” Birader in Ottoman Turkish means “brother” in a friendly form of address.

[76] This bicycle tour is discussed in more depth in Charles, “‘You Had the Alps,’” 93–126.

[77] Translation: Booth’s attempt at creating a colloquial saying, “Our bright and shiny official documents.”

[78] Khanji is Turkish for “innkeeper,” from the word khan.

[79] Or kale, which means “tower” or “fortress.”

[80] Assadour Aram Altounyan (1854–1950), one of the first graduates under Dr. Fred Shepard at Central Turkey College, was a “surgeon of international fame who practiced at Aleppo for 60 years and founded there an up-to-date hospital of his own. He died in 1950 at the age of 96 years.” Sarafian, Briefer History of Aintab, 56.

[81] Sarkis Shil Hagopian (1846–1906), cousin of Armenag Shil Hagopian, was a dentist and later became president of the Aleppo Branch.

[82] “HAMAH, the Hamath of the Bible, [is] a Hittite royal city, situated in the narrow valley of the Orontes, 110 English miles N. (by E.) of Damascus. The Orontes flows winding past the city and is spanned by four bridges. On the south-east the houses rise 150 ft. above the river, and there are four other hills, that of the Kalah or castle being to the north 100 ft. high. Twenty-four minarets rise from the various mosques. The houses are principally of mud, and the town stands amid poplar gardens with a fertile plain to the west. The castle is ruined, the streets are narrow and dirty, but the bazaars are good, and the trade with the Bedouins considerable. The numerous water-wheels (naūrah,) of enormous dimension, raising water from the Orontes are the most remarkable features of the view. Silk, woolen and cotton goods are manufactured. The population is about 40,000.” Encyclopedia Britannica, 11th ed. (1911), s.v. “Hamah.”

[83] Catholic missionaries had been working extensively among Armenians since the seventeenth century. Due to their loss of millet status as a result of conversion, persecution from the Armenian Apostolic Church, and strong pressure from France, Catholics were designated a millet in 1831. Van den Boogert, “Millets: Past and Present,” 36. The story of Protestantism in the Ottoman Empire is similar. After missionaries from Great Britain and the United States gained converts in the first part of the nineteenth century, opposition from recognized sects and political pressure from Great Britain resulted in the creation of the Protestant millet in 1850. “Ottoman Decree Regarding Protestants, 1850.”

[84] Zabita is Turkish for “policeman.”

[85] The call to prayer, always recited in Arabic, means “There is no God but Allah, and Muhammad is the messenger of Allah.”

[86] Or pekmez, according to the New Redhouse Turkish-English Dictionary, 924. It is “grape-molasses” or “grape juice boiled into a sugary solid or a heavy syrup.”

[87] Palmyra (Tadmur in Arabic), situated midway between the Euphrates and Damascus, gained prominence as a trading center between the Roman Empire and Asia in the first century CE. The city-state’s most colorful leader was the famed Queen Zenobia, who rebelled against Roman suzerainty and gained control over all of Syria by 269 CE. In response to the upstart, Emperor Aurelian captured the queen and took her prisoner to Rome. Palmyra was subsequently sacked, never to regain its former glory. Andrade, Zenobia.

[88] The Alpine Monthly Gleaner was a local newspaper started in 1881 that included “jokes, words of advice, both temporal and spiritual, and letters of correspondence to pen pals of other communities or anything anyone wished to write about.” Wild, Alpine Yesterdays, 99.

[89] Vadi in Turkish or wadi in Arabic means a valley, a stream, or a dry streambed in a valley.

[90] Solomon’s famous cedars of Lebanon were mostly felled during the 1840s to build railroads in Egypt during Muhammad Ali’s occupation of Syria and Lebanon and his rule in Egypt.

[91] Booth means that the road is smooth enough for a “diligence,” a horse-drawn carriage.

[92] The Druze, who call themselves in Arabic al-muwahiddun (“those who worship the one God”), are an exclusive religious minority who reside in communities throughout the mountainous regions of present Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, and Israel. Known for their hospitality and fierce independence, the Druze have fascinated outsiders with their secret religion that is neither Islam nor Christianity. Booth’s later mention of a people “neither Mohammedan nor Christian” yet “nice & gentle and pious” (May 19, 1923) most likely refers to the Druze. With roots in Ismaili Shia and the intellectual, political, and religious ferment of eleventh-century Fatimid Egypt, their religion is strict Unitarianism, or Tawhid, but is syncretic in thought, incorporating elements from Jewish, Christian, Neo-Platonist, and Persian sources. The faith’s esoteric doctrine and secret rituals are known only to a minority of the Druze themselves, the initiated, who regard their religion as the “last link in the chain of divine knowledge which started with the beginning of human existence.” Makarem, Druze Faith, 5.

[93] The event that Booth is referring to is found in Matthew 16:13–16: “When Jesus came into the coasts of Caesarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, saying, Whom do men say that I the Son of man am? And they said, Some say that thou art John the Baptist: some, Elias; and others, Jeremias, or one of the prophets. He saith unto them, But whom say ye that I am? And Simon Peter answered and said, Thou art the Christ, the Son of the living God.”

[94] Cherkess is Turkish for “Circassians.” Circassian historian Amjad Jaimoukha writes, “The term Circassians . . . denotes all or part of the indigenous peoples of the Caucasus who live north of the Caucasus Range.” Circassians, 11. Booth is referring to the fair-haired, light-complected, generally Muslim descendants of Circassian refugees who fled to Ottoman lands in the wake of the Russian-Circassian War, which ended in 1864. With the help of the Cossacks, Russia conquered the Caucasus and subjugated its peoples, killing eight hundred thousand Circassians and driving two million more to an Ottoman Empire willing to receive Muslim refugees in order to “augment her waning military power” (p. 69). Jaimoukha writes, “It is impossible to over-emphasize the significance of the Russian conquest in the history of Circassia. Beyond doubt, it was the single most cataclysmic event that changed the destiny of the nation, and almost led to its extinction” (pp. 12–13).

[95] Bedouins are nomadic Arab tribes who live in tents and make their living primarily by tending sheep, goats, and camels.

[96] This traditional Arab musical instrument is probably an oud, the ancestor of the lute and the guitar in Europe.

[97] Booth is referring to Yesud Ha-Maʿala, a colony originally established by the Hovevei Zion (“Lovers of Zion”) movement on the edge of Lake Hula. Aaronsohn, Rothschild and Early Jewish Colonization.

[98] Circassian.

[99] The Sea of Galilee, named because of its position in the northern region of Galilee, was originally known in Hebrew as Chinnereth, from a settlement on the lake by the same name. It was later known by the Greek Gennesaret, probably related to the town of the same name on the northwest shore, while the name Tiberias was derived from the town at the southwest shore named after the Roman emperor.

[100] Booth is referring to the colony established by the German Catholic Palestine Society. Baedeker, Palestine and Syria (1894), 256.

[101] The Baedeker guide for tourists.

[102] Lokanta means “restaurant” in Turkish.

[103] Translation: “Compatriots, compatriots, this ninety para piece is only worth twenty para. You need to give me ninety para [for the oranges].”

[104] The German colony of Haifa was established in 1868 by the Templar Society, a group of German evangelical millenarians who had immigrated to Palestine believing that God’s people were to gather to the Holy Land in preparation for the second coming of Jesus Christ. See Berrett and Van Dyke, Holy Lands, 47–49; and Schölch, Palestine in Transformation. Although self-sustaining and economically successful, the colony disassociated itself from the rest of the community and at times had poor relations with the Ottoman government. Yazbak, Haifa in the Late Ottoman Period. Jacob Spori, the first missionary to the Middle East, targeted the German colony as a step toward proselytizing among Arabs.

[105] Jacob Hilt (1840–1918) and his wife Rosina Magdalena (1842–1927), German immigrants to Palestine, were a core part of the Haifa Branch. Rao Lindsay writes that “they made their home a haven for the missionaries and extended a warm welcome to all Mormons who visited Haifa.” Lindsay, “History of the Missionary Activities,” 58. When they left for America in 1904, they were the last members to leave Haifa; the rest had already emigrated or died.

[106] Johan Georg Grau (1840–1901) and his wife Magdalena (1837–88), German immigrants to Palestine, were the first converts of the Church in Palestine and the nucleus of the Haifa Branch. Jacob Spori baptized Georg Grau in 1886. After Magdalena’s death in 1888, Grau labored with Elder Janne Sjodahl in Palestine for a short time and then emigrated to Utah in 1893. By 1898 he had returned to Haifa and was the presiding elder of the German Branch (Turkish Mission).

[107] One of the many enterprises the missionaries engaged in to help support the financially struggling Armenian converts was a carpet manufacturing business. Since many of the members had weaving skills, they were able to make Oriental rugs and export them for sale in Zion’s Cooperative Mercantile Institution (ZCMI) in Utah. Oriental rugs were a top export commodity from the Ottoman Empire to Europe and North America.

[108] Seiss, Miracle in Stone.

[109] Adolf Haag, born in Stuttgart, Germany, died in 1892 of typhus, and John Clark, born in Farmington, Utah, died in 1895 of smallpox. Both are buried in Haifa, Palestine (now Israel). Haag emigrated from Germany to Payson, Utah, and was married with two children when called to the Turkish Mission. As noted in a previous footnote in part I, Haag and Clark are two of the five Latter-day Saint missionaries who died and were buried while serving in the Turkish or Armenian missions. For more on Haag, see Draper and Jackson, Missionary’s Story. Concerning Clark, see Pingree, “‘And Your Name Will Be Remembered.’” Journals and correspondence of both missionaries are located in the Latter-day Saint Church History Library, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[110] Booth uses a variation of the Turkish term vize, probably from the French ������é, to mean that an Ottoman official examined his passport and issued a travel visa to Aintab.

[111] Arabic name of Tripoli, in present-day Lebanon.

[112] Translation: “Welcome,” as a host would say when greeting a guest at arrival.

[113] This section comes from Booth Journals, vol. 11.

[114] The Turkish word for the city of Alexandretta.

[115] The Singer Company, established in New York in 1851 as a manufacturer of a new and innovative sewing machine, claimed 80 percent of the worldwide market share in sewing machines by 1890. Joseph Grabill writes, “Prominent United States firms operating in Turkey were the American Tobacco Company, the Standard Oil Company of New York (Socony), the Singer Sewing Machine Company (with about two hundred agencies and stores), and the Western Electric Company of Chicago.” Protestant Diplomacy and the Near East, 38.

[116] Ottoman-Armenian movement and travel within and beyond the Ottoman Empire, particularly to the United States, was strictly controlled by the Ottoman state, which feared Armenian revolutionary activity against the empire in the wake of the Hamidian Massacres of Armenians (1894–97). Gutman, “Migrants, Revolutionaries, and Spies,” 284–88.

[117] These are long and slender rowboats used on the Bosphorus and the Mediterranean. The French spelling is caique, from the Italian caicco and Turkish kayik.

[118] Cyprus had been under the administrative control of Great Britain since the Berlin Congress of 1878.

[119] The Boer War (1899–1902) was a clash in South Africa between the British colonial rulers and the settlers of Dutch, German, and Huguenot origin, called Boers or Afrikaners, who occupied the Transvaal region. The British wanted control of the Transvaal to access its enormous gold deposits and thwart the Boers from linking up with the Germans in South West Africa, while the Boers wanted an independent state.

[120] Booth is referring to the Syrian Protestant College (now the American University of Beirut) founded in 1866 by Daniel Bliss, an American missionary who was its president until 1902. Similar to Robert College in Istanbul in its origin and purpose, the Syrian Protestant College was established independent of the American Board in order to provide for a mushrooming demand for Western education. Unlike Robert College, instruction was primarily in Arabic. As Grabill explains, “The goal was to organize a liberal arts program which would develop the physical, intellectual, and moral potential of students from any ethnic group or religion, and especially train leaders for the local Protestant community.” Protestant Diplomacy and the Near East, 24. See Lindsay, Nineteenth Century American Schools in the Levant, 171–95.

[121] Hosref Kulunjian had mailed a letter to Lorenzo Snow with a request for money, by which he received the means to emigrate to America.

[122] Port Said lies at the northern entrance of the Suez Canal in Egypt.

[123] The Copts are the largest Christian community in the Middle East, most of whom reside in Egypt, where they have generally coexisted with the larger Muslim population in peace. According to tradition, they were evangelized by St. Mark. The Coptic Church preserves an ancient form of Christianity and is the descendant of what was once the most influential center of Christian scholarship and theology. It is also the home of Christian fathers like Origen, Clement, and Cyril the Great. Atiya, Copts and Christian Civilization.

[124] The quay is a wharf where ships are loaded or unloaded.

[125] Booth’s comment about “the Plague” probably refers to the black death, or bubonic plague, that ravaged Europe and the Ottoman Empire intermittently for centuries. See Bolaños, “Pandemics in Ottoman History.”

[126] The Crucifixion of Philip Strong was written by Charles M. Sheldon and first published in 1894.

[127] The lines are from “The Village Preacher,” by the poet Oliver Goldsmith (1728–74).

[128] The Strait of Messina, between the island Sicily and Calabria on the mainland.

[129] This is Saim Abd al-Samid (note that Booth sometimes spells the name “Siam”). He is the only Muslim convert to the Church mentioned in the Booth journals, adhering privately to his adopted Christian faith and never revealing his conversion to his Muslim family and friends. See Parshall, “Saim Abd al-Samid: ‘That Tried Friend’”; and “Saim Abd al-Samid: ‘All Unknown’ No More.”

[130] The Union Pacific Railroad connected with the Central Pacific Railroad at Promontory Point, Utah, on May 10, 1869, forming the first transcontinental rail line in the United States.

[131] Nishan K. Sherinian (1860–1945) was the presiding elder of the Zara Branch. His remarkable conversion in 1888 is recounted in Berrett and Van Dyke, Holy Lands, 1–3, 59. There is a photo of him and his family and a short account of their life in Zara in Sheranian, Odyssey of an Armenian Doctor, 20–25. His daughter Arick typed his journal, and it can be found in the Church History Library, Salt Lake City.

[132] Excerpted from Booth’s letter to Heber J. Grant, president of the European Mission, dated June 9, 1905. See Booth, “Missionary Adventures in Asia Minor,” 433–36; and Booth Journals, vol. 13, May 30, 1905.

[133] Excerpts in this section come from Booth Journals, vol. 14.

[134] For more on the experiences of Latter-day Saint Armenians from Zara and their immigration experiences, see Orullian, Orullian Family History; George Z. Aposhian interview; Kelsey, “Diary of Hagop Thomas (Tumas) Gagosian”; and Bladh, Trail of Courage and Faith.

[135] “Tezkeras vezied” is a Booth and missionary colloquialism for getting their travel papers authorized for travel within the Ottoman Empire. This was in preparation for their travels to accompany the immigrating Armenian Latter-day Saints.

[136] Terki vatan or Terk-i Tabiiyet means renouncing or relinquishing one’s citizenship. Armenians who wanted to emigrate to the United States during the late Hamidian period (1896–1908) had to renounce their Ottoman citizenship and agree not to return to the empire. Ottoman officials feared that Armenians traveling to the United States would be radicalized, return to the Ottoman Empire, and engage in separatist and revolutionary activities against the state as a result of the Hamidian Massacres (1894–97) that killed an estimated three hundred thousand Armenians in Eastern Anatolia. Gutman, “Travel Documents, Mobility Control, and the Ottoman State.”

[137] Booth is referring to an Egyptian company, Khedive, which means “lord” in Persian and was the title given to the governors of Egypt who had been independent from the Ottoman Empire since the time of Muhammad Ali.

[138] William Jennings Bryan (1860–1925), three-time Democratic nominee for president and later secretary of state under Woodrow Wilson, was one of the most well-known orators and public figures of the time.

[139] This declaration by Sultan Abdulhamid II was in response to military officers stationed in Macedonia threatening to march on Istanbul and dethrone the sultan unless he restored the 1876 Ottoman Constitution that he prorogued in 1878. The group was known as the Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), or more popularly the Young Turks. This uprising ushered in the “Young Turk Era,” or more accurately the Second Constitutional Era in the Ottoman Empire. After an attempted countercoup in 1909 by supporters of Sultan Abdulhamid II, the sultan was deposed, thus opening the way for the CUP to consolidate political power within the empire. Zürcher, Turkey, 90–110.

[140] This is referring to a shipment of copies of the Book of Mormon sent from the United States to the Latter-day Saint branch in Aleppo that had been confiscated by Ottoman authorities and were being held in Alexandretta (İskenderun). See Booth Journals, vol. 14, August 7, 1908.

[141] Orison Swett Marden, “Who Gives Himself for Principle,” The Editor’s Chat, Success Magazine, August 1908, 511. In the magazine, only the first line (after the title) is attributed to “Lowell,” or the American poet James Russell Lowell (1819–91), the rest being the editor’s words.