Fort Kearny, Nebraska Territory, to Fort Laramie, Nebraska Territory

July 2-July 27, 1859

"Fort Kearny, Nebraska Territory, to Fort Laramie, Nebraska Territory: July 2-July 27, 1859," in Pushing and Pulling to Zion: The Eighth Handcart Company Trek Day by Day in 1859, ed. Reid L. Neilson (Provo, UT: Religious Studies Center, Brigham Young University; Salt Lake City: Deseret Book), 93124.

As on the way the carts are hurled

’Twould very much surprise the world

To see the old and feeble dame

Lending her hand to push the same.

The young girls they will dance and sing

The young men happier than a king

The children they will laugh and play

Their strength increasing day by day.

—John D. T. McAllister, “The Hand Cart Song,” verse four

Historical Introduction

The Mormon Trail, which followed the northern bank of the Platte River, led handcart and wagon pioneers past Fort Kearny, Nebraska Territory, which stood on the river’s south bank. “Just as in ancient times all roads led to Rome, so on the frontier of the Great American Desert all roads led to Fort Kearny on the Platte. Here at the head of the fabled Grand Island all of the trails radiating from the Missouri River border towns converge to form the main line of the Great Platte River Road,” trail historian Merrill J. Mattes explains. “Fort Kearny was the true beginning of the Great Platte River Road, for it was here that various trail strands joined to become one grand highway for the westward migrations. . . . It was across from Fort Kearny that the Council Bluffs Road [Mormon Trail] became part of the primitive superhighway which was the Great Platte River Road.”[1] Until they reached Fort Laramie in the West, Latter-day Saints traveled in wagon and handcart companies on the north side of the Platte River, while others traveling on the Oregon and California Trails traveled on the south side.

Both Latter-day Saint and “Gentile” overlanders faced the same obstacles as they traveled this parallel trail network from the Fort Kearny vicinity to their ultimate destinations in the West. “Here was an immense wilderness of arid plains, rugged mountains, and burning deserts, to be crossed,” Mattes says in a classic essay about the Council Bluffs Road. “Aside from thirst and starvation, there were other perils lurking to strike down the emigrants—drownings at river crossings, getting run over by wagon wheels, caught in a stampede of oxen or trampled by onrushing buffalo, killed—or worse yet, captured—by Indians, afflicted with Asiatic cholera, smallpox, mumps, measles, or scurvy, getting stabbed or shot by a fellow emigrant, or more often accidentally shooting yourself through carelessness, or dying from fatigue and exposure.” He estimates that during the twenty-five years of overlander wagon travel from the Missouri River to the Pacific coast, on average there were about five graves blemishing each trail mile.[2]

Although the Latter-day Saint emigrants had already met some disappointed fortune hunters returning from the mines of Pike’s Peak that May while overnighting in Hannibal, Missouri, the handcart pioneers would begin encountering “Pike’s Peakers” with increasing frequency as they reached Fort Kearny and beyond.[3] The Pike’s Peak Gold Rush of 1859 had begun the previous July, when argonauts prospecting near modern-day Denver in the Rocky Mountains discovered gold while panning in the foothill rivers.[4] This Colorado Gold Rush (Colorado at the time being represented by western Kansas Territory and southwestern Nebraska Territory), as it later became called, “may have been second only in size to the California excitement of 1849. Estimates suggest that almost 100,000 took part. Having been hard hit by the depression of 1857, the Mississippi Valley was filled with restless people who were ready for a speculative chance farther west.” Additionally, “The Pike’s Peak rush was still on when disillusioned gold seekers began trudging back across the plains to the Missouri frontier, convinced they had been fooled by exaggerated reports. Yet newcomers continued to arrive and new place and lode diggings were opened, until the boom collapsed in the mid-1860s.”[5]

Church members in Utah were well aware of the mining activities to their east over the Rocky Mountains. A teamster from Miller, Russell and Company, a major wagon freighting company serving the West, arrived that June in Salt Lake City after carrying mail from Atchison, Kansas, with news from the Midwest. “He reports thousands of emigrants on the way from the States via Pike’s Peak to California—most of them intending to pass through this city,” wrote the Deseret News. “The reports from the mines in western Kansas [Colorado] were far more favorable than they were a few weeks since.”[6] Another Deseret News article noted: “Companies of Pike’s Peakers are passing through this city daily for California; some of them have fine teams and others will have none at all soon, as the animals they have are evidently used up.”[7] Thankfully, the Pike’s Peakers were generally friendly with the Latter-day Saint pioneers, often camping alongside them and offering them fresh milk and buffalo meat, as well as the meat from their deceased livestock.[8] However, a few handcart pioneers decided to abandon Zion to join with the Pike’s Peakers.[9]

From Fort Kearny, the members of the Eighth Handcart Company continued to travel on the north bank of the Platte River (the Mormon Trail or Council Bluffs Road) until they merged with the Oregon-California Trail, which followed the Platte’s south bank near Fort Laramie. To follow the Eighth Handcart Company’s route from Fort Kearny, Nebraska Territory to Fort Laramie, Nebraska Territory in summer 1859, see “Map 3. Mormon trails in eastern Nebraska,” “Map 4. Mormon trails in western Nebraska,” and “Map 5. Mormon Pioneer Trail in eastern Wyoming, 1847,” in Stanley B. Kimball’s Historic Sites and Markers along the Mormon and Other Great Western Trails.[10]

Source Note

Thomas McIntyre, diary, CHL; Henry Hobbs, diary, CHL; Hans Olsen Magleby, diary, CHL; and Mathias Brock Nilsson, diary, CHL.

Document Transcripts

Saturday, July 2, 1859 (day 24 on the Mormon Trail)

[McIntyre] Prayer by William Hobbs. We start at six a.m. and pursue our journey in gloomy silence among dust for fifteen miles. Glad to rest for dinner two hours, continue another five miles and camp at Buffalo Creek,[11] good water but little wood. There is a very good substitute which we had to use very often called “buffalo chips” or buffalo dung, but ofttimes you could see a sister coming into camp rejoicing in an apron full of a mixture of all kinds of quadruped[12] manure to make her campfire with.

[Hobbs] Left at six a.m. and traveled twenty miles. Camped for several hours at Carrion Creek. We found several good springs close by, also water for the cattle where we camped at night. We obtained wood, water, and buffalo chips. At night I took the first camp guard from nine till twelve.

[Magleby] Had a very pleasant journey this day. We saw some buffaloes.

[Nilsson] We traveled twenty miles.

Sunday, July 3, 1859 (day 25)

[McIntyre] According to orders we are early astir this morning. We roll out at six o’clock [a.m.] and travel six miles without a halt, all trying their best to make a good day’s travel, when we learn that the axletree of one [of] the provision wagons has broken, and of course dispirited we turn into camp on Buffalo Creek. A few Indians of the Sioux Tribe[13] are camped here. We very soon make friends with them. We had not been in camp an hour when two fine buffalo were seen but a short distance from camp.

The Indians thinking their game had come immediately threw all the trappings[14] off their ponies and started in pursuit with their pistols. They soon got up on them and gave chase to one, which they soon killed and brought portions of it into camp, which they distributed very freely among the sisters. In the evening we have a very good fellowship meeting rendered very interesting by two brethren [“Stoddard and his son”][15] from the [Salt Lake] valley. The Indians also attend meeting, sit very quiet, and seemed much pleased. The Saints enjoy themselves and feel well. At night when retiring to rest we are startled by a wild Indian’s cry or yell. For a moment we did not [know] what to think. Some of us thought that they had turned traitor and their war whoop was the signal for hostilities. Soon it turned into a strange sort of singing, and fears were soon quieted by learning that they were merry and were come to do our big chief [George Rowley] honor or serenade him, which they did in a remarkable odd way.

[Hobbs] Started at five a.m. and traveled twelve miles. Camped at Buffalo Creek. Met with a band of Indians who were well armed and plenty of horses. They were called Sioux and were expecting the Pawnees[16] to battle with them. They were quite friendly and shook hands with us and went and killed a buffalo for us and brought the meat several miles on their horses and distributed it among the people. I and my wife [Jane Hobbs] had several pounds, which was excellent. Had an excellent testimony meeting in the evening. Some good testimonies were borne, and the Saints rejoiced. Two of the Indians was at meeting. In the night four of the Indians came into our camp, danced and yelled and made a fearful noise. Some of the brethren and sisters were most terribly scared and thought the Indians were upon them. Others were calm and serene; this was only a little of their frolic. They would have liked to have taken two or three of our sisters for wives. One of them took a sister’s portrait on a tin cup. It was taken in the same style as the hieroglyphics[17] in the Pearl of Great Price.[18]

[Magleby] Broke camp early. Had a good road. Passed a number of Indian camps consisting of thirty men who appeared to be well provided with weapons and with horses. Six of them followed us until we camped. During the afternoon two buffaloes approached the camp, and at our request two of the Indians hunted them and killed one of them, and brought some of the meat to the camp, which they divided among us so that we had the opportunity to taste the meat of this animal. These Indians remained in our camp all night.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at five o’clock a.m. and traveled about ten miles, when we passed an Indian camp perched on a hill to the left of the road. The camp was occupied by warriors, as we saw no women and children. The savages fired some shots to scare us, but we went over the hill and down to Buffalo Creek, where we made our camp. Some of our people who lingered behind the handcarts made big jumps when they heard the cracks of the Indian’s guns. Most of us were shaking a little with fear, as these were the first Indians we had seen on our journey. Our five wagons were way back, so the captain [George Rowley] called on six or seven of us young men to go back and assist in protecting the wagons from the Indians if necessary. Recrossing the hill, we soon saw the wagons coming all right, and soon they were all safe in camp.

We laid over all day, as one of our old wagons had broken down. All the Indians went away, except three of them who put up their wickiup[19] south of our camp a short distance. These Indians visited our camp during the day. We saw several buffalo south of us on the plain between us and the Platte River. One of the Indians asked us if we liked buffalo meat; on being answered in the affirmative, one of the Indians went out and killed a buffalo and brought some of the meat to our camp. This was a real feast for us, as we had eaten nothing but a small piece of bacon with our bread since we left the Missouri River.[20] In the evening I was one of the guards around the camp. About eleven o’clock p.m., the three Indians came into our camp and made their way to the captain’s tent. They had rings on a stick, and they commenced singing and rattling their sticks so that we thought it meant a signal of war. In haste we turned out with our guns but soon found out that the Indians had come to serenade our captain and company. Soon the Indians returned to their own camp and we felt as brave as ever.

Monday, July 4, 1859 (day 26)

[McIntyre] We make an early start this morning, make good time. Travel twenty-five miles and camp beside the Platte River. Prayer by Brother [William] Scogings.

[Hobbs] Left at seven a.m. and traveled ten or eleven miles and then camped several hours to rest ourselves and to bury an aged Scandinavian sister [Elna Johannson] which died in the wagon this morning. We have no water and have come several miles over hills and sand.[21] This is rather trying, but all is right; we will learn experience, which will be good for us. There was a wagon broke down yesterday, which detained us considerably. This morning the Indians were loath to leave us and followed us some distance on their horses and gave some of the Saints the ropes round their horses’ necks and helped to draw the carts. Traveled this day twenty-five miles and camped by the Platte River with a company of Pike’s Peakers. They gave us some milk, etc. Today they have been keeping up the Fourth of July.

[Magleby] Very pretty weather but no water or fuel until during the evening, when we came to a camping place. Today an old Swedish sister [Elna Johannson][22] died. We buried her about noon on a hill. I conducted the ceremony.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at six o’clock in the morning, traveled about thirteen miles, and halted for dinner. Here water was scarce, and we had to stay in this camping place about three hours, as an old lady died last night or early this morning. Her name was [Elna] Johansson from Holland, Sweden, the mother of [Anders] Johansson,[23] who together with his family were with us. The old lady was sixty-seven years old and died with the summer complaint.[24] In the afternoon we traveled about twelve miles and camped by the Platte River.

Tuesday, July 5, 1859 (day 27)

[McIntyre] Prayer by Brother Mark Lindsey. We leave this place at nine a.m. in good spirits. While pursuing our journey we learn that one of our number has died. Elna Johansson, aged sixty-seven years, from Sweden. We remain here for two hours while the Scandinavians attend to the rites of her burial. She is buried as near as I can tell twelve miles west of the point nearest to Platte River, about thirty-seven miles west of Buffalo Creek and about seventy yards from the old road on a rising ground. We start again and make another five miles and camp again beside the “Platte.” Prayer by Peter Later.[25]

[Hobbs] Traveled seventeen miles. Got but little water, and that was bad. Camped by the Platte River. At night two men came back from the Pike’s Peak camp, which was eight miles ahead of us, and told us they wanted two of our girls. Of course they had [made] their journey for nothing.

[Magleby] Received provisions, flour, bacon, and tea, after which we traveled fifteen miles. Good roads.

[Nilsson] We broke up camp at eight o’clock a.m. and traveled all day over a good road. We camped for the night near the Platte River, and as we had no wood for fuel, we did our cooking with buffalo chips.

Wednesday, July 6, 1859 (day 28)

[McIntyre] We have quite a number of invalids—thirty-eight who are footsore and who are obliged to ride in the provision’s wagons. We start at eight [a.m.] and travel through heavy sand for ten miles and pitch our tents beside the Platte [River].

[Hobbs] Traveled ten or eleven miles, a good portion of it through sand and water and mud. We had some hard pulling to get through. My wife [Jane Hobbs] found a tortoise. Camped near to the Platte River. A good spring of water close by, which was very refreshing. Today the breezes are very reviving and take away a good portion of the heat of the sun.

[Magleby] Broke camp somewhat late. Had a good road during the forenoon. About noon we traveled through a very heavy sand deposit. Camped during the evening by the Platte River because of a broken wagon. In the evening held prayer meeting in a tent.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at five o’clock in the morning and traveled over a very heavy, hilly, and sandy road until four o’clock p.m. An axle had broken in one of our old wagons. We had to lay over at this camping place until three o’clock p.m. the next day to get the wagon fixed.

Thursday, July 7, 1859 (day 29)

[McIntyre] We remain here until a new axletree is made for one of our wagons, and at three p.m., we are on the road again and make ten miles before nine p.m. and camp [by] the road where there is neither wood nor water.

[Hobbs] Did not leave till half past two o’clock, as we had to wait for a wagon being repaired. Today the sun is very powerful. Traveled some eleven miles through a considerable deal of sand.[26] It was hard pulling, and at half past eight [p.m.] some of the Saints complained about going six miles farther, so Captain [George] Rowley stopped the camp where there was no wood or water. This did not suit some who desired to go farther to where there was water.

[Magleby] Repaired the broken wagons so that we start on our journey somewhat late. It was very warm and a heavy road. We camped late. Many of us are without provisions.

[Nilsson] We continued our journey in the afternoon, traveled ten miles, and formed our encampment for the night about nine o’clock p.m. We had no water, and some of the emigrants had neither bread nor water. We lay down to rest without eating, as it was too late to distribute provisions and no water wherewith to do the cooking.

Friday, July 8, 1859 (day 30)

[McIntyre] We get out of this place as early as possible in order to get to water, which we do in about seven miles’ travel, which brings us again side to side with our favorite Platte [River]. Here we camp. Like the Israelites traveling in the wilderness, the spirit of murmuring is manifested among a few of the Saints, and its blighting influence is felt all over the camp. The cause of complaint being against the captain [George Rowley] and scarcity of provisions. We are detained here until we can obtain a better feeling before we proceed on our journey. A meeting is called where we are addressed by Captains Rowley, [Mark] Lindsey, [Thomas] Maycock, [William] Scogings, and [Henry] Hobbs. The four hours spent in this meeting had a very good effect on all present and especially on the grumblers, who acknowledged their folly and promised to do better in [the] future.

[Hobbs] Soon after three a.m. the camp rolled out and went six miles before breakfast. Some few were weak, as they had eaten up their provisions. We passed by several lovely boiling springs and got some of the best water we had got on the plains. We had a good deal of sand to go through, which tried some very much. Because of much murmuring in the camp, Captain [George] Rowley would not let us go on any further till a meeting was called and things put right. At five p.m. meeting commenced by singing and prayer. Brother Rowley opened his mind somewhat to the people and then called on the captains of ten to speak their feelings. Brother [Mark] Lindsey said there had been much grumbling in his company, and he hoped it would be put a stop to. Brother [William] Scogings then spoke of some fathers who snapped at their wives and children all day, and in the morning, as soon as they awoke, they were at it again. He asked them to deal righteously with each other and be courteous and kind, and then their children would do right. Brother Rowley spoke about persons grumbling because there was no more sugar, no coffee, and that the teamsters had as much as they liked to eat, and others had not. He also spoke some little about some potatoes that he had given him and asked if it was the people’s business what he did with them; and as for the sugar, he said if Brother [George] Cannon had told them that there was one-half pound of sugar weekly for each person, he had not seen but three bags; and as for coffee, he had seen none, and that if the Saints had all the little knickknacks they wanted, that twenty wagons would not have brought the articles; and he was sure the money they had paid would not be sufficient to furnish those things. He asked if they did not expect to meet with a few trials and have to sacrifice a few luxuries on such a journey. If they did not, they would surely be disappointed. He said some had threatened to examine the wagons, but if they attempted that game, he would horsewhip them and cut them off, and they should not travel in our camp, and those who murmured and upset the peace of the camp should be cut off. He said if the murmuring was not put a stop to, there would be a mutiny. He spoke of persons stealing cakes from the carts from poor women. He said they were not Mormons but hypocrites. Brother [Thomas] Maycock spoke of the murmuring. He said that some, as soon as they got into a sand hill, they cursed and swore and would say it was not right for to bring them into such places, and that if a stone was in their way, they felt to curse the God that put it there. Quite a number of Gentiles were listening to what was said. Brother Rowley said he would have that that was upright and just, and that was Mormonism; and those who could not live and do right with us could not live in Salt Lake, for the men there were determined to have the people do right. He spoke of the many slanderous reports brought against us by one and the other and said if those around us understood our true position and would not set their hearts against the truth, ten minutes would not elapse before they came forth and were baptized. I spoke and said that I had heard none of this grumbling in my company, and if there was it was behind my back. I referred to the time we were on the bosom of the great deep and to the excellent character given us by Captain [Rowley] and President [Robert] Neslen and then asked if they could now give us such a character. I said I hoped we would put away from us everything contrary to truth and righteousness, murmuring and everything else, and then we would go on our way rejoicing and would still have our good character when we got to Zion, etc. I also spoke of the many disembodied spirits that followed our camp and how liable we were to be overcome if we were not humble and on the watchtower. Many of the brethren confessed their faults and asked for forgiveness and promised to do better. All were forgiven by the unanimous voice of the people, and meeting broke up. Tonight I went on guard p.m. Seven cans of flour given out today, a few beans, and some biscuits.

[Magleby] Broke camp early and followed a heavy road some six to eight miles before breakfast. Camped at eight o’clock by a river. Here provisions for one day were distributed. We remained there throughout the day. During the evening the captain [George Rowley] held a sermon on repentance, in which he said that devils were among us.

[Nilsson] We broke up camp at four o’clock in the morning, traveled six miles, and camped about nine a.m. on the Platte River. Here provisions for seven days were distributed to us consisting of seven cups of flour and one-half pound of crackers for each person. We laid over the remainder of the day. We had some trouble in camp. Some of the English Saints censured the captain [George Rowley] for trading off our provisions and starving the people. We had been without bacon for several days. A meeting was held in the afternoon, and peace was restored in camp. A small company coming from California camped by us overnight. Some of them gave us some coffee.

Saturday, July 9, 1859 (day 31)

[McIntyre] We start at eight a.m. traveling slowly, the provision wagons in the front. We meet a California [wagon] train. They tell us that they left behind them two lame oxen; if we found them, we were welcome to them. Two of our boys came into camp today with the story that they were chased by wolves.[27] They had gone in search of the two lame oxen [and] when crossing a ravine saw seven or eight wolves running in the direction they were and of course they ran as fast as their legs could carry them, never once looking back until they were within sight of camp. We camp near the road which joins the Platte [River]. We passed today Skunk and Mestaphers Creeks. Traveled fourteen miles. Prayer by Brother [Henry] Olpin.

[Hobbs] Left the River Platte at [eight] a.m. and traveled [fourteen] miles, then camped near to a company of Pike’s Peakers on the edge of the River Platte for several hours. Our new acquaintances seemed much pleased with us and gave us lots of milk. Today it is very warm but a fine breeze. Roads good. Some of the boys are fishing, and some are enjoying their rest. All around us looks charming; the broad majestic river with some lovely hills and trees in the distance is really charming.

[Magleby] Broke up camp. Pleasant journey, both as to weather and road. Camped in the afternoon for lunch. Fell in with a company bound for California. They camped near us. We obtained some milk from them.

[Nilsson] Resuming our journey at nine o’clock a.m., we traveled nineteen miles over a good road.

Sunday, July 10, 1859 (day 32)

[McIntyre] Sabbath morning, this is an interesting day with us, plenty of company. Two California [wagon] trains camp beside us. We start in company of one of them; the other remains behind for a day’s rest. They have been very pleasant company. We meet six wagons of apostate Mormons from Salt Lake City[28] finding fault with everything and everybody and talk of unhorsing our captain. We pass over several creeks without accident, and at North Bluff Creek we meet a larger camp of Sioux Indians, who are very friendly. We camp near the Platte [River] again. Prayer by Mark Lindsey.

[Hobbs] Left at [blank] and traveled ten miles and then camped to get dinner. Passed through two creeks. Had lots of fun. We also traveled through some sand. Met a wagon train of apostates. They were filled with an evil spirit and looked devilish. One of the nincompoops[29] said something about whipping our captain [George Rowley]. It was a good job for him that he closed up his mouth, or he would have got what Paddy gave the drum [that is, a beating]. After dinner traveled six miles, crossed over [blank]. Here we were met by a large band of Indians, some on fine horses, some on foot. They had a large company of the rising generation with them. They let us have a number of moccasins for old handkerchiefs, flour, etc. Quite a number of them, both men and women, helped us along through the sand. They shook hands very heartily with us and seemed delighted to see us. They were the Sioux. They showed us the shallowest part to cross over the water, and they did not forget to have a laugh at our women up to their knees in water. We had as much as sixty men on watch tonight to prevent our cattle from being stolen.

[Magleby] Continued. Had a good road during the forenoon, but sand and hills during the afternoon. We passed another Indian camp. Many of them followed us to our camping place. Some of our people traded with them. A company of apostates passed us today.

[Nilsson] Continuing our journey at eight o’clock a.m., we traveled over good roads all the morning. In the afternoon we passed an Indian settlement inhabited by several hundred Indians, men, women, and children. Some of these savages were really good looking and were very friendly to us. One of the chiefs offered me eight ponies for one of the young women traveling with my handcart. We passed the Indians, and about a mile from their camp at a creek called Big Buffalo Creek, we camped for the night. During the day we traveled fourteen miles. Some of the Indians visited us in the evening.

Monday, July 11, 1859 (day 33)

[McIntyre] We start early in company with our California friends and the Indians. We pass over ten miles of sand bluffs, the toughest day we have had yet, the narrow wheels of the handcarts ploughing deeply in the sand, and we [were] sweating like mules to pull them over the bluffs. We break a wagon wheel today. We camp at Buffalo Creek very much used up.

[Hobbs] Left in good time and traveled in the burning sun [ten] miles over sand hills. Camped near to Buffalo Creek. One wagon broke.

[Magleby] A very heavy, sandy road. One wagon was broken, and we camped early. Bacon was distributed to twenty-five persons.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey about seven o’clock in the morning and had hard pulling over the sand hills. The Indians who wanted to purchase one of my girls assisted me to pull my handcart over the sand about three miles. We camped on the Platte River, having traveled ten miles.

Tuesday, July 12, 1859 (day 34)

[McIntyre] We try again this morning but find it very difficult to get along among the sand. It is hard work to walk without anything and much progress. We manage seven miles and at Wolf Springs we camp for the night.

[Hobbs] Left rather late and traveled some nine or ten miles over large sand hills, and very trying it was to many of the Saints. We crossed over two or three creeks, namely [blank]. Camped near to the Platte River in good spirits but very tired. Got good water. The guard that was on at three a.m. said they heard the shouting of Indians and ringing of bells and thought they had stampeded some cattle belonging to the Californians.

[Magleby] A very heavy road.

[Nilsson] We traveled nine miles, having good roads in the forepart of the day but traveled over heavy sand hill in the afternoon.

Wednesday, July 13, 1859 (day 35)

[McIntyre] Once more we try again with the hope of getting on to good roads and are not disappointed, for in the afternoon we came on to a beautiful plain and an excellent road. We are often amused reading the writings in pencil on the bleached bones that lie by the roadside. All kinds of correspondence from those who are on the road before us as “July 1st 1859 Captain [James] Brown passed here, all well,” and notes very useful and some marked with great bitterness against Brigham [Young]. Camp at Rattlesnake River.[30] Travel today twelve miles.

[Hobbs] Left at seven a.m. and traveled eight miles through heavy sand and stubble. The sweat ran profusely down their face, arms, and through their dresses. I think I never experienced it so warm before.

[Magleby] A very heavy road. Had to wade across several creeks.

[Nilsson] We left our encampment at 7:30 a.m. and traveled over a heavy, sandy road during the forepart of the day; found the road somewhat better in the afternoon. We traveled fifteen miles during the day and camped near the river.

Thursday, July 14, 1859 (day 36)

[McIntyre] We start at seven a.m. Cross over a few creeks, contend with sand, meet a few Indians, perspire a little, and camp at Camp Creek.[31] Traveled fifteen miles.

[Hobbs] Traveled some fifteen miles, weather excessively warm and close. In passing over some of the creeks we had to take off our shoes, and when on the sand it was so very hot that we could scarcely endure the heat and consequently were very pleased when we got our shoes on again. This day we had considerable of sand to travel through, etc. Plenty of mosquitoes to tickle us up at night.

[Magleby] A very heavy rain. Camped for noon, and in the evening received flour for six days.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at seven o’clock in the morning and traveled over fairly good roads. We passed a number of springs running out from some of the limestone hills. Traveled during the day about sixteen miles. In the evening each person in the camp received seven cups of flour for seven days.

Friday, July 15, 1859 (day 37)

[McIntyre] Start early, encounter a high sand bluff,[32] which is very difficult. Here we meet ten wagons of returning emigrants from the [Salt Lake] valley. Sister Hardie has charge of the children saved from the Mountain Meadow Massacre.[33] A thunderstorm today.

[Hobbs] Traveled six miles. Had one or two creeks to pass through and the heaviest sand hill we have had to surmount on the journey. Met a train of apostates. They were very civil with us. We also saw lots of Indians with their tents attached to their horses. Had a heavy thunderstorm in the afternoon, and what fun it was to see the folks rushing to their handcarts for protection. It continued for some length of time. Sent a few words to mother in Sister [Ellen] Gyde’s[34] letter. Caught a few fish and repaired our broken handcart. Mosquitoes rather troublesome tonight. We should have traveled further but the cattle required rest. One by the name of Richins told me some of the Cheltenham [England] Saints lived in the Fourth Ward; he seems quite a decent young fellow, though returning with apostates, but he says he is going to bring out some of his friends in the States. He says we shall find the roads and mountains much more difficult to ascend than the sand hills have been and that there was means enough in the Perpetual Emigrating Fund[35] to take us through comfortable without breaking our constitution. He spoke well of Salt Lake [City] and of the [Church] authorities.

[Magleby] Traveled over the heaviest sand dikes that we have yet met. We are about one hundred miles east of [Fort] Laramie. I and my handcart tipped over on one of the hills; however, all went well, since we all came together again, when we camped on the other side of the hill, where we remained for the remainder of the day. During the afternoon, a right good rainstorm cooled the hot air. I was somewhat weak while we worked in the sand hills but felt better during the evening. Some distance from us was camped a company of apostates who visited us.

[Nilsson] Starting from camp about six o’clock in the morning we had good roads for about five miles. Then we came to some big sand hills, and after crossing these with much effort we made camp and remained there the rest of the day. We had good water and buffalo chips for fuel. In the afternoon we had a heavy thunderstorm. Here we met a small company of apostates going back to the States. Day’s journey, eight miles.

Saturday, July 16, 1859 (day 38)

[McIntyre] A fine morning and good roads. We travel eight miles and camp for dinner by a well; these wells are often found on the way where there are no springs or running water. Some very good water is found by digging about eight or ten feet. We meet here a [wagon] train of California emigrants. They inform us that they have left a lame cow behind which we could have if we went back for it. Thinking that nothing should be lost, a few of us go back and find that the Indians had shot her and scampered off as soon as they saw us coming. She was not quite dead, so the lot fell upon me to put an end to her miseries. As I presented the pistol to her head, she gave me a very sympathetic look, which rather turned me, or the pistol, for it snapped so. I did not try it a second time. All we brought of [it] into camp was the hide, which we found very useful for the sore feet of our cattle.

[Hobbs] Left soon after six a.m. and pursued our journey through sand but mostly on a good hard road. Pulled our carts through one big creek. Traveled on some two miles to a spring opposite to where the Mormons used to ford across, not far from Ash Hollow.[36] Today I found some small particles of gold, which came out of a well where there was sand. It seems from report that the whole region of country round about was impregnated with gold, if the folks could but find the big lumps. Today it has been warm but a good breeze stirring. We have been camping at the springs several hours, and both cattle and people have had quite a rest. Sister [Ann] Rowley[37] gave me some potatoes this afternoon, which is very acceptable. Picked a little fat hen and boiled it for dinner. It was quite a change for the system after having so much dry food. Some Indians in camp this afternoon. Burgess Company going to California overtook us today while in camp. At night a cow was brought into camp which was left by the Californians. The camp was detained from traveling six miles on this account. Some were displeased. Captain [George] Rowley wanted the skin for the oxen’s feet. In the morning the meat was divided among the Saints, but it was scarcely fit to eat. The Scandinavians would not have any.

[Magleby] Better road. Some gold diggers who had been in our company gave us a cow that had been killed by the Indians. The English portion of the company went after it and divided it among themselves, as the Scandinavians did not wish any of it. During the night double watchers were set because of fear of the Indians.

[Nilsson] We left camp at seven o’clock a.m. Traveled about eight miles and halted for dinner. We were ready to resume the journey about four o’clock p.m., but as the company had left behind a sick cow and some of the English Saints went back to slaughter her in order to get some fresh meat, we had to lay over all day. A number of the English Saints expressed dissatisfaction at the slow progress we were making, as our provisions were getting low. We therefore asked the captain [George Rowley] to make better use of the time.

Sunday, July 17, 1859 (day 39)

[McIntyre] Sabbath morning, but it makes no difference; we must travel.[38] We set out at six a.m. and travel six miles over good roads. Arrive at Castle Creek[39] and rest for the day. A large [wagon] train camps near us. We also meet two brethren from the [Salt Lake] valley. In the evening we have a meeting and receive some useful information and counsel from the captains of tens.

[Hobbs] Left early and traveled six miles to [Castle] Creek and camped for the day. Had a good meeting in the evening. The captains of ten and Captain [George] Rowley addressed the meeting. Quite a lot of strangers present. I spoke on the first principles [of the gospel].

[Magleby] Traveled six miles and camped for the day and held meeting. We camped near a camp of California immigrants. Some apostates passed us today.

[Nilsson] The camp was aroused early in the morning. Some of the English Saints offered some of the meat from the sick cow to the Scandinavians, but we refused it, as we wanted to be on the road. We only traveled six miles during the day. At six p.m. a meeting was held in camp. We had some strangers in camp traveling with two wagons from Utah and some Californians. We were told to push ahead and make good use of our time, as our provisions were getting very light.

Monday, July 18, 1859 (day 40)

[McIntyre] We start early this morning rejoicing in good roads. In order to get to water we go off the road two miles. We pursue our journey a little farther and camp at Sandy Bluff,[40] eighteen miles west of Castle River. Traveled today eighteen miles. Our number of invalids today is thirty.

[Hobbs] Traveled eighteen miles. Went several miles out of our road, altogether twenty-one miles. We were informed that two wolves had attacked one of our company. Lots of the boys shouldered their guns but soon found out that it was all a hoax. At night Brother [George] Rowley spoke about so many going for milk[41] to Mr. Burgess’s camp and hoped for the future none would go but those who were invited. He spoke to the shame of the guard who went to sleep instead of minding their cattle and strictly charging them never to do so again. He spoke some on stealing and grumbling. Said if any were hungry to go to him and he would not turn them away empty. Went on guard till twelve p.m. A heavy storm of rain in the night, which wet the most of our things, but we took no hurt.

[Magleby] A very pleasant journey. Traveled eighteen to twenty miles.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at seven o’clock in the morning and traveled over good roads most of the day. Turning to the left to go down to the river to make our noon halt, we passed through some very heavy grass for a distance of two miles. After dinner we followed the North Platte all day and camped on its banks in the evening after a day’s journey of eighteen miles.

Tuesday, July 19, 1859 (day 41)

[McIntyre] At half past nine we are again on the road, everything favorable for traveling. Arrive at Shoal Creek and take dinner. Harness up again, travel seven miles further, and camp by the riverside. A train of three wagons of malcontents from Salt Lake City are camped here. Of course, everything is wrong in Salt Lake City. Mormonism in England is quite another thing.

Our folks are always very fond of interviewing all strangers, especially those from Salt Lake City. One of our Scotch sisters asked them if there were any of her country folks with them. No, says one bristling up, Scotsmen and Irishmen will do anything for Mormonism, but noble sons and daughters of England will not be trampled on. They believed Mormonism was true but the [Church] authorities were acting unrighteously and the Lord would soon come out of his hiding place and scourge them. They had gone to the [Salt Lake] valley with handcarts as we were doing and were returning with a very fine outfit, a very good evidence of their prosperity while there.

[Hobbs] Traveled till one a.m. and camped two hours for dinner. Some hard pulling today. Went in our dinner hour and dug some turfs and turned the water off to catch some fish but had to move on with the camp just as our experiment was nigh accomplished, so of course we lost the fish. Traveled eighteen miles.

[Magleby] A very pleasant journey. A little rain. Camped by the side of a little company from Salt Lake.

[Nilsson] We left our encampment at seven o’clock in the morning; traveled during the day nineteen miles over good roads and camped by the river for the night. Our fuel was all buffalo chips.

Wednesday, July 20, 1859 (day 42)

[McIntyre] At seven a.m. we are again on the pull. I am assisted at my cart by three young girls, one English, one Welsh, and the other Scotch. For pulling, the Scotch lassie could beat the others and was a team of herself; her name was Agnes Birrell.[42] The Welsh girl, Anne Lewis,[43] was subject to fainting spells, which was very awkward in traveling, as I had occasionally to let go the cart to catch her from falling. The English girl, Sarah Tuffley,[44] was quiet and did not care whether the cart came along or not.

We drag through sand and then roll over good roads. We make a halt to look at some very curious bluffs resembling fortifications and old castles.[45] We take dinner by the side of the river.

There surely must be a stampede of apostate Mormons from the [Salt Lake] valley, for here we meet another of that stamp here on their way back to England. The flock of sheep are still in advance of us a few miles. One of our boys picked up one today. Camped by the riverside.

[Hobbs] Traveled till dinnertime and then had some flour served out, enough for seven days. We went to examine some ruins, and I discovered a sheep. We chased him to the ruins and caught him and very acceptable it was too. Traveled over some rough road and made fourteen miles. Camped by the Platte River. Had some rain during the night but managed to get our rest. Had a handcart race with the Danish and beat them.

[Magleby] The road took us over some sand hills. Camped for noon. Received flour for seven days. Continued during the afternoon on our way. Had prayer meeting in the evening.

[Nilsson] Resuming our journey at six o’clock in the morning, we traveled over some big sand hills, and at ten o’clock a.m. we stopped for dinner at a place where we found good grass for the oxen. Provisions were distributed for seven days. (Seven-pint cups of flour for each person and nothing else.) We traveled during the day fifteen miles over heavy, sandy roads and camped near the river. For several days while traveling along the Platte [River] our fuel has consisted almost exclusively of buffalo chips.

Thursday, July 21, 1859 (day 43)

[McIntyre] We start at seven a.m. A spirit of grumbling takes hold of a few of the Saints because they think they have more to pull along on their cart than others. We are before Court House Rock[46] and about twenty miles east of Chimney Rock[47] when Sister [Jane] Harris is delivered of a son [Charles Harris][48] at quarter to three p.m. Mother and child doing well.

[Hobbs] Traveled eleven or twelve miles. Some rough road. Camped on account of Sister [Jane] Harris being delivered of a son; his name is [Charles Harris]. Saw Chimney Rock on the other side of the Platte [River].

[Magleby] Broke camp early. Had a heavy road. Camped at noon. Had to remain in camp because of children.

[Nilsson] Commencing our journey at eight o’clock a.m., we traveled over good roads about ten miles and camped for dinner on the riverbank. Here the grass was good for the cattle. A little after dinner Mrs. [Jane] Harris gave birth to a son [Charles Harris], in consequence of which we had to lay over until the next day.

Friday, July 22, 1859 (day 44)

[McIntyre] We start at eleven a.m. [and] pass over a sand bluff. Travel sixteen miles and camp near Chimney Rock.

[Hobbs] Traveled sixteen miles and camped opposite Chimney Rock. Had a good deal of rain in the night; some got wet.

[Magleby] Good weather and a good road. Camped at five o’clock on the other side of the river in mountains and in sight of a river. In the mountains we saw a high rock like a chimney.

[Nilsson] We started late (about ten a.m.) and pulled our handcarts over some sandy roads. Traveled about twelve miles and camped near the river opposite the landmark known as Chimney Rock. We had rain and thunder in the night.

Saturday, July 23, 1859 (day 45)

[McIntyre] We resume our journey at eight a.m. Travel twelve miles and take dinner by the river. Start again at four [p.m.] and make five miles and [camp] near the river four miles east of Scotts Bluff.[49]

[Hobbs] Left a little after eight a.m. and traveled eleven or twelve miles at a desperate rate. Brother [Charles] Mann was sick and so was my wife [Jane Hobbs]. Sister [Clara] Bartlett kindly offered her assistance, and it was thankfully received. May the Lord bless her for her generous disposition. Brother [George] Rowley hurried us on today when I was doing my best to keep up. This went against the grain rather, but all right. Saw some lovely mountains [Scotts Bluff] near to Chimney Rock. I like the appearance of them better than anything I have seen on the route. An Indian or two about today. Quite a number of Pike’s Peakers passed us on horseback today. We continued our travels and went altogether nineteen or twenty miles.

[Magleby] A good road. A company from California passed us.

[Nilsson] We left our encampment at seven o’clock in the morning. Traveled over good roads and stopped about two hours for dinner and then traveled until we had made seventeen miles during the day. We camped for the night near the river. Fuel tonight was very scarce, as the buffalo chips were all wet with the rain.

Sunday, July 24, 1859 (day 46)

[McIntyre] Sabbath morning, but we must travel and get off these plains before our provisions give out. We meet eleven wagons of apostates from Utah. They find no particular fault with the [Salt Lake] valley; they seem to have done remarkably well, as they seemed to show from their display of fine [live]stock they had along with them. We have a very interesting fellowship meeting in the evening and enjoy a goodly portion of the Holy Spirit. The Saints feel well.

[Hobbs] Traveled fourteen miles, hard pulling most of the way. Camp stayed for Jarvis’s nephew [Thomas Jarvis Kirkman].[50] Had it not been for this delay, we should have traveled farther. Passed a [wagon] train of apostates camped a little this side Scotts Bluff. Some of the boys are shooting ducks. Went on guard till twelve o’clock. The three brethren, namely [William] Jarvis, [William] Adams, [Mark] Lindsey, sent in search of the young man returned between eleven and twelve. They would have been lost had we not kept a good fire, which they saw some miles off. The lad came in before them. Had a good testimony meeting in the evening. Peter Later said one preventative against apostasy was to attend to prayers night and morning. [George] Rowley said the Saints never went out under more favorable circumstances and yet there was more grumbling, and that he would like to have bread till we reached the [Salt Lake] valley and that would be more than any other handcart company had done.

[Magleby] Continued. The road took us close to the river, where a company of apostates met us. We traveled twelve miles and camped a little after noon.

[Nilsson] Resuming our journey at seven o’clock a.m., we traveled over good roads all forenoon, and after stopping for dinner we passed a little mountain on the opposite side of the river called Scotts Bluffs. We followed a small stream all the afternoon, traveling a distance of five miles and made camp. Day’s journey fourteen miles.

Monday, July 25, 1859 (day 47)

[McIntyre] A cold, wet morning, but as soon as we commence traveling it fairs and everything goes favorable with us. Camp by the side of the river. Here we are blessed with timber again, a great relief from the “buffalo chip” system. Still, we are very grateful for these sweet-smelling things, for how could we have cooked without them? Travel today nineteen miles.

[Hobbs] Traveled twenty miles. Passed an Indian camp at night. Henry Hartley gave me and Jane [Hobbs] the privilege of sleeping in his wagon.

[Magleby] A pleasant journey of about twenty miles. We passed an Indian camp.

[Nilsson] We left our encampment at nine o’clock a.m.; traveled over good roads, part of the way with our carts on the trot. During the day we traveled twenty miles, passed a big Indian camp, and camped for the night by the river, where we had both wood and water.

Tuesday, July 26, 1859 (day 48)

[McIntyre] At seven [a.m.] we are again on the road, sometimes on good roads and again among sand. Camp near the river three miles west of Rawhide Creek.[51]

[Hobbs] Left at quarter after seven a.m. Camped a long way from the Platte River. Weather very warm. Some few rabbits caught. Heavy sand to travel through.

[Magleby] A heavy road. Passed two solitary tents, which I suppose belonged to traders with Indians. During the evening received flour for seven days. A captain from a little gold digger company came to our camp hunting for a valise[52] he had lost three weeks before. Our captain [George Rowley] got out one which I had found about the same time back, which the stranger recognized as his and asked for the person who had found it. I was called forth and explained where and when I had found it. He then gave me $5.00, since he was very glad to have found it again uninjured. It contained expensive things. The $5.00 were very welcome to me.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at seven o’clock a.m. and traveled over a sandy road. After traveling seventeen miles we encamped for the night on the bank of the river. Here we had plenty of wood and water. We also received seven pounds of for seven days.

Wednesday, July 27, 1859 (day 49)

[McIntyre] Very warm and soft, sandy roads for six miles. Camp near Fort Laramie.[53] Two of our boys are dispatched to the fort to trade for a wagon wheel to fill the place of the one which was broken on the eleventh [of July]. On their way there they found one in the river which answered the purpose very well. Thomas Jarvis [Kirkman], aged twenty-one from Manchester, England, left us to go with some Gentile emigrants to Pike’s Peak.

[Hobbs] Traveled eight miles through deep sand. Camped opposite Fort Laramie. Three springs of good water close to our camp.

[Magleby] Broke camp early. Traveled eight miles. This brought us right across from [Fort] Laramie, where we camped for a rest. Most of the members of the company busied themselves with baking, washing, and fishing.

[Nilsson] We resumed our journey at nine thirty a.m., traveled six miles, and arrived at Fort Laramie. The captain [George Rowley] went over to the fort to get a wheel for one of our old wagons, and we remained in camp all day. Laramie is a government post, and here were several stores. We secured a wagon wheel and prepared for a start the next morning.

Notes

[1] Mattes, Great Platte River Road, 167, 193–94.

[2] Mattes, “Council Bluffs Road,” 193.

[3] See Henry Hobbs, diary, May 19, 1859, herein.

[4] Carl Ubbelohde, “Colorado,” in New Encyclopedia of the American West, 241.

[5] Rodman W. Paul, “Gold and Silver Rushes,” in New Encyclopedia of the American West, 436.

[6] “Health of the City. Arrival,” Deseret News, June 29, 1859, 4.

[7] “Health of the City. Emigrants,” Deseret News, June 29, 1859, 4.

[8] For example, see Henry Hobbs, diary, June 1, July 4, and July 9, 1859, herein.

[9] For example, see McIntyre, July 27, 1859; and Hobbs, July 28, 1859, both herein.

[10] Kimball, Historic Sites and Markers, 5–7.

[11] Buffalo Creek (Nebraska) is about 228¼ miles from Florence, 802¾ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 50–51.

[12] An animal with four feet.

[13] A well-known tribe of the Great Plains. In the eighteenth century, they began to use horses. In the nineteenth century, the Lakota had become the biggest band of the Sioux, and they lived an equestrian, nomadic lifestyle. Euro-American settlers viewed the Sioux as an intimidating nation, and skirmishes between the Sioux and white pioneers at Fort Laramie began in the 1850s. Guy Gibbon, “Sioux,” in Encyclopedia of the Great Plains, 601–2.

[14] Ornamental or decorative accessories.

[15] See “From the Plains,” Deseret News, August 10, 1859, 8.

[16] The Pawnee Indians have lived on the Great Plains for centuries. By the 1850s, they faced intense challenges from diseases, from Lakota raids, and from white settlements depleting their sources of plants and bison. David J. Wishart, “Pawnees,” in Encyclopedia of the Great Plains, 590–91.

[17] The ancient written language of the Egyptians, generally used to inscribe monuments. Hieratic, an abbreviated Egyptian language form, was used when writing on papyri. The Joseph Smith Papyri, which were translated and featured in the Pearl of Great Price, were written mostly in hieratic, with the exceptions of Joseph Smith Papyrus I and III, which are scripted in hieroglyphics. Michael D. Rhodes, “Hieroglyphics,” in Largey, Pearl of Great Price Reference Companion, 160.

[18] A booklet first compiled and printed by Apostle Franklin D. Richards in England in 1851 that contained “a choice selection from the revelations, translations, and narrations of Joseph Smith.” Three decades later, in 1880, this publication of the British Mission was canonized (with some changes) as one of the Church’s standard works of scripture as the Pearl of Great Price. Kent P. Jackson, “The Pearl of Great Price: An Overview and Introduction,” in Largey, Pearl of Great Price Reference Companion, 1–4.

[19] Generally an oval-frame dwelling constructed of brushwood and grasses. Nomadic Indians in the American West and Southwest often used this design.

[20] The Eighth Handcart Company had departed from Florence near the Missouri River on June 9, twenty-five days earlier.

[21] Elna Johansson (1792–1859), FamilySearch–KWJF-1RP. See “Appendix 3: Eighth Handcart Company Roster,” in this volume; hereafter Appendix 3.

[22] This likely refers to the Low Sandy Bluffs (Nebraska), which was a set of bluffs about 275¾ miles from Florence, 755¼ miles to Salt Lake City. “Extending for miles, they come down to the river six times, forming the most difficult portion of the Mormon Trail in Nebraska,” says Stanley B. Kimball in Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 50–51.

[23] Anders Johan Johansson (1827–1909), FamilySearch–KWJC-B7X. See Appendix 3.

[24] Debilitating diarrhea, often caused by contaminated food, polluted water, and/or poor hygiene, which would often lead to gastrointestinal infections.

[25] Peter Later (1835–1903), FamilySearch–KWJW-9WT. See Appendix 3.

[26] This likely refers to Sandy Bluffs (Nebraska), which is about 322¼ miles from Florence, 708¾ miles to Salt Lake City. From this point forward, “the bluffs became increasingly difficult to travel.” Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 52–53.

[27] The gray wolf, also known as the timber wolf or lobo, can stand up to three feet high at the shoulder. Overland emigrants sometimes confused wolves with coyotes, which are smaller animals. Victor H. Cahalane, “Wolf,” in New Encyclopedia of the American West, 1226.

[28] Between 1856 and 1859, a number of deserters or “apostates” from The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints determined to leave their religion and Utah. Historian Polly Aird chronicles their reasoning: “Some went to California with its riches in gold, soil, and climate. Sometimes they left because of the hardships of pioneer life, individual maladjustment, or homesickness for family and friends. Often it was because they lost their faith, objected to polygamy, or opposed Brigham Young’s theocracy. . . . The reasons disaffected Mormons gave fall generally into seven categories: seeking a better life, disillusionment with various aspects of life in Utah, resistance to lack of freedom of thought, dislike of polygamy, loss of confidence in Church leaders, the Mountain Meadows Massacre, and fear.” “‘You Nasty Apostates, Clear Out,’” 131, 152.

[29] A stupid or absurd person.

[30] Rattlesnake Creek (Nebraska), likely today’s Whitetail Creek, is about 352½ miles from Florence, 678½ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55.

[31] Camp Creek (Nebraska) is about 363¾ miles from Florence, 667¼ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55.

[32] The west foot of Sandy Bluffs (Nebraska) is about 370¼ miles from Florence, 660¾ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55.

[33] The Mountain Meadows Massacre is the darkest chapter in Latter-day Saint history. Historian Richard E. Turley Jr. recounts how “on September 11, 1857, some 50 to 60 local militiamen in southern Utah, aided by American Indian allies, massacred about 120 emigrants who were traveling by wagon to California. The horrific crime, which spared only 17 children age six and under, occurred in a highland valley called the Mountain Meadows, roughly 35 miles southwest of Cedar City. . . . The 17 spared children, considered ‘too young to tell tales,’ were adopted by local families. Government officials retrieved the children in 1859 and returned them to family members in Arkansas. The massacre snuffed out some 120 lives and immeasurably affected the lives of the surviving children and other relatives of the victims.” “Mountain Meadows Massacre,” 14, 20.

[34] Ellen Gyde (1837–1871), FamilySearch–KWJW-WX6. See Appendix 2.

[35] The Perpetual Emigrating Fund (PEF) was established by Latter-day Saint leaders in 1849 to help indigent immigrants make their way to gather with their fellow Church members in Utah. About half of all Latter-day Saint immigrants to Zion drew upon the PEF’s monetary resources until it was dissolved in 1887 by the federal government’s Edmunds-Tucker Act, which disincorporated the Church. Fred E. Woods, “Perpetual Emigrating Fund,” in Encyclopedia of Latter-day Saint History, 910. Many of the Eighth Handcart Company pioneers were beneficiaries of the PEF.

[36] Ash Hollow (Nebraska) is about 380¾ miles from Florence, 650¼ miles to Salt Lake City. It was a popular and beautiful camping ground on the Oregon Trail. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55. Merrill Mattes explains:

Ash Hollow is a picturesque wooded canyon in Garden County, Nebraska, three miles southeast of Lewellen. . . . Covered wagon emigrants entered Ash Hollow without benefit of engineering, taking nature as they found it, and so were compelled to take different approaches, made hair-raising and memorable by the most rugged terrain they had yet encountered. . . . Ash Hollow is in a class by itself. It is the widest and deepest of draws or canyons converging on the Platte or any branch thereof. In country otherwise devoid of noteworthy features, Ash Hollow, with its high white cliffs, flower beds, oasis-like patches of trees and shrubbery, and beneficent clear springs, is an outright marvel.

Great Platte River Road, 281–82.

[37] Ann Brown Rowley (1827–1904), FamilySearch–KWV3-B74. See Appendix 3.

[38] In December 1856, the First Presidency in Utah had issued their Fourteenth General Epistle, which admonished incoming Latter-day Saint overlanders to “move every day, even if it is but a few miles; that is far better than tarrying in one camping place.—On the Sabbath, after meeting and resting during a portion of the day, it will generally be better to make a short march. Move on every day, if you wish to accomplish your journey in due season.” “Fourteenth General Epistle, December 1856,” in Neilson and Waite, Settling the Valley, 262. Latter-day Saint pioneers generally preferred to rest on Sundays unless necessity and conditions required otherwise; see Neilson and Waite, Settling the Valley.

[39] Castle Creek (Nebraska) is about 383¾ miles from Florence, 647¼ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55.

[40] The east foot of Sandy Bluffs (Nebraska) is about 400¾ miles from Florence, 630¼ miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 54–55.

[41] “Milk and liquor were two additional items of emigrant interchange in almost all travel years,” historian John Unruh explains. “Overlanders were always eager to secure fresh milk from emigrants trailing cows westward. One 1850 overlander reported that for a small price butter was regularly available along the trail.” Plains Across, 147–48.

[42] Agnes Birrell (1841–1879), FamilySearch–KWN2-7LP. See Appendix 3.

[43] Anne Lewis (1837–1898), FamilySearch–GSMR-N6B. See Appendix 3.

[44] Sarah Ann Tuffley (1837–1872), FamilySearch–KWVH-Q5V. See Appendix 3.

[45] Ancient Bluff Ruins (Nebraska) was about 419 miles from Florence, 612 miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 56–57. Mattes explains that “between Oshkosh and Broadwater in western Nebraska were the Ancient Bluff Ruins, scarcely equal in grandeur or distinction to the Chimney or Scott’s Bluffs, but still a curious set of formations which the north-siders could brag about on their own. Here they camped for a spell, did their chores, prayed, were threatened by rattlesnakes, and clambered about to get the great panoramic view westward and the first glimpse of the amazing Chimney Rock, about forty miles away, a shimmering needle on the horizon.” Great Platte River Road, 133.

[46] Court House Rock (Nebraska) was about 419 miles from Florence, 612 miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 56–57. According to Mattes,

Court House Rock—which was just plain ‘the Court House’ to most emigrants—has three primary claims to distinction in Trail history: (1) it marked a crossroads, or junction point, of the transcontinental trail system, for here two major routes merged, the Oregon-California migration road through Ash Hollow and the later freighting and military road from Julesburg, thus fusing again into one truck route the trains that had split off at the South Platte fords; (2) it was the dramatic introduction to a chain of picturesque bluffs along the North Platte which were considered among the scenic wonders of the West, on a larger scale of magnitude than Ash Hollow and its neighboring Castle Bluffs; (3) Court House Rock itself was a strange illusion, a magic trick that seemed to change shape and size on nearer approach and from different angles, leading to a bewildering variety of descriptions, often contradictory, and a confusing number of alternate names.

Great Platte River Road, 339. See also “Courthouse Rock Historic Site,” in Kimball, Historic Sites and Markers, 151.

[47] Chimney Rock (Nebraska) was about 452½ miles from Florence, 578½ miles from Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 56­–57. Mattes explains the importance of this particular rock formation:

‘Chimney Rocks’ are commonplace on topographical maps of the United States. Easily the most illustrious of all these natural chimneys, however, is the one on the south side of the North Platte River, which was a landmark for travelers on the Great Platte River Road. This was no ordinary landmark. More enthusiasm and more diary space was devoted to this particular landmark than to any other of the covered wagon migration. . . . In covered wagon days this was the ultimate in natural curiosities, the zenith of sight-seeing goals. To emigrants, Chimney Rock was indeed the eighth wonder of the world.

Great Platte River Road, 378. See also “Chimney Rock State Historical Site/Markers,” in Kimball, Historic Sites and Markers, 124–25.

[48] Charles Edwin Harris (1859–1938), FamilySearch–KWCD-BTK. See Appendix 3.

[49] Scotts Bluff (Nebraska) was about 472 miles from Florence, 559 miles from Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 56–57. “While the towering Chimney Rock was perhaps more wondrous because of its incredible isolated spire, the Scotts Bluffs scenery generally was considered the most magnificent the emigrants had seen,” writes Mattes. “Most covered wagon emigrants fell in love with Scotts Bluff. If they had been delighted with Ash Hollow and dazzled with Chimney Rock, they were held in thrall of at least two days’ travel by the magic quality and infinite variety of these ‘hanging gardens.’” Great Platte River Road, 421–22. See also “Scotts Bluff National Monument and Museum,” in Kimball, Historic Sites and Markers, 125.

[50] Thomas Jarvis Kirkman (1837–1898), FamilySearch–KWNJ-PGS. See Appendix 3.

[51] Rawhide Creek (Wyoming) was about 510 miles from Florence, 521 miles to Salt Lake City. It was an early trading post for furs, especially beaver pelts and buffalo hides. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 56–58; Urbanek, Wyoming Place Names, 164.

[52] A suitcase or small piece of luggage.

[53] Fort Laramie, originally Fort William (Wyoming), was about 522 miles from Florence, 509 miles to Salt Lake City. Clayton, Latter-day Saints’ Emigrants’ Guide, 60–61. According to Obridge Allen’s guide, “This fort is situated on the Laramie river one mile above its mouth, if too high to ford cross on the bridge one mile east of the fort; sutler’s store, blacksmith shop and post office, at the fort; there are two roads at this point, one known as the Black Hill road and the other as the river road, represented on the map, take the river road.” Guide Book, 62. See also “Fort Laramie Historic Site,” in Kimball, Historic Sites and Markers, 77–78.